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TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY.
Name and Boundaries:- There are many conjectures
and traditions regarding the etymology of Ardersier, or, as it
is variously written in the records of the Presbytery of Chanory,
to which it was attached till the year 1773, "'Ardersuir,
Arthursire" and in a map of Moray, from drawings by Sir Robert
Gordon of Straloch, taken in1640, it -is spelt Ardyrsyir. It is
pronounced in Gaelic " Ardnasaor;" which may signify
" the height of the carpenter tradition having preserved
a vague story, that several carpenters were drowned in the ferry,
during the period that the cathedral of Chanory was being built
Although this derivation plausible it may reasonably be supposed
that the parish had a name before this accident befell the craftsmen.
- So far back as the year 1226, in a deed of agreement between
the Bishops of Ross, affecting
this parish, and transcribed in the Registrum Moraviense"
it is written "Ardrosser". This is probably derived
from the Gaelic Ard, high, Ross, a promontory or
peninsula, and iea, west; or the adjunct may be an arbitrary
termination. This interpretation is in consonance with the features
of the parish, which towards its western and northern limits exhibits
a front of verdant hill, at some points 200 feet above the sea.
This hill does not extend to the point of land which juts into
the sea, and which is occupied by Fort-George, but terminates
by a gradual slope within a mile of it, and suggests the idea
that, the cape had been washed away by some early inundation.
The length of the parish, from north-west to south-east, is about
four miles; its breadth upwards of two miles It is bounded on
the north, by the Moray Firth, whose waters also wash its gracefully
winding coast on the west; on the south, by the parish of Pettie,
a narrow cuneiform pendicle of which interposes between part of
its western face, and the bay of Campbelton; and on the east by
the parish of Nairn. Its figure may be compared to that of an
irregular delta.
The northern coast, which stretches upwards of three miles along
the Moray Firth is flat and sandy; varied in some localities with
dunes of blown sand, grown over with Arnophila arundinacea,
(bent,) in others with heathy ridges, clumps of furze, and
patches of gravel. The face of this flat is further diversified
by inconsiderable extents or morass along the ridges; and in some
or die lowest spots, which are scarcely above the level of the
sea, by expanses of water hardly deserving the name of lochs,
though one of them is called Lietchfield loch, and the other Lochineghtac.
The landscape loses somewhat of its wildness towards the eastern
boundary of the parish, where, in the carse, some small farms
are cultivated; not, however with uniform success, as the drifting
sands make occasional inroads On this coast, upwards of a mile
east from Fort-George, a sand bank, called Whiteness-head, juts
in an oblique direction far into the firth, and, being only seen
at low water, renders the navigation dangerous.
The western coast extends with a curved outline nearly two miles
along the margin of a picturesque bay, its level and smoothly
pebbled beach forming a commodious bathing-place.
From the top of the hill already noticed, a plain of cultivated
land extends backwards towards the confines or Nairn, terminating
in pasture or heath, and towards the south in a moss whence peats
are obtained.
Meteorology:-
No regular register
of the temperature, nor of the pressure of the atmosphere, is
kept in the parish. Nor has any been kept in the neighbourhood
for a sufficient number of years to furnish the annual average.
At the manse of Pettie, (a distance of four miles,) which is not
so exposed as the higher parts of this parish, and not so sheltered
as the lower grounds around Campbelton, and which, in consequence,
enjoys the average cli-mate of the district, a register of temperature
has been kept for the last few years from the commencement of
seed-time till the end of harvest; and occasionally, if any great
deviation from the average temperature of the season took place,
during the winter months. From that register, I find that during
the severe snow-storm in January last, when birds were said to
have been found frozen to the branches of trees in different parts
of Scotland, the lowest temperature was on the night of the 8th,
when the thermometer fell to 10 degrees. During that day its highest
indication was 22 degrees. The lowest temperature in March was
on the 8th, 37 degrees, the highest on the 16th, 62 degrees.
Of the observations during the four following months, the result
is as follows:-
April. May. June. July.
Highest on Highest on Highest on Highest on
28th 64. 20th, 20th, 74. 10th, 72. 25th, 72.
Lowest on Lowest on Lowest on Lowest on
2nd 16th 36 3rd 32. 16th, 41 9th, 46
Av. max. 51.8 Av. max. 60.03 Av. max. 60.37 Av. Max 57.25
Av. min.38.6 Av. min. 45.5 Av. min. 48.7 Av. min. 50.81
Rain on 13 Rain on 7 Rain on 13 Rain on 21
days&quantity 2.1196 d. &qu. 1.2800 d. & qu. 2.611O
d. & qu. 3.8663
In 1840 was 0.38266 In I840, 2.8256 In 1840 1.6700 In 1840
2.1280
In the register from which the above
is taken, it is remarked that the ash trees before the manse were
not so expanded in leaf on the 10th June 1840, as on the 28th
May 1841; also that a brood or fully fledged starlings was seen
in the church-yard on the 5th June.
Among the prognostics of the weather there is one which is pretty
generally known, and very frequently correct. When the Ross-shire
hills are seen very distinctly in the morning, coming rain is
foretold; when a haze or dry mistiness renders these hills or
any distant object less distinct, a dry day is indicated. Darwin,
in his Zoonomia, somewhat fancifully explains this atmospheric
phenomenon on the principle, that the increase or transparency,
by filling the pores with fluid, is seen by soaking white paper
in oil, which, from an opaque, becomes a transparent body.
The atmosphere is dry and salubrious. As illustrating in some
measure the salubrity of the climate, we may mention the following
fact, for which we are indebted to the Rev. Mr Campbell of Croy,
to whom the parties were well known. About forty years ago, there
were living in the parish fourteen individuals, ten males, and
four females, whose respective ages at the time of their death,
(and the last of them lived till about six years ago,) were as
follows: one 106 years, one 104, one 103; these three were Chelsea
pensioners; one 100, two 98, one 98, two 94, one 92, two, 90,
and two 88. The rains of spring and autumn readily percolate through
the shingly and porous subsoil which characterizes the lower parts
of die parish, between which and the higher part there is a well
marked climatic difference. While the upper part exposed to storms
from the east and north, the village of Campbelton, from the shelter
of tile line of hill which rises behind it like a screen, enjoys
an almost perfect immunity. On the 26th June 1826, the thermometer
indicated 84 degrees in the village, while on the height, from
the fanning effect of a light sea breeze, it did not exceed 82
degrees. In cold weather, the difference is more marked. The weather
in spring is rather variable, one day, or a succession of days,
may simulate the genial warmth of summer, and be abruptly followed
by the chilling vigour of winter. We have no endemic disease.
As the prevalent distempers of the district, rheumatism, erysipelas,
and catarrhal affections may be instanced.
In estimating the influences which act upon organized beings in
the production or modification of disease, other agencies than
atmospheric or miasmatic must be taken into account. Thus, the
vicissitudes of the circulation produced by hard labour and exposure
to cold, irregular and in-nutrient meals, and the use of ardent
spirits, operate in producing disease, or begetting a susceptibility
to it. Erysipelas is certainly a common affection in the district.
All cutaneous diseases, however, (not even excepting the national
opprobrium,) are made to personate it by the indiscriminating
rustics. Derangement of the functions of the skin, from inattention
to ablution, may contribute to the frequency of this exanthem.
Hydrography: - The Moray Frith washes the northern coast of the parish, and an extension of it, which, to the south of Fort-George, acquires the name of the Frith or Beauly, forms a bay on the western shore, which, from the bold and picturesque contour of the hills on the opposite coast of Ross-shire, presents a beautiful landscape. From the hill behind Campbelton, there issues in a continuous jet, a strongly chalybeate spring, which has deservedly acquired a high character as a tonic, and is frequented by nervous, dyspeptic, and cachectic invalids.
Geology:-
There is not an exposed
rock in the parish. Two or three small size boulders of gneiss
occur within the high water-mark. The terrace or line of hill
which skirts the western and northern coasts, shows its alluvial
origin from the alternate strata from sand and clay observable
in exposed sections. No sea shells have been found in this ridge.
Along the coast there are manifest impressions of geological changes.
On the west, the sea has, at a remote period, made considerable
encroachments. Peat is found several hundred yards within the
high-water mark, under a layer of sand of about a foot in thickness.
From the agency of successive tides and currents, this encroachment
is slowly becoming less, as is evidenced by the beach of loose
shingle thrown up in the course of ages, which extends along the
coast for nearly two miles, and which is in parts upward of a
quarter of a mile in breadth. That the causes which produced this
marine deposit are still in operation, is known by the fact that;
within the last twenty years, the access to the pier at Fort-George
has been completely blocked up by a barrier of this shingly debris.~
The northern coast bears marks of extensive inundation;
Upwards of a mile inland from the present flood mark are distinctly
visible two beaches or shingle or water-worn pebbles, parallel
to each other in their winding outline, and distant from each
other only a few yards. Parts of the reclaimed land have been,
for time immemorial, under tillage. If the inundation happened
within the historical aera, it was probably in the year 1097,
when we are told by Boethius, Buchanan, and other historians,
that the Goodwin estate was overwhelmed by sand, and the lands
of Moray desolated by an inundation of the German Ocean.
In the banks of the rill which divides Ardersier from Flemington,
and which has a channel or some depth, logs of black oak, lying
horizontally, are seen at depths varying from three to five feet
below the surface level. At many points the sides and bottom of
the channel present extensive patches of bog-iron ore.
Zoology:- Quails have been frequently shot in the parish, and starlings have hatched young broods in the neighbourhood. In the winter months, the coast is frequented by flocks of aquatic fowl. Barnacle, sheldrake, teal, and widgeon are the frequent prey of sportsmen. And some of the rarer species, as the red-breasted merganser (Mergus serrator,) have been shot in the bay, or shell-Ash, the cockle (Cardium edule,) which abounds in the sea sands, deserves notice. They are gathered in quantities by the fisher girls, and conveyed to the Inverness market; and they afford a savoury variety to the humble repast of the poorer classes, whose children are sent to collect them. Muscles and periwinkles are also common on the coast. At one locality, some hundred yards from the shore. and about eighteen inches beneath the surface of the sea sands, a mass of sandstone with a mixture of carbonate of lime, and enclosing innumerable fossil shells, all of existing species. is discoverable. The shells seem to be in different stages of fossilization, the texture of the stone being softer near the surface.
Botany:-
The flora of the parish does not comprehend any very rare species
or plants. The maiden-pink (Dianthus deltoides) has a locality
on Cromal mount, as has likewise the Myosotis colina, (a
plant rare in this neighbourhood.) That magnificent aquatic, the
white water lily, (Nymphoea alba,) grows in gorgeous profusion
in Lochinegtac. The surface of this miniature lake is Iiterally
obscured by the plentiful display of this splendid flower. Of
the other plants found in the parish, the following, as not being
very generally distributed, may be mentioned:
Agrirnonta eupatoria, Erythraea littoralis, Reseda luteola,
Astragalus hypoglottis, Fumaria capreolata, Rhinanthus major,
Cakile maritimum, Hyacinthus nonscriptus, Senecio viscosus,
Centaurea scabiosa, Knautia arvensis, Solidago virgaurea, Chenopodium
maritimum, Lithospermum maritimum, Saxifraga granulata, Drosera
Anglica, Malva rotundifolia, Vicia sylvatica, Echium vulgare,
Primula vulgaris.
