Things you should have on hand before proceeding:

Key operation:
(1) 12 volt relay and socket, or 4 crimp terminals that fit the relay, etc. relay does not have to be high current capable. This unit uses less than 1 amp. A 15-amp size is typical. The smaller the current the better, as the coil will be smaller and consume less of the bikes power. (pep boys, radio shack)
(2) ring terminals that will fit over the 10 mm battery lugs.
(2) 1 amp fuse and matching fuse holder (from radio shack, etc.)
(1) roll of electrical tape
(3) feet of 16 gauge stranded insulated wire.

Mounting The Unit: Suggested mounting for the VN750 is to use the provided piece of Velcro to attach the unit above the gas gauge, situating it between the existing round instruments. (Any easy to read location for you is best and this may vary for different bikes) It is suggested to thoroughly clean the surface of the bike you are applying the Velcro to. Rubbing Alcohol should do nicely.

Notes about wiring the unit: The unit is fully polarity protected. You cannot harm your unit by connecting it in reverse. However it will only operate when connected correctly. Do NOT connect to any voltage source higher than 16 volts, such as ignition coil leads! Doing so will destroy the unit and void the warranty.

Also, Route wires far away from ignition coils as practical, an inch or two is usually sufficient. Wires too near the coils will pick up magnetic pulses and make your reading tend to pulsate.

Although connecting the unit to existing switched sources or un-switched accessory leads is tempting, it will skew the readings to be lower than normal and cause you to have red lights on when there are no real problems.

It is imperative to route the wire along side the OEM wiring harness when exiting the fork area. Also I have found it is helpful to tie the wire to the post that holds on the speedometer with a tie strap to prevent movement of the wire at the back of the meter during handlebar movements. For added protection it is suggested to tape the entire length of the wire prior to installation to serve as a jacket against sun and the elements. Make certain that the wires are not pinched and do not restrict the normal turning of the handlebars.

Also, it is suggested to remove the seat and gas tank to access the factory route of wiring above the air box. This will prevent sagging of the wire into the engine’s moving and hot components. The fuel lines do not have to be disconnected if you have somebody hold up the tank for you to work underneath. Propping it up is also an option but just be careful it doesn’t slide off and damage something. Secure the wire to the existing harness with tape or plastic tie straps. The optional relay can be located near the OEM junction box in the side compartment.

Battery Caution: Wear eye protection at all times. It is suggested to remove the bikes negative battery cable first before proceeding to install the unit. When finished, re-connect the negative side along with its meter connection last. This will remove power to the entire bike as a safety procedure to help avoid shorting your wrench to ground as you remove the positive terminal to install the ring for the meter supply.

Fusing the unit: Please purchase a fuse holder and a 1-amp fuse at an automotive supply store. Any style of fuse is fine so long as it does not have a larger than 1-amp rating. Fuse the unit as described below. Failure to do so could result in a case rupture of the unit in the unlikely event of a catastrophic failure. The possible flying particles could lead to serious injury or accident. So please do buy the fuse and install it. If you have questions about the proper installation of the fuse please contact me before proceeding. My address is [email protected].

ON WITH MANUAL SWITCH: it is possible to connect the unit directly to the battery terminals with a customer provided 1 amp fuse. A customer provided toggle switch could be inserted in the positive line after the fuse to turn the unit off when not riding.

--Remove bikes negative battery cable as addressed above.

--The wire with white stripe wire on the meter is positive. Connect it to one leg of the switch you provide. The other switch lead goes to one lead of the fuse holder. Connect the fuse holders other leg to the battery’s positive terminal using a crimp ring terminal, etc. You may solder the terminal on if you prefer, prior to being near the battery. (Always wear eye protection when working around battery.)

--Tape up any exposed connections thoroughly.
--The plain wire is the Negative, connect it to the battery negative, along with the bikes negative cable.

ON WITH KEY:
--Remove bikes negative battery cable as addressed above. (Always wear eye protection when working around battery.)

--(non bike warranty users) Relay Installation: A relay can be purchased at most any automotive store or radio shack, pep boys (with the fog lights and such), etc. Refer to the instructions with the relay for terminal connections.

--Connect one of the fuse holder leads to the red wire going to the tail light connector under the seat.
You can identify the proper plug by the fact it is a nylon Molex connector with several wires. (If you have a meter or 12-volt test light, and are experienced in its use, you can probe the Red wire of the plug and if you have the right wire, the light will come on with the key, but you will have to temporarily re-install the battery negative cable.) When finished--Remove bikes negative battery cable as addressed above.

