Super Exhaust Tips!
Check These Out!!!
I like them a lot.
3" tips for truck exhaust and a little welding, and presto! p.s. I also put the muffler back in....so it is not as loud as it was at the gathering. the sound is good. has the echo effect similar to on the truck.
New LED lighting strips!
I have had success passing the wife test on these led light strips. Now it seems I must make her a set now. Each set contains 5 super bright LEDs. They are hermetically sealed and small enough to put into tight spots. Each strip also independently operates on 12 VDC, no light motor boxes or similar equipment required. Simply fuse the entire kit to 1 AMP.
The Pictured Bike has 6 strips used. 2 on front rim under fender, 2 under the gas tank, 1 on each side, and finally one on each side of the rear fender between the chrome guard and fender.
additional brightness can be obtained by using more strips. The power consumption is so low, it is not even a consideration when adding strips to the bike, unless you intend to cover the entire surface of the bike with strips..
My camera does not work in the dark, so I had to take the picture with the flash, but you can tell the lights are definitely in the shot.
New Volt Meter Project.
Volt Meter 2.0!
Meter is now Self adjusting to brightness
The improved design now accommodates changes between light and dark conditions!
This meter is an accurate meter with 1/2 volt resolution. Each led is independently driven. The meter is easily interpreted, yellow is the entire normal charging range, red is either low or high voltage depending on which end of the scale it is on. the leds sweep up like the hand of a gauge to indicate the amount.
Meter is completely water proof and vibration proof.
2.0 current: unit should be key controlled, as if parked in direct sunlight the current use by the meter will be at 150 ma, and over days can drain the battery. of course it also is less than 10 ma in the dark.
The silver finish blends extremely well with the instrument cluster. The unit's lights are actually red and yellow (i would use green, but the light specs are better with the yellow. I can get green if you must have it.)
The tape shown is not a connection, but a decorative and protective strain relief feature so you can hide the wire behind the headlight without notice. I have flattened the bottom of the unit for a more secure bottom mounting. velcro strip is included for mounting.
I cant guarantee total cosmetic perfection. each unit is hand made and some blemishes may occur. Nothing I would consider a usability diminishing flaw, or appearance "too bad to use myself" will leave here though. These units are completely sand able and re-paint able if you want to do a "perfect" job. also units can be requested non painted. I am a better electronics Tech. than a body man, lol....
copy of current instruction sheet available here:
Trunk with Padded Back Rest
The trunk lid is hinged. The Front is padded with Memory Foam1 inch thick. The trunk is attached via 2 hat hooks attached to the center of each side. Bungee cords strap it down for easy removal to ride a passenger. These also double as helmet hooks for quick helmet storage. Lid has chains to hold it safely, should it flip up during a ride. Fund this nice chrome lock to go on the side of the lid. can open and close with out a key, but can be locked if desired. This also gave me the idea for a platform to mount a car stereo to my bike??
My VN750:
This is my bike when I bought it, it has changed in part thanks to the new group on yahoo, the vn750 group and coming up, www.vn750.com
My Seat Modification:
Has anyone noticed how the stock seat seems
to harden after a few years? No its not you butt, it is caused by a collapse
of the original foam pad. 
To remedy this situation, and perhaps Improve the overall feel of the seat, I am experimenting with Memory Foam in my and my wife's seats.
After
putting the cover back on, You will notice how plump the seat looks now, I guess
I created it in my own image, lol....But seriously, I hope it turns out to be
as comfortable in the field, ummmm road, as it looks.
Update on seat, it is a total success as of this point, several thousand miles later and i am pleased with the results. the only down point is the foam is hard on cold mornings, but quickly diminishes as the bike warms up. this is a procedure that i would recommend for any aging stock seat.
Muffler Mods AGAIN.......
Here is an alternative to Plain De-Goating Your
bike.