The Erythraea Littoralis is much extolled by
the country people as a tonic; it is rather a pleasant bitter.
The shores abound in marine vegetation. Many species of the order
Algae, mixed with Zostera, are driven ashore in great quantities
by the surge, and are readily gathered and used as manure. Dulse
(Halymenia palmata) is found on the north coast; and laver
(Ulva umbilicalis and Ulva Lactuca) is likewise
found on the black scalp. It is known by the people as slake
kail and is considered, when dressed, good in consumption
and scrofula. From the fact that iodine is obtained from this
class of sea-weeds, this opinion is not unfounded. Irrespective
of its sanative virtues, the laver is sought after as a delicacy.
Another of the Algae, the Carragheen moss, is found
on the shore, and is an economic substitute for isinglass. The
Cynosurus cristatus is very common in pastures and
waste places. We have seen a bonnet made of this grass, in appearance
and quality much resembling the Leghorn or Tuscan, which was plaited
under the direction of a lady at Fort-George. It is called in
Ireland, Traleen grass.
CIVIL HISTORY.
Of the early history of the
parish not much is known. A considerable part of Ardersier belonged
to the diocese of Ross. Among the documents in Cawdor Castle is
a disposition dated 1574, "of the lands and barony of Ardersier,
fishings of salmon, and other fishings whatsoever; Over Brouster
house and Nether Brouster House, with their crofts and
pertinents, and the croft commonly called Fisher's croft, by Robert
Lesly, brother of David, Bishop of Ross, and commendator of the
monastery of Cambuskenneth, with consent of the Dean and Chapter
of Ross, in favour of John Campbell of Calder," (now Cawdor.)
Earl Cawdor still pays L. 67 Scots to the crown, as bishop's rent.
"The Knights-Templar had some lands in Ardersier and a jurisdiction
of regality." "This order came to Scotland
in the reign of David I., who endowed it with many lands, uncommon
privileges, and valuable exemptions; and these were all confirmed
by successive kings, and allowed by several popes. Sir James Sandilands,
who was the last preceptor of this order obtained, by a grant
from Queen Mary in 1563; the remaining estates or his order, as
a temporal barony, on paying 10,000 crowns. Sir James died as
Lord Torphichen in 1618. This explains how Lord Torpichen
became possessed of lands in this parish. These lands were
sold by Lord Torpichen to Mr. Thomas Rollock, advocate;
and by the latter gentleman disponed to John Campbell, younger
of Calder, by deed dated 13th August 1626, as" the temple
lands of Ardersier the temple-lands of Overcruick and Overbank
of Ardersier, lying in the diocese of Ross and sheriffdom of Inverness."
" In 1023, John Dow Campbell of Calder had all his lands
in the north, by a charter under the Great Seal, erected into
a barony, called the Burgh of Campbelton, with power to create
bailees, constables, sergeants, and other officers; liberty to
have a town-house, and a market cross, a weekly market on Wednesday,-and
a fair to begin on July 15th, and to hold eight days, and that
all infeftments may be taken at the Castle of Calder."
We find in Pitcairn's Criminal Trials or Scotland, that this parish
was honoured in 1508 by the transit of King James IV. in one of
his pilgrimages to the shrine of St Duthoc at Tain, which was
then held in particular sanctity. Among the items of expense on
this journey are the following " October 20, Item, to the
freiris of Ardoseir 18s." " Item, to Robert Mertoune,
for passing ower the water with the goshawk, lOs."
Upwards of two hundred years ago, the Thane of Calder, in proceeding
from Ardersier homewards with his servant, fell from his horse
at Druimadeobhan, and instantly expired. The agency of apoplexy,
or affections of the heart, was then unknown, and the worthy Thane's
death was ascribed to witchcraft. A commission was given to search
for the perpetrator of the foul deed, and suspicion fell on a
withered old woman in the carse, " who looked not like an
inhabitant of the earth!" The necessary marks were discovered,
conviction followed, and the poor creature was burned at a
stake at a place called the Paddock.
At no very remote period, a belief in fairies and their gambols
existed to a degree beyond the credence of the present
age. We would not vouch that some lurking dread or these airy
spirits, who "mislead night wanderers, and bootless, make
the breathless house-wife churn," is not still harboured
by some bustling matrons.
About 1730, according to tradition, a man of the name of Munro
had a sickly atrophied child, which he and his neighbours considered
to be a changeling substituted by the fairies at an unguarded
moment in the place of his own. There is a conical knoll in the
carse, called Torn Eanraic or Henry's knoll, which was
famed as the scene of the moonlight revels of these elves. It
was believed that if the supposed changeling were left overnight
on this hillock, the real child would be found in it's
stead in the morning. The infatuated parent subjected his drooping
and attenuated offspring to this ordeal, and in the morning found
it a corpse.
Eminent Men.-The late Dr John Mackintosh, Lecturer on the Theory
and Practice of Physic in Edinburgh, and author of two volumes
on the " Pathology and Practice of Physic," and of a
monograph on " Puerperal Fever," received the rudiments
or his education in this parish. Major Pryse Gordon, author of
" Personal Memoirs and Reminiscences," and a sketch
of " Holland and Belgium," in two volumes, was born
in the manse, his father, the Rev. Harry Gordon, being then pastor
of the parish. This gentleman, who is in his 80th.
year, lived in habits of intimacy with Professor Porson, Dr Burney,
Mr John Kemble, and Monk Lewis. Major Robert Calder Campbell,
E. I. C. S., son of the late Rev. P. Campbell, is a native of
the parish. Major Campbell is the author of " Lays from the
East," and the " Palmer's last Lesson," and is
an admired contributor to the " Annuals." With considerable
poetical talents; he combines a cultivated taste for music, arid
has published some sets of quadrilles.
