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10th February, 2001

Chengde Palace Of Seven Storeys On A Cold Day. Exposed Roots Of Pine Trees In Yellow Earth. Clean Air And Sunlight At Palace Top.

December, 1994
Chengde palaces are just like palaces in other Chinese cities, or so I thought, until Chang said she was taking us to see the Dahongtai Palace, up in the mountains. I did not know what to expect as we walked through the tall arch at the entrance to the estate, but the sun was shining,Three arch gate. so everything looked attractive. We came to the first set of steps, clearly in need of repair work, but they seemed in character with the exposed roots of the pine trees in the yellow earth, and ahead of us was an attractive three arch entrance gate. The gate had relief carvings of dragons and lotus flowers, but the colors of the walls had faded.

Even when we got to the gate, there was no hint of what we would see later. Most of the white colored buildings around us had a box like appearance, and had flat roofs, as had been the first gate we had passed through,Dahongtai Palace front. except that on the roof of the first gate stood five ornamental pagodas, all of different shapes and designs, which we were told represented sects of Lamaism. We continued our walk up the bare earth track, to be passed by sedan carriers jogging along with their passengers, on their way to the palace. Chang wanted me to ride in one, but I felt safer with my feet firmly on the ground, although the carriers looked strong and capable. When we arrived at the palace, it looked quite spectacular in the sunlight, its seven storeys towering above us, even though patches of the color had peeled and the building looked somewhat neglected. It had survived the ravages of the Cultural Revolution, but the restoration of the palace to its former glory, could only be made as funds became available. There were yet more magnificient views to be seen at the top of the palace.

View from palace top towards gate.It would have been quite surprising had there been lifts to get to the top, but in their absence we used a series of flights of stone steps, some much worn. Inside the palace, three storey buildings fronted a square, and on its top were halls and pavilions, the Han architecture being more ornate than the Tibetan style of the palace itself and the simple but elegant buildings we had passed during our walk. The elevated position of the palace enjoyed bright clean air, but the distant entrance gates were shrouded in mist. The view to the entrance was one of walkways and buildings, but other eye level views of mountain peaks, rolling away into the distance showed the imagination and thought given to the choice of location. It was an almost perfect setting.

If you are interested in other Chengde topics, such as...
Chengde Street Life On A Winter's Day... then just click them !