It is a Standard De-Goating with one difference. There is a hole cut into the side of each added pipe of the original Pre Muffler removal kit, about the size of a quarter. It is not on the bikes original pipes. Then a piece of the same size pipe as the exhaust original pipe is welded across making a standard H type dual exhaust. This gives the exhaust an expansion chamber made effective by the pipe on the opposite side, and also 2 escape routes instead of just one, as only one cylinder needs to aspirate at a time. This make the sound much less "poppy" than before with a nice deep rumble tone. I believe it may even bring back some, if not all the performance lost due to the de goat. It should be regulator friendly because the pipe is running under the flat part of the swing arm and radiant heat will be shielded by this. The pipe has a much smaller surface area than the goat belly did and you still reap the heat reduction benefits. After doing it, would I do it again,,,YES!! I love the new sound, and it is a bit quieter and smoother as well.
This is another muffler mod, to improve deep bass tone of your ride. drill holes as shown in rear.- and it does NOT sound like a lawnmower as somebody has commented in the past, perhaps they did not drill big enough holes? hole size does matter.
Coffee Grinder Clutch Problem---UPDATE:
I have put over 18k miles on the new EBC Kevlar plates and springs without any clutch issues at all. I have heard of some issues returning from another member, but i don't know what plates they used. I do not believe changing to different oils is a proper fix for the growling sounds, but rather recommend this simple 1 hour job that can easily be done without an engine pull.
Description: It has been said in our files that uneven or poor spring pressure is responsible for the "walrus" like sound when you take off, usually when motor hasn't fully warmed up.
Here are some pictures of my clutch, that had a severe case, as it would do it a little even after several miles of driving. would cease after about 20 minutes though.
This is the clutch hub, the shiny spots are not reflections, they indicate the areas where the pressure was greatest, the other dull areas had the factory crosshatch plaining, so it looks like there was little pressure there.
This is an example of the corresponding plate:
This is an example of testing my patience being the tightwad I am, cutting my own gasket..
Repairs after replacement of dampers, and JB weld of case, and machining down flat, so original gasket can still be used for a seal. notice the JB weld isn't just an external plug in the hole, but also is around 3/16 inch thick surrounding the damaged area on the inside to provide a double barrier oil seal.
1.
remove balancer.
2. clean thoroughly with oil based de greaser of some sort. i used kerosene to bath away the grindings, then some contact cleaner to remove the kerosene for the jb weld to stick good.
3. use a dremel tool to grind away any paint
and roughen the surfaces inside the case.
4.jb kwik paddy out a flat area inside the
case covering the hole and slightly extending out past the normal edge of the
case and also past the broken area to form an inner "shelf" and let
harden. may have to apply in several small steps to build it out.
when the inside seems finished, don't worry if the balancer don't fit yet.
5. repeat steps 3 and 4 on the outside of the case. dremel some of the jb kwik as well.
6. after you have let the jb kwik harden overnight, use the balancer as a guide to grind out just enough the balancer will not touch the repair,
7. use the new outer case as a guide, use dremel to get the repair mating surface down close, then you can plane it down with a wide flat file. when done right, the surface of the jb kwik should mate up to the new outside cover.
you can see my pictures as a guide on my site.
8. put on a new gasket using some blue rtv
as a gasket sealer, especially in the repaired area. let dry overnight before
putting in oil.
Driving light, mono light, 55 watt. relay control, off in low beam. off when bike not running.
Cam Spring Tension er Modification .....Prevents slip, and tension loss, and best of all, its free, and easy to do. (the hard part is getting the tension er apart and back together)
Update: the springs i modified in this way have performed well in my wife's bike for several thousand miles and have shown no ill effects. I did hear of a member of the group doing this and the spring later broke, however I am not certain how much bend was put on the spring, and if it was bent back afterward, which is certainly going to cause failure, so remember-only bend once, do not "unbend" then re-bend.
Permanent Kickstand Plate:
This
is a plate of steel, notched in the corner to prevent injury to leg, welded
to the bottom of my kickstand. For most instances, it is sufficient to prevent
sinking, and most of all, it will not get lost somewhere!! For those interested
in doing this, you may want to get a couple of buddies over to lean the bike
down until the peg touches the ground-before the plate you installed does for
safety reasons.
Update:- this little item has been a real good item for me, it does not sink in pavement like the original and does not get in my way while riding or mounting/dis mounting.
NOT bike related: Sub woofer I built. 5 foot long, 2 feet tall, 18 inch 1000Watt Driver. Band pass at 20 HZ. operating on 250 watt RMS commercial amplifier. nice on home theater experience. Had one persons child say, "How come the whole house is shaking?"
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