In the annuls of a parish which possesses such a fortification
as Fort-George, where breathes all " the pomp and circumstance
of war," it might be expected that the names of some distinguished
officers should appear. Some of the following gentlemen were born
in the parish ; the others received their early education in the
school of Campbelton ; the late admiral Sir Patrick Campbell K.
C. B., and his brother, General (?) Campbell, Governor of Ceylon;
the late General Sir Alexander Caldwell, E. 1. C. S., Colonel
Sir Alexander Anderson, C. B.; Lieutenant-Colonel Duncan Macpherson,
and his brother, the late Captain George Macpherson, R.N.
The whole parish belongs to the Earl or Cawdor, with the exception
of the precinct of the fort, purchased by Government about 1746
Parochial Registers:- The earliest entry is in June 1719; they are regularly kept.
Antiquities:-
The heath near the junction
of the parish of Nairn is an obelisk or " standing stone,"
about 6 feet in height, called the Kebbock-stone, erected, according
to tradition, over the grave of a chief who fell in a skirmish,
the inglorious cause of which originated in a dispute about a
cheese. Another tradition is, that it marks a spot where the Danes
were repulsed. The late Mr. Nimmo of the Inverness Academy, thought
the stone had been placed to mark the boundary between the counties
or Inverness and Nairn.
At Dalyards there were in the beginning of last century fragments
of the ruins of a large building, which tradition reports to have
belonged to the Knights-Templar. Whether the building was a religious
house or a fortalice is uncertain ; probably the latter, as the
enterprize of agriculture has not yet succeeded in obliterating
traces of the fosse with which it was surrounded. Dalyards is
marked in Gordon of Straloch's map or Moray 1640, though a little
out of place. It is now a cultivate field.
There was a Druid circle at Achnuallan,
but the distance from a quarry, and the expense of carrying building
materials, prompted its demolition many years ago. A horn filled
with silver coins was dug up near this circle forty years ago,
but no correct information is preserved of their nation or date.
On the line of hill behind Campbelton, there is a circular mount,
elevated about 20 feet above the surface level of the ridge, and
commanding from its summit a most extensive view, which embraces
parts of seven or eight counties. This mount is called in Gaelic,
Cromal or Tom Mhoit. It is corruptly Anglicised
into Cromwell's Mount. In the " Memorabilia of Inverness"
it is called Cromal, and is included among the British hill-forts
of the county. It is surrounded at the top by a rampart about
five feet high, which, from tho nature of the locality, is of
clay and earth. In its western aspect, the wall is nearly straight;
the area is circular. Its circumference is about 120 yards. The
approach to the fort was from the south-east. The earthen mound
which led to it, has been long ago carried away; the agricultural
eye, which directed its abduction, seeing compost in every thing.
The work of demolition did not end here, for with the raised approach
was excavated a slight section of the rampart. Whilst this does
not materially injure the venerable pile, it has exposed to view
a horizontal layer of small loose stones, on a level with the
area within. At some points these stones exhibit marks of calcination
or decomposition, and fragments of charred wood are found in the
superincumbent earth.
There were, some years ago, on the heath of Ballnagown, two parallel
lines of circular earthen mounds; each tumulus in the rear line,
covering the opening between two tumuli in the front line, and
the distance such that an enemy could not pass between any two,
or break the line with impunity; being within a dart's throw of
each other. Many of these fortlets or enclosures have been carried
away as compost by the small farmers ; and others have been destroyed
or mutilated by the line of road, which passes through the encampment,
but several of them still remain. It is considered of Danish origin.
Danish stone-axes have been found in the neighbourhood. "
At Ardersier, which is situated on the southern shore of the Varar,
twenty-four miles west, south-west from Ptorton (Burghhead), there
were dug up, more than twenty-five years ago, a very curious Roman
sword and the head of a spear." Roy's Military Antiquities
Vol. I. p.88.
Modern Buildings:- Fort-George, a model of a fortress, occupies the limit of the peninsula, called Ardersier Point. The following description of it, from " Anderson's Guide to the Highlands," we adopt, on account of its concise correctness: " It is an irregular polygon, with six bastions, mounting 18 twenty-four, 25 eighteen, 22 twelve, and 4 six pounders, and 4 thirteen-inch mortars. It was founded in 1748, under the direction of General Skinner, who continued director of engineers in Scotland till 1757. The land-front is defended by a ditch, covert way, and glacis, two lunettes and a raveline mounting 8 twelve-pounders. The north and south curtains are casemated, each containing 27 bomb-proof apartments. The grand magazine is bomb-proof, and will hold 2474 barrels of gunpowder. The staff buildings lie towards the land-front, and are occupied by the governor's, lieutenant governor's, engineer officer's and chaplain's quarters; and also by the artillery barracks. The barracks are constructed for 2500 troops. The fort is also provided with a chapel, brew-house, bake-house, and inn, and is supplied with water from eight pump-wells. The draw bridges and main approach form an elegant and imposing piece of workmanship". The staff-officers have gardens on the common A garrison library has lately been established by government, to which the soldiers have access. At the ferry of Fort-George, which connects the eastern part of Inverness with Ross, and the northern counties, the steamers from London and Leith to Inverness land and take in passengers and goods.
POPULATION.
A century ago Ardersier was
so thinly peopled that it was called " the parish or six."
Dr. Webster's return of the population amounted to 428.
By the sensus of the present year it is 1477 This
number includes the garrison.
Yearly average of births for the last seven years, 22.
Marriages. 12.
