Southern Bohemia
A flood of images and impressions. A world of colours.
Forests scented by pine and mushrooms. Silver-lined rivers
and streams running to parts unknown. Beautiful, picturesque
towns, villages and hideaways. Majestic castles and elegant
chateaus. A landscape enriched by varying natural scenery
and man-made monuments. Paradise for water fowl, fish, fishermen
and lovers of water sports. Locales where history has been made.
Trebon
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The heart of southern Bohemia beats in Ceske Budejovice, the ancient
royal city with many unrivalled buildings and historical monuments.
It was founded in 1265 to fortify the monarch's influence in the
southern region controlled by the powerful aristocratic family,
the Rosenbergs. The city has maintained its royal lustre and charm.
The main city square running 133 meters (approximately 146 yards)
long on each side makes an unforgettable impression. The pure Gothic
and Renaissance style bourgeois homes contrast with the richly
decorated baroque town hall with its three tower facade. Ceske
Budejovice is known not only as an architectural gem, but has also
become a Mecca for admirers of the world renowned Budweiser beer.
If Ceske Budejovice is the heart of southern Bohemia, then its spine
is undoubtedly the Vltava river. Along its banks rest many of the
region's important sights. Upstream and south of Budejovice is the
early Gothic Cistercian monastery Zlata Koruna (Golden Crown). It was
founded in 1263 by King Premysl Otakar II in celebration of the victory
at Kressenbrunn. Zlata Koruna is typical of southern Bohemian Gothic
architecture, its western facade's portal and windows being pure
examples. The magnificence of its chapter hall is emphasised by the
vault's two slender pillars. Among the oldest structures in
good condition is the two-storey Chapel of the Guardian Angels dated
from the end of the l3th century.
Cesky Krumlov
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In a romantic valley between the picturesque curves of the Vltava
river lies one of the most remarkable southern Bohemian cities
- Cesky Krumlov. It is a petrified fairy-tale. Meandering, narrow
lanes. Homes with vaulted gables, bay windows and arches. Strange
towers and turrets. The riches of the Gothic and Renaissance ages.
Gazing down on all this from steep rocks is the exciting silhouette
of the massive castle founded in the mid-l3th century by the
Rosenbergs. During their 300-year reign Cesky Krumlov experienced
its greatest era. In subsequent years building rather stagnated
and hence the city's medieval appearance has been preserved. On
account of its unique and invaluable historical significance,
Cesky Krumlov was placed on the Heritage List of International
Cultural and Natural Sites by UNESCO.
Typical South-Bohemian Village (Holasovice)
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Castles are an ubiquitous part of the southern Bohemian landscape.
Their characteristic moss-covered battlements adorn many hills and
stone walls grow out of hillside rocks. The Rozmberk castle stands
on a narrow rock inlet reflected by the calm depths of the Vltava
since the l3th century. It is the cradle of the large aristocratic
family with the five-petalled rose coat of arms whose power and
wealth competed with that of the Bohemian kings. The bay windows
afford breathtaking views of the charming town and its church. The
exquisite castle interiors with their panel ceilings shelter an
extensive collection of paintings by Czech baroque masters as
well as baroque and Renaissance furniture and tableware. Shrouded
in tales and legends the castle even has its own (good) ghost - White
Lady - whose portrait hangs in what is called the Rosenberg Room.
Ceske Budejovice
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The most valuable monument on the upper reaches of the Vltava is the
Cistercian monastery in Vyssi Brod. It was founded in 1259, according
to legend as thanks to God for the miraculous rescue of one of the
Rosenbergs. Its appearance today hails from the l9th century. The
monastery's Gothic core is formed by its chapter hall and basilica
with transversal naves and chapels. The library is housed in a
beautiful baroque room and contains 70,000 titles. Admirable as well
are the square's Gothic structures reconstructed in Renaissance,
baroque and classicist styles.
Rozmberk Castle
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Vyssi Brod is sought-after by water lovers, who begin their wanders
along the Vltava here. Lovers of natural wonders explore the nearby
Devil's Wall, a site infused with myths and fables. The bizarre rock
formations were created by granite eroded into blocks making a
fascinating "stone sea'.
The rapids, pools and streams of the upper reaches of the Vltava
disappeared in the 1950s under the Lipno dam. The sparkling silver
surface of the water fulfils every dream of fans of water sports.
The southern Bohemian Blata region is full of melancholy magic. It
fans out from the right bank of the Vltava north-east of Ceske
Budejovice. The villages' distinctive and typical southern Bohemian
baroque l9th-centuiy farm structures are the work of simple village
craftsmen influenced by the architecture of the homes of the
bourgeoisie and nobility.
Cervena Lhota Chateau
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Through a pink mist the water's dark surface reflects the Cervena
Lhota chateau, to all appearances a vision from a magical fairy-tale.
At the beginning of the l7th century the last of the Rosenbergs,
a temperamental admirer of life named Petr Vok, moved to a chateau
in Trebon. Up until today Trebon has preserved its original medieval
plan, fortifications and gates, as well as numerous Gothic and
baroque structures, for which it has been identified as a
protected urban monument. It is, however, a modern city with
a rich cultural life and due to its extensive reserves of quality
medicinal mudbaths Trebon is as well an important spa centre for
those with motor difficulties.
Fishermen
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In the l6th century southern Bohemia's most famous fisherman
Jakub Krcin from Jelcany and Sedlcany resided in Trebon. He
established a series of new ponds, among them Svet (the World),
not far from the city, and the largest southern Bohemian pond, the
Rozmberk. The technical perfection and environmental sensitivity
of the unique system of ponds, dikes, feed and drainage canals
are astonishing even today. It is said that Krcin was a cantankerous,
sometimes mean-spirited man, but he left behind a grand and wondrous
creation.
Following the Vltava�s current to the north of Ceske Budejovice one
finds the Hluboka chateau situated above a forest valley in the centre
of a well-maintained park. The pure white, three-storey chateau
converted to the neo-Gothic romantic style of the l9th century is
the pearl in the crown of southern Bohemia ... and brings us to
a full-stop in our travels.
Hluboka Chateau
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- Ondrej Kuklik's 2001 production -
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