Nov 2001 Newsletter
National AGM at Bako National Park, Sarawak
The flight to Kuching was smooth. The arrival was met by Rose and other MNS members including Rebecca, Tony Sebastian, Ramli Ahmad, Chris, Kri, Daniel and Stella. After the initiation, we were ready to be taken to Kubah National Park. The journey took us through the southern part of Kuching, which is made up some ninety-three percent Chinese of Hokkien origin. The northern section of Kuching is a Malay territory.
Kuching (the cat) it was learnt has nothing to do with the cat it most likely came from Mata-Kuching, which is a longan-like fruit, whose seed resembles that of a cat’s eye. Other than the Chinese and the Malays, the population is made up of Iban and Bidayu followed by the Orang Ulu, Melanau and Penan.
The journey to Kubah National Park took about an hour. We were briefed by Ramli and Roy Percival about the park.
The park, comprises 2000 hectares of sand stone hills, is dotted with crystal clear streams and waterfalls. It is home to black hornbills, mouse deers, squirrels and bearded pigs. The bearded pig is unique as the name implies. It wears a bushy beard not seen in any other pigs. Kubah is very rich in palms and orchids. Here, it has the highest variety of palm anywhere in Asia and possibly the world.
Most of us had a short rest before trekking up Gunong Serapi. But we were disappointed as it began to rain heavily. At that height the sound of thunder was unusually loud and frightening. As we trekked on, the group began to space out forming small groups. Owing to the rain some of us decided to discontinue the trek. But die-hards like Peggy and co. made it to the top.
For dinner, we had to get to the pavilion, which was a short distance away. This was followed by the presentation of a video show about the wild life in Sarawak. The close shots of various species of Hornbills were fascinating. Here for the first time we were introduced to the potent rice wine regularly drank by the Iban before they celebrate an occasion. All Iban celebrations must include Tuak. It is after a few drinks that they are “warmed up” for the ngajat dances. Ngajat dancers wear a headgear made of Hornbill feathers. Many hornbills have to be sacrificed in order to supply enough feathers to the dancers.
We were also introduced to a very unique monkey, the Proboscis. This is an endangered species whose population is falling very rapidly. Proboscis monkeys dwells high up the canopy of the rainforest. They are naturally a very shy animal. If at all they are seen, it is most likely that they are very high up at a comfortable distance from you. The Proboscis monkeys have unusually long nose. The voice caught a family with mischievous baby interrupting the father’s numerous attempts to mount onto the mother. Each attempt was interrupted by the pulling of its long nose. The baby Proboscis held onto the father’s nose and began to swing until the father decided to dismount.
Day two began with a track to Matang Wild Life Centre. The continuous rain delayed it by two hours. Matang is 5300 meters high and the rainforest is visibly younger than Belum and Endau Rompin. The flora and fauna are not as plentiful as those found in Belum and Endau Rompin. The trees are very much smaller although the types and species are somewhat the same. The main group consists of Merlene, Henry, May and Wong, Anna, Cheong, Teng and wife. The rest strolled far behind with Ramli explaining and introducing the fauna and flora in great details. Captivated members took photos of the flora and fauna introduced by him.