No register of deaths is kept.
There are two fatuous, one insane, and one blind person in the
parish.
Language:-
The language generally
spoken in the village, which contains three-fourths of the population
of the parish, is English.
In the interior, Gaelic prevails. But, from recent changes in
the lessees of farms, and from the new occupants possessing little
of the Celtic character, it may be fairly stated, that the Gaelic
has lost, and is losing ground. It is a curious circumstance that,
from the year 1757 to 1781, during the ministrations of two incumbents,
no Gaelic was preached in the parish. On the ordination of the
Rev. P. Campbell, in the latter year it was requested by the people,
and agreed to by him, that he should exhort them in the Gaelic
language. Of the prevailing popular customs, one may be mentioned,
to which the pencil of Wilkie has given a kind of classical celebrity-
we allude to penny weddings. These are falling into desuetude,
except among the fishers- a class of people who possess many habits
and many superstitious observances quite peculiar to themselves.
They never intermarry out of their own tribes, and there is an
obvious reason for this on the part of the young men, as no other
females would undertake the laborious out-or-door occupations
to which their wives are subjected. They carry in creels on their
back to great distances immense loads of fish; and they carry
their husbands to and from their boats, when, from the state of
the tide, they cannot get in or out dry-shod. This latter duty
influences the fashion of the costume or the females, which, as
regards their lager garments, is of peculiar brevity. The women
make the nets and bait the lines, and tile fishermen, when not
employed on the vasty deep, do little else than chew tobacco.
They still keep up the system of inviting the surrounding country
to their weddings; and although they are numerously attended,
the company is not so select as it was wont to be in the
olden time, when the synod of Moray in 1640 deemed it necessary
to record a Dispute forbidding " ministers or their wives
to haunt penny bridals." The fishers marry at an early age,
and generally before they acquire the means of furnishing a house
even with the necessary articles. To compensate in some measure
for the deficiency, the custom bf thigging, as it is called,
is adopted by the young wife a few days after marriage. She, accompanied
by her bride's-maid, visits her neighbours and friends, and they
each present her with some little article or house-plenishing.
generally a piece of earthenware usage permitting the visitor
to choose what article she pleases.
From the level nature of the ground between Campbelton and Fort-George,
long bowls is a favourite game in the winter season. Shooting
at the popinjay, which is modernized into a target, is also a
popular amusement about the Christmas holidays. The best marksman
wins the prize, generally some agricultural implement. Each competitor,
before firing, pays a certain sum to the exposer of the prize,
and the rivalry is pursued till the fixed value is realized.
The habits of the people, as regards personal cleanliness, are
certainly improved within the last few years. Even the fishermen,
who, for the purpose of smoking their haddocks, and converting
them into speldings, had their fire-places in the middle of the
room, liberally give unconstrained freedom to the smoke, are now
adopting the luxury of chimneys. Their ancient attachment to the
hog-stye and dunghill, which usually blockaded the entrance to
their houses, if, indeed, these were not sheltered by the same
roof, has received a withering chill; chiefly from the appearance
a few years ago of cholera among them, and from the exertions
of the Board of Health in effecting a drainage of the stagnant
pools, and in removing all nuisances.
With regard to dress, the minute or the synod of Moray,
dated 1624, "discharging ministers within the boundaries
of Inverness presbytery from coming to their meetings of presbytery
in bonnets and plaids," would not now apply to the people,
far less to the clergymen. It is true, the broad flat bonnet worn
by the Moray farmer of last century may still be seen on old men;
and the Glengarry bonnet on young men and boys. But the latter,
as well as the sprinkling of tartan frocks and jackets among children,
and the showy tartan waistcoats worn by young men, are the product
of a more modern mania for the Celtic costume. It is pleasing
to see the endless variety of clan and fancy tartans displayed
in the cloaks and shawls of females.
In estimating the character of the people, it will be necessary
to divide them into three classes-first, the fishers, generally
speaking, a correct and orderly set of people, seldom outraging
the moral duties; rarely associating with persons out of their
own vocation, and generally possessing the necessaries of life
in abundance. It must however, be added, that they
do not appreciate the advantages of education. Next, the Chelsea
pensioners, many of whom are located in the parish, having married
natives when stationed with their regiments in the Fort, and having
been swayed by female influence in the choice of local habitation.
This class, though there are many honourable exceptions, is rather
improvident and intemperate. The third class comprehends the peasantry
and mechanics. From the example of military habits, instances
of dissipation were not Uncommon a short time ago in this class.
But a happy change has been produced; the temperance principle
has been pretty widely adopted, and the external improvement is
already very manifest. Among the seniors of this class, there
are some bright examples of primitive simplicity and sterling
worth.
INDUSTY.
Agriculture:-
There are about 1434
imperial acres in cultivation; 1815 in pasture and heath, of which
last 64 acres have been lately planted with fir and larch by the
proprietor, Earl Cawdor and preparations are in, progress for
extending the plantation considerably. In the Ordnance
lands in the neighbourhood of the fort, there are 216 acres or
gravel and sand, rendered waste by early inundation.
The average rent of arabic land per acre is about 15s. 6d.; the
rent varies from L 2, 2s. to lOs., according to quality and vicinity
to Campbelton. In the immediate neighbourhood of the village,
lands pay L. 3 per acre.
Farms are held on leases or nineteen years, except the village
lands, which are held at will ; the inhabitants occupying them
as a convenience.
Concerning the state of husbandry and improvement, tile Rev. Mr.
Campbell of Croy, a native of the parish, to whom we are indebted
for several facts connected with its early history, writes as
follows " Previous to the year 1780, there was scarcely an
in-closure in the parish. The mode of faming was wretched in the
extreme. The land was scourged by a succession or white crops;
then allowed, with its accumulated weeds, to rest for years, when
it again underwent the same trying process. The crops were of
the poorest description, and many of the cattle, from want of
provender, died in the spring. This ignorance and sloth of the
farmers was of some benefit to the poorer classes; The fields
were productive in nettles, wild spinach, wild mustard, and mugwort,
of which weeds the poor people made a wholesome and savoury mess,
on which they mostly subsisted during the summer; their only approaching
relief being a small patch of bear, generally ripe about the 1st
of August. About this time, Mr Macpherson entered upon the largest
farm in the parish. Of this is gentleman it may be truly said,
that; so long as warm benevolence of heart, disinterested friendship,
and the most conscientious discharge of the all-social duties
are held in esteem, his name and memory will long be dear to the
people of the parish. Mr. MacPherson, knowing the capabilities
of the soil, commenced on the most approved system of husbandry
then known in the north, and in a short time, not only the appearance,
but the very constitution of the farm was changed. The contrast
between the crops under the new and old systems was so apparent,
that the small farmers soon followed the example of their benefactor;
so that now, arid for several years, the poorest tenants labour
their ground after the most approved manner. Before that time,
potatoes were planted in lazy beds, or dibbled in like cabbages.
It ought to be recorded that Mr. Mathews, who farmed the Ordnance
ground, was the first who planted potatoes with the plough in
this part of the kingdom."'
Fisheries:- There are two stake-nets for the capture of salmon on the coast. The rents together amount to L.60 herring fishing is carried on, every season, by the Campbelton fishermen. Eleven boats, each of about twelve tons register, have this summer sailed for the fishing stations at Helmsdale and Burghead. In a successful season, it is a source of considerable profit; each boat taking not infrequently 200 crans or barrels in five or sir weeks. For each cran they are paid from lOs. to l3s. In the white fishing, these fishermen likewise embark; and after supplying the parish with haddock, cod-fish, skate, whiting, flounders, and occasionally turbot, halibut, and sole, they carry the surplus to the Inverness market. For short voyages along the coast in the summer time, the fishermen have sharp-built and fast-sailing yawls. By their industry, till any of these men have been enabled to save some money; but the hazardous nature of their calling, renders highly commendable their present intention of establishing, in conjunction with the fishers or Pettie, a branch of the "Shipwrecked Fishermen and Mariner's Society."
Navigation:- Three vessels, of about 100 tons burthen each, which are employed in the Sunderland trade, belong to a family in the village.
PAROCHIAL ECONOMY.
Campbelton is the only village
and market town in the parish. Inverness is distant ten miles,
and Nairn seven miles. The population of Campbelton proper, according
to the census of the present year, is 730 ; of the back-street,
which, though belonging to the parish of Pettie, is dove-tailed
and connected with it in civil arid municipal interests, 228,
- making in all 958. There is a post-office in the village, and,
besides the mail, two stage-coaches pass daily to the south and
north. The great post-road from Inverness to Aberdeen passes through
the village, as does also the military road form Fort-George to
Perth, projected by General Wade, and begun in 1758. About twenty-four
feuars in Campelton possess votes in the election of a member
of Parliament for the county, and the number of qualifications
may be increased. The County Constabulary Committee have lately
established a policeman ; and the county Prison-Board have, at
a recent meeting, come to the resolution of erecting a
lock-up-house. A small debt court is held every month. There is
no harbour. This is a great desideratum, as, independently of
the usual traffic in coals and lime, the beach is much frequented
as a shipping place for pit-props and other timber from adjacent
properties; as well as for grain from the surrounding country.
A harbour would be a great boon to the fishermen of the village,
a very industrious class of people, who, from their remoteness
from a pier, are precluded from participating in the gratuities
given by the Fishery Board to others of their vocation resident
within a mile of a harbour.
Ecclesiastical state:-
Although Ardersier be now, and very naturally, comprehended within
the bounds of the provincial synod of Moray, yet, for some years
even subsequent to the Revolution, it was connected with the synod
of Ross. Previous to the Reformation, it had belonged to the diocese
of Ross. In what manner it came to be claimed by the Bishop of
Ross, we do not know. Perhaps, previous to the irruption of the
sea at Fort-George, part of Ardersier might have been geographically
more connected with Ross than with Moray: Be this as it may, we
find that both the bishops laid claim to the parish, as pertaining
to their respective sees and that it was necessary, in 1226, to
terminate the dispute by a formal arrangement, according to which
the Bishop of Moray agrees to relinquish his pretensions to Ardersier,
and the Bishop of Ross, to renounce claims which he had advanced
to Kiltarlity, as part of die diocese of Ross. In the chartulary
of Moray, (Charter 75), we have the formal composition of their
differences as to these parishes and the engagement of the Bishop
of Ross to pay to the cathedral of Elgin " unam petram cerae,
pro confraternitate et orationibus et aliis beneflciis ibidein
faciendis habenda." Among the witnesses to this agreement
is the name of Mauritius, who combined in his own person the offices
of "Canon of Rosmarkyn, and parson of Ardrosser." Ardersier
was the seat of the sub-dean of Ross. We find that, after the
Reformation, it was successively attached to the presbyteries
of Ross, Dingwall, and Chanonry, till the year 1707, when it was
connected with the Presbytery or Forres, or the Presbytery of
Inverness, which about the period were divided into two presbyteries
while they had been previously united. In 1711, the records of
Chanonry state that Ardersier is now of this date reunited to
Chanonry. In 1773, Ardersier was, by an act of Assembly, disjoined
from Chanonry, to make part of the newly erected Presbytery of
Nairn, within the synod of Moray, to which it has since continued
to be connected.