The red wire is the only wire belonging to the bike you will have to cut into.

--You can shave some insulation off the red wire with a knife and wrap one of your fuse holder’s leads around the red OEM wire then solder in place and tape securely. This is now a switched 1-amp positive source to power your relay. (Bike Warranty users should avoid this step to prevent voiding your warranty. (While under warranty, use meter manual switch.)

--Connect the other end of the same fuse holder to one of the relay’s 2 coil leads, indicated by a curly line on the diagram. Relays are not usually polarity sensitive, but if the coil is marked, connect it accordingly.

--Prepare a wire to connect from the battery ground to the other coil wire on the relay, but do not connect the battery end yet.

--The middle “contactor” on the relay that is marked common should also connect to the same ground wire you are preparing.

--Connect the normally open contact of the relay to the plain (ground) wire of the meter.

--Connect the Positive wire of the Meter (white stripe) to a second customer supplied 1-amp fuse holder.

--Connect the other end of the fuse to the Positive battery Terminal using a soldered on ring terminal or crimped.

--Tape up any exposed connections thoroughly.

--Connect ground wire prepared earlier to the battery ground along with the bikes original cable.

Disclaimer: I am only selling the product. I cannot be held liable for any injury or property damage that may result from mis-installation of the product. Further, you must determine if these instructions seem true before installing the unit. I am not liable for mis-prints or typographical errors.

I cannot be held responsible if you are susceptible to road hypnosis, and begin staring at the pretty lights and have an accident. Please be careful when you ride and view your meter. If you feel uncomfortable installing your meter, please find someone with electronic experience to do so.

Warranty: This product has been hand crafted with the most possible effort towards quality and durability. Each unit is sold with a no questions asked refund policy if the unit is sent pre-paid back to me within 7 days of receipt in original condition (do not shorten the wires until you are sure you are going to keep it. Stripping the wires to install is not a problem, but I can’t add wires back to the unit once cut off too short).

The unit comes with a Warranty to be free of electronic defects for a period of 1 month with a free replacement upon your return prepaid of the defective item. I require the item in return to determine the cause of the failure in order to improve design. I would easily be able to offer a longer warranty, as I expect each item to last many years of trouble free service, but I don’t want any outstanding obligations to anyone if I decide to terminate the production of the units.

Reading Your Gauge:

Red on left- Voltage low, battery is discharging. (Normal when less than 3k rpm)

Yellow in middle-Battery is charging (should be in this area when rpm is 3k or more.)

Red on right- over voltage. RR problem, or Battery overcharged. More than one red light on is generally not normal at any RPM

Perhaps your bike may normally operate in the red area? If it does, is it connected directly to the battery? Or through a relay correctly? You may want your charging system checked.

As stated in the installation section, wiring plays a part in the scales accuracy.

The main goal of the meter is not to be considered as an absolute diagnostic feature; but to learn what pattern is normal for your bike, and then detect a change- indicating a problem before you are stranded.

Approximate Voltage Chart:
Starting from left to right.
1 red 11.5 (battery is dead or weak, shorted cell? may not start? Charge failure?)
2 red 12.0 (battery is weak, but probably will start? Charging?)
3 red 12.5 (battery is holding even, should start?)
4 yel 13.0 (normal charge)
5 yel 13.5 (normal charge)
6 yel 14.0 (normal charge)
7 yel 14.5 (battery toped off)
8 red 15.0 (battery gassing, overcharging, ((but seems normal for Vulcans!!))
9 red 15.5 (battery gassing, overcharging RR did not limit?, indicates a problem)
10 red 16.0 (battery bad, RR bad. Definite problem)

Calibrating your meter: If you are experiencing a high voltage indication by the first high voltage light, #8 being on at times and it is annoying you, go to an electronics place like Radio Shack and buy a silicon rectifier diode. A 1-amp rating is sufficient. Put the diode in series with your positive lead after the fuse holder and the diode will remove 7/10 a volt from the meter, dropping back the reading 1 light. If you cant find one, contact me and I will mail you one. And we wonder why our batteries don’t last long…

Internal Zener Diode Referenced voltage, Unit is very accurate and stable, but there may be some variance between units to some small percentage. So this chart is not intended to relay absolute values.

VN750 Connection Diagram: