One of my objectives on this vacation was to ignore all things space
related. Unfortunately, as you will see if you read through the entire
account, I did not succeed very well. But it was entirely for reasons
beyond my control!
24/12/99
Yesterday I left Strasbourg at 14:40, changed to the Eurostar channel
tunnel train in Paris, and then to the Caledonian sleeper in London and
arrived in Edinburgh about 7:00 this morning. In spite of having a bed
to sleep in, I was not able to sleep very well. But I was fairly lucky,
in that I was able to find a place in a youth hostel just a few blocks
from the train station. It was called the Castle Rock Youth Hostel, and
was directly behind the Edinburgh castle.
Since I had no idea of what there was in Edinburgh, I took a bus tour.
There was a LOT of churches there, and one of the interesting things is
that as a new congregation or whatever would come along, it would take
over the old church and force the established congregation to build a
new church. At the top of the Royal Mile there are at least three churches
literally within a stone's throw of each other. The most adorable one
was in a little hollow with the castle on the top of one mountain and
some ultra-modern buildings on the other. There was one fairly long
street that had statues at every intersection, and one of them was the
guy that introduced the idea of income tax. BOOH! Unfortunately it was
really hard to get pictures from the top of a moving bus,
so afterwards
I tried walking the route of the bus tour. From behind the statue of
George IV it was possible to look down the hill and see the Firth of
Forth. It was also while walking around that I came to the conclusion
that Scotland has real mountains- something I've been missing in France!
I found the University of Edinburgh and got someone who was standing
around to take a picture of me in front of the building they use for
graduation.
But I was unable to find my way back to one statue that I
really wanted a picture of, so I got back on the bus, and then got off
when it reached Hollyrood house. "Rood" is an old word for "cross," and
an abbey had originally been on the sight because it was thought that
someone had brought part of the cross used for Jesus there. And there
were pictures and statues and other depictions of lions and unicorns
all over the place which had Lewis Carol's poem running through my head
all day. Then I tried to locate the LDS chapel in Edinburgh, but got
lost and could not find the street. On my way back to the hostel, I heard
bagpipes, and when I came to the corner, there was a guy in full dress. That
evening I called home, not wanting to try and get through on Christmas
day, and wanting to send Christmas greetings on to my brothers in
Germany and Japan when they called home on Christmas day. My roommates
in Edinburgh were Shanon, Mindy, & Becky- all from Australia; and this
is where my wish to avoid all things space related for the duration of
my vacation first failed- the walls of our room were plastered with
Ewan McGregor (Obi-Wan Kenobi in SW:TPM) pictures.
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25/12/99
My roommates are Catholics, and I went along with them to midnight mass.
It was very strange, but at least I got to hear the Christmas story from
Luke 2. It loses something in modern English, though, as compared to the
English used in the KJV. And I got to sing Christmas carols. After, I
read the account from 3 Nephi and went to sleep. When we woke up in the
morning, we had a new roommate, Tamara, and there were stockings hanging
from the bunks, with candy & oranges in them. There was also another sock
stuffed inside, but mine were mismatched! Then I had to go find an ATM so
I could pay for Christmas dinner at the hostel. It took a while, though,
cause I couldn't get at the one in the train station, and hadn't bothered
to locate another one beforehand. There was still a couple of hours
before dinner, so I went for a walk to kill time. I tried to make it down
to the Firth of Forth, but it's farther than it looks and I didn't make
it. Dinner consisted of potato soup, a choice of either turkey & ham or
a vegetarian dish, and a choice of pudding or pie for dessert. It kind
of seemed like being in an orphanage, so many young people crowded in
one room. I had the vegetarian dish, which was kind of like a cheese
tortilla, and the pie. It is called banofie pie, and is kind of like a
banana cream pie with caramel. In between each course, a guy played
Christmas carols on bagpipes and we sang along and made a lot of noise
with the noisemakers. At my table were Laura and Erin from Africa, and
Sam and Zane from Scotland.
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26/12/99
This morning I got up early to catch the first train from Edinburgh to
Aberdeen, but the train stations was still closed. So I went looking for
the bus station and found it just as some workers were arriving. There
was a bus to Aberdeen in the morning and several in the afternoon, so I
figured I might be able to make it to church after all. I called the
church, but there was no answer, & since I had no idea how to get there
on my own, I went ahead and took the first bus. To get to Aberdeen, I had
to change busses in Perth, and for most of the way after that I could
see the ocean. It seems I have been missing the ocean almost as much as
I have been missing real mountains! Once I reached Aberdeen, I called the
chapel there, but again, no answer, so I headed for the hostel. The directions
I got weren't very good, so I found a phone book, and got better directions
which involved taking a bus. In the process, I found out that if I had kept
going, I would have found it anyways! Once I got settled, I wanted to go
see something, so I checked the info-guide and found out the the art museum
was open on Sundays, & was free, so I headed there. Turned out, it was
closed for the holidays, so I headed back to the hostel. On the way, I
discovered an ice skating rink that was just opening (they were waiting
for it to get cold enough & the ice solid enough!). So I skated for a
couple of hours. It was fun, but this was the first time I really wished
I had someone with me to share the experience with. The rink was in Bon
Accord Park, and Aberdeen is called the City of Bon Accord. By the time
I left off skating, it was getting late, so I went back to the hostel,
and hung out in the kitchen for a while to meet some more people. There
was more people from Australia who had also come from Edinburgh today,
and people from Oregon, and of course more people from Scotland.
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27/12/99
Today breakfast was included in the price of the room at the hostel, so
after eating, I walked down to the shore. It was very pretty, especially
with the sun just up. I think people swim in the ocean in summer. Off on
the horizon, there was a white thing that was either a ship or an oil
rig. And on the other side were two light houses. Those were tricky to
get a picture of because the sun was just barely up and practically right
behind one of them. I hope it turns out okay. Then I went looking for
things to see, but everything was closed for the holidays. I made it back
to the hostel just in time to check out, so I was able to go on to
Inverness, and was able to make reservations for the hostels both there
and in Glasgow.
The bus ride to Inverness was frustrating because it seemed like every 30
minutes or so I saw a sign for something that I really wanted to see.
Usually it was a castle, for there is a castle route that starts in
Aberdeen. Too bad I didn't find out about it till after I left. But now
I know what to do when I come back, & I am definately coming back to
Scotland at some point when I can take my time and see everything.
After reaching Inverness, I gathered the information I would need over
the next couple of days- what tours were available, where to rent a bike,
etc. I got dinner from a fish-&-chips take-away shop, some kind of chicken
and mushroom pie that was quite good. Afterwards, I went on a "terror
tour" of the city led by an authentic 18th century ghost. I was joined
by two girls from New Zealand, and we tormented the ghost almost as much
as he was trying to scare us. Inverness is supposedly the most haunted
city in the British Isles, what with all the torture and stuff that has
happened there. The true story on which "Jekyll and Hyde" is based
occurred here, and I guy from Inverness once was kidnapped in Aberdeen,
taken to America, scalped, and returned to make a lot of money off it.
And of course there were the witch hunts & rebellions & wars.
28/12/99
Today I rented a bike and rode out to Culloden Moor. The location of the
last battle between the Jacobites and the British government, it is about
6 miles from Inverness- a nice little bike ride. Especially since it is
uphill on the way out and downhill on the way back. It took place in 1746,
and I thought it quite funny that it was the very tactics that allowed
the British government troops to win this battle got them slaughtered
some 30 years later in the American Revolution. I did not know it was a
civil & religious war, with the Lowland Scotts (Protestants) fighting
the Catholic Highlanders. The stupid thing about it was that the Highlanders
chose the battleground, and their best tactic was of no use on it!
It's no wonder the British were so confident in the superiority of their
tactics when the Americans rebelled!
One interesting thing was that the commander of the British government
troops trained his men to strike not at the person in front of them, but
the one to the right, where they were not sheilded by their targe.
One of the displays was a small hut called a fermtoune with a mock-up of
what a battle-field surgeons operating theatre was like at the time. It
was very crude- a soldier was lucky to just lose a limb. The battlefield
itself is just a bunch of bushes with yellow flags marking the line of
the British government troops and red flags marking the line of the
Jacobites.
With several hours of daylight left, I didn't want to just return to
town, so I asked one of the workers what was nearby. The Clava cairns
were about a mile and a half away, in the bottem of a river valley. So I
rode down to them and took some pictures. They were quite interesting.
Cairns are what stone-age people buried their dead in, and these one
were rings, some with passages leading out from the center. When I came
back up the hill, I was quite cold, so I stopped back at the Culloden
visitor's center and got some tomato and pepper soup. Yum! I browsed the
bookstore for a while and found a cookbook of Scottish recipes and some
orange chocolates & some mint chocolates.
I made it back to Inverness just in time to return the bike, then did
some shopping. At first I just window shopped to find out where scarfs
and ties in the various tartans were available and how much they cost.
Then I called home to find out what everybody wanted. They were pretty
much as my mom and I had figured, so I went back to the store and picked
them up. The results of this, and resons for them, can mostly be found
on my Tartans page. For Deanne,
though, I got the Millenium Tartan. This is a special tartan designed by
James Pringle's Weavers to commemerate the new millenium. And for myself
I got a sweater and a kilted skirt. Then I had to repack my bags so
everything would fit, and found out that once again my roommate, Clair,
was from Australia!
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