The earliest notice of the incumbents of this parish which we
have been able to obtain, is the following, which occurs under
the head"Ministers in Ross" -in the register of ministers,
exhortrs, and readers, and of their stipends 1563-76," printed
for the Mtaitland Club in 1830.
" Ardorsei; Awath, Suddie, Kylmuir, Webster, Ardorsier -
John Smyth, reidar, xxti November 1569. Dischargit sen November
1571, again the same time as the commissionaris writing beris;
. Andro Mlill, minister, je. merkis November 1569, xxti mair sen
November 1571, and for thir twa kirkis xx merkis sen Lambmes 1572.
The vicarage of Awath, extetiding to viijti vijs jd in part of
payment of aforesaid stipend."
Mr. A. S. Allan, Kincardine, to whom we are indebted for the preceding
notice, mentions that in the Advocates' Library, there is an M.S.
roll of the names of the ministers in the Kirk in Scotland, who
refused to submit to Prelacy, and continued steadfast in owning
Presbyterian Government after the re-establishment of Episcopacy
in 1661-1662, in which the name of Mr. John McCulloch at Ardersier
occurs.
In 1686, Mr. John Dallas was Dean of Ross, and parson of Arthursire,
as appears from amortification by the Bishop, Dean, and Chapter
of Ross, given in General Hutton's MS. Collection in die Advocates'
Library.
From another MS. In the same library, entitled "Ane account
of the names of the ministers and parishes in the several synods
and presbyteries of Scotland, at and since the late Revolution,
1689, &c." written in 1711 or 1712, we have this extract:
"Presbytery of Chanonry, Arthursire, Mr John Dallas, Dean
of Ross, outed and deprived by the return of Mr. John McCulloch,
late Presbyterian minister 1697, and upon Mr McCulloch's leaving
the place, Mr. Dallas intruded again, and remained till he died.
Mr. Lachlan McBean, also Episcopal incumbent, intruded then -
afterwards received by the commission, and now (1711 or 1712)
deposed for immorality."
Mr. McBean had been previously settled in 1688, as Episcopal minister
of Calder, but demitted that charge in 1698, and went to Ardersier
as above. He was the last EpiscopaI incumbent of the parish, and
his continuence as such was connived at both in Calder and Ardersier.
Mr. Hugh Campbell, ordained in 1707, translated to Kiltearn in
1708. In the records of the Presbytery of Chanonry is a minute
bearing that the Presbytery, after some trouble with the Laird
of Calder, the sole heritor, of this date ( September 1713,) ordained
Mr. Daniel Beaton minister. In 1717, Mr. Beaton complained that
the stipend being only two chalders of victual, and some small
vicarage tithes, worth 26 pounds Scots, at most, and two pounds
Scots, and no grass, he could not live on this. The same
year he was translated to Rosskeen.
Alexander Falconer, ordained in 1718. In the Chanonry records
are notices of sundry collections made during Mr Falconer's incumbency;
as for the distressed Protestants of Lithuania ; for the French
Protestants ; for the Scots congregation in New York; for a bridge
over The river Dee, by order of the General Assembly; for the
piers at Banff and Aberbrothick. In 1723, Gray of Skiboll, and
Gordon of Garty, were guilty of a violent outrage, and were made
to submit to public discipline in the church or Ardersier and
to pay a fine of L.30. This year Mr. Falconer was translated to
Ferrintosh.
Duncan Macintosh ordained 1729, died in 1786.
James Calder ordained 1737. In 1741, Mr Calder refused an earnest
call to Inverness. In 1747, be had a call from Kilinuir-Wester,
and another from Croy; he accepted the latter. On one of these
occasions, he declines the call on the ground of the inability
of the minister of Sgir an leth dusan, (the parish of the
half-dozen), to discharge the duties of a large parish.
The Laird or Calder presented Mr William Barron, minister
of Ardelach, to Ardersier, but the Presbytery of Forres refused
to translate him. In 1749, he presented Mr. Daniel Brodie. In
1751, the glebe of Ardersier seems to have been removed on account
of the grounds required for the Fort. The following year Mr Brodie
is translated to Calder, on which occasion tire laird wishes
to have Ardersier united to Calder ; but the Presbytery
refuse their consent to the proposed union or the charges. It
was probably from the delay occasioned by the attempt to unite
these parishes, that no minister was settled in Ardersier till
1757, when Mr. Harry Gordon was ordained to the charge. The stipend
at this period hardly amounted to L.l00 a-year, as we are told
by Major Pryse Gordon, son of the incumbent, in his Personal memoirs
and Reminiscences ; but Mr. Gordon was also chaplain to the neighbouring
garrison, for which he received a further remuneration of 15s.
per week. Mr Gordon was succeeded in 1764 by Mr. Walter Morison,
the '' Aristophanes of the North," or. '' the Witty Walter.''
Anecdotes of his wit, humour, and facetiousness, are still current
in the district. From the records of the Presbytery or Nairn,
of date May 13th 1777, we give the following extract '' '"There
was laid before the presbytery petition to the Committee for managing
the Royal Bounty, signed the Lt. Governor, and principal inhabitants
or Fort-George, craving that the Committee would grant a proper
salary to Mr Walter Morrison, minister of Ardersier for encouraging
him to preach in the Fort every Sabbath, at an hour not interfering
with his parish kirk, which petition the Presbytery did highly
approve, and did, and do hereby recommend it to the serious consideration
of the Committee". We quote this minute, to show the activity
evinced in former times, in regard to the provision for a minister
or chaplain in the Fort. At the union of Scotland with England,
it was stipulated that chaplains should be maintained in the three
castles of Edinburgh, Stirling, and Dumbarton. It being considered
unnecessary to continue the chaplaincy at Dumbarton, this situation
was some years ago abolished. But in order to fulfil the act of
Union in spirit, if not in letter, the chaplaincy of Fort-George
was substituted in its room. And yet this chaplaincy has been
dealt with, as if, in maintaining it, a boon to which they had
no claim, was conferred on the garrison. We observe the Presbytery,
of Edinburgh taking steps, in order
to give the chaplain of that castle a seat in the Presbytery.
