A JOURNEY TO 2.0 G MHz
WELCOME TO MY ATTEMPT TO REACH 2.0G MHz WITH ONLY WATER
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Well this is my site I am documenting my journey I hope to 2.0 g MHz
on an AMD platform.
Well I guess a little bit about me:
Well about 3 years ago I go to building PC's. My first was a 366 MHz celeron on an abit. Well I got it up to
458 MHz thought I had the fastest PC around. 6 months later I had to go faster. So I saved up enough
money to start a new system. Next I built a PC with a 550 pentuim iii clocked to 825 MHz geforce video
card I was ahead again. For a short while. Sometimes Jan 2001 I started planing my next PC. This time I
jumped the fence and went AMD . Damn about time. Well I studied hard until I decided on a 1.0g avia
chip. Well this baby would run, and still is. Right now that PC is running beside be 1540 MHz water cooled.
On an abit k7ta raid. Here is a pic.
well hell I was ahead for a while.
well hell I was ahead for a while.But like always am looking for more!!!!!!!!!
Well first thing I was going to start with this time is my cooling system. I decided on building the most efficient cooling system
ever. Well the first thing I started with was the water pump. I chose a mag 7 pump, Hell 700 gallons per hour should do.
I know some of you think overkill, but not. You might think water moving too fast doesn't allow enough time to cool or pick up
heat but just wait. I built engines for fast cars and I know all the tales, but just cause the pump can pump 700 gal, doesn't
mean I am going to try to use all of it. In one place. If you have heard of people using these pumps they will complain about
the rattle they make. Some people are gluing the impeller so to make them quite. But they only covering up the problem.
These pumps rattle because of not enough flow though the system. But no one makes a water block that will flow enough.
So you must make the whole system flow fast enough to use the extra water.
For this problem I used a bypass line. All automotive engines use some type of bypass hose, the reason is to divert the
extra water that can not pass though the cylinder head to other area's to be cooled. See a cylinder head must slow the
water down by restriction, so giving enough time to remove the heat. But with out a bypass the rest of the engine would
have to wait for water to pass though the head. This would cause a heating problem. The water block is like the head of
an engine. Water must pass though fast but just slow enough to pick up heat. I place a bypass before the water block and
connect it to the other side. Thus letting water that cannot pass though the water block (excess water flow) the go around
and keep going on to the radiator. To help even more with the cooling. Please note this only applies if you use a high flow
pump like the mag 7. I made use of my bypass by using the extra water to cool my chip set.
these are some of the pics of the water manifold with my bypass.
Now my next thing was the radiator
I wasn't going to waste my money online. There are some good radiator's out there like the big momma. But mine is bigger
and BETTER !!!!!
Here's a look.
Specs are all copper and brass 6.1 inches wide 11.5 inches tall 2.0 inches thick WOW!
With 5/8 OD fitting. Can we all say no restriction's and I get full use of the 5/8 tubbing as you will see later.
Well next I have to do a little mod to danger den maze 2. This is the best water block I have tested yet. But I am waiting on
a new block to test, the spiral made by fixxitt. Could be the best of all time. Damn from what I can tell it should be very efficient.
I removed the stock fitting and took some 1/2 " OD hard copper pipe and tapped it 1/4 pipe and put a small radius on the inlet.
I had a real good time getting all this in my case but this is what it looked like with this much done.
As you can see I ran it four 24 hours just to check for leaks and to remove all the air.
If you look at the rear of the case you will see a pair of gate valves. This was originally put in for my R12 cooled chillier.
But I was so impressed with my water cooling system, that after testing my system at 1725 MHz 2.2 volts max. temp
would only reach 36 degrees Celsius at load and at 26 degrees ambient room temp. But I have them if I need to hook
my chillier.
The two fans you see in the front are 120 mm 117 cfm 110 volt each. That is 214 cfm though that radiator, but pushing ,
not sucking. I know that is not as efficient but I have no more room in my case for them. So I installed 2 120 mm fans
on the outside of my case. I sealed the front grille between the fan's and the radiator, and the radiator is about 1" from
the fans so I don't have any dead spots of air passing through the radiator. Also I am sure some of you have already
noticed the heat sinks on my mag water pump. Ha Ha I bet most people don't know this pump puts a lot of heat.
You have two options let the water pull out the heat or they like me try to remove it with air. My Raytec thermal gun
says the back of the mag pump was 57 degrees Celsius. WOW THAT IS HOT !!!
While 24 hours of testing for leaks I found that the water temp had reached about 35 degrees. This test was ran with just the radiator water block and mag pump. I realized I need to do something. So I installed the heat sinks, Dropped the temps down better. I ended
up with water temp about 30 degrees. Ambient was 27 degrees by the way. I can live with that. Also my fans were off
by the way. When I switched on my fans the temp dropped to ambient temp within 30 to 45 seconds. NOT TO BAD.