But the Presbytery of Nairn seems to overlook the fact that the
chaplain of Fort-George has an equal title to a seat in the Presbytery
of Nairn. The situation of chaplain is a very important one, and
should have an adequate provision, instead of the present pittance
allowed by Government. Mr. Pryse Campbell succeeded Mr Morison,
as appears by the following extract from the Presbytery of Nairn
records of date 6th March 1781 " The moderator asked the
people if they had any objection to the presentee ; they replied
they had none, as he agreed to preach in Erse."
In December 1839, Mr John Matheson was ordained assistant and
successor to Mr Campbell. In February 1840, Mr Campbell died at
the advanced age of 86. He was distinguished for cheerfulness
of disposition, liveliness of imagination, and disinterested benevolence.
The parish church is situated in the eastern and interior part
of the parish, and is convenient for the bulk of the population,
three-fourths of which reside in Campbelton, about a mile distant.
It was finished in 1802, and is in a good state of repair. It
affords accommodation for upwards of 500. No seat rents are now
payable. The manse, which is commodious and modern, was built
in 1828. The glebe extends to 17 ares arable, and about five of
pasture It is worth about L. 25. The amount of stipend paid by
Earl Cawdor, is L 117, 15s. 7d., the amount to L 150, is paid
by the Exchequer. At present there is no catechist. There is no
Dissenting or Seceding chapel in the parish. Divine service at
the Established Church is generally well attended. The number
of male communicants is about 30. A Bible society was instituted
at Campbelton fifteen years ago; besides distributing copies of
the Scriptures In both languages, at reduced prices, and gratuitously,
it grants donations of about L.10 annually to other societies.
The average annual amount or church collections is about L.20.
for missionary and other purposes, L.16.
Education:-
Besides the parochial school there are three other schools in
the village of Campbelton; one a private un-endowed school, a
boarding school for females, and an infant school lately built
under the auspices of Lady Anderson. The late Mr. James Denoon
of Rothsay, and Mr James Campbell of Baltimore, were among the
early teachers in the parish school. The late Mr John Smith, for
a period or forty-two years efficiently discharged the duties
of parochial schoolmaster. His school, so long as his physical
powers were adequate to the ardious duties of teaching, was crowded
by scholars from the surrounding district. Of his extensive classical
knowledge and happy manner of communicating the same,
many of his pupils, who have distinguished themselves in the different
learned professions, bear living testimony. Mr Smith was a teacher
in Abernethy and Kirkmichael, for sixteen years before he came
to this parish ; and the Celtic Society, two years before, his
death presented him with a gold medal, in acknowledgement
of his long and meritorious public services.
There is a Sabbath school in the village, which is well attended.
Library:- A Subscription Library, on a small scale, was formed in Campbelton about two years ago, which, it is hoped, may tend to increase the intelligence, and promote the moral improvement of the people.
Charitable and other Institutions.- There are two Friendly Societies, which have existed for nearly forty years. Members procure coals and meal at an easier rate, the societies purchasing these articles with ready money at wholesale prices, and distributing them to the members at prime cost; and the funeral expenses for members or their wives are defrayed by the society. The real advantage of this latter arrangement is questionable, as it encourages drinking at lyke-wakes and funerals, and certainly does not promote a desire for independence. It would be more advantageous if they deposited their earnings in a savings' bank, but as yet there is none in the parish, the nearest, established about two years ago, being in, Inverness.
Poor and Parochial Funds:- The average number of persons receiving parochial and is about 60. From the inadequacy of the church collections to meet the real wants of the poor, private subscriptions were set on foot in the Parish for the last three or four years. L.20 were raised in this way, about two years ago, and Earl Cawdor liberally contributed L.20 more. But, notwithstanding that the annual sum allowed to allowed to each pauper was materially increased by these voluntary contributions, they have been found insufficient to prevent the weekly applications by beggars.
Fairs:- A great annual fair, the "Lammas Market", is held at Campbelton on the I2th of August, being the only fair in the parish, and, its object and advantages being of a varied character, masses of people congregate. Numerous reapers, chiefly females, come from Ross-shire arid the surrounding country, and they are readily hired for the harvest, by farmers from Moray and Nairn-shire, as well as from distant parts of this county. There is usually a good show of lambs from Strathnairn, Stratherrick, and Strathglass, some sheep and milk cows, and a few horses. Wool and homespun plaidings, cheese, and fruits are among the commodities of the country offered for sale.
Inns &c:- Of Inns, ale houses and spirit shops, there are no fewer than ten in the Parish, all in the village of Campbelton Whilst three or four inns for the accommodation of travellers would amply supply all reasonable demands for refreshment, it is too notorious, that, where there are so many competitors, the incitements and facilities offered, and the idle and dissolute habits formed, exert the most baneful influence on the morals, of the people.
Fuel:-
An abundant supply of coals from Sutherland and New-castle is
brought to the beach at Campelton, and is purchased for 15.s per
ton. The carriage front the shore is 10.d. per ton additional.
There are two or three yards where coals are stored,
and sold in the winter at a little increase of price. Peats are
brought front the parish of Cawdor, and other places, in small
carts, and sold at about 1s. 6d. a load. Fire-wood is procured
from the saw-mill at Kilravock and from Cawdor, at a reasonable
rate.
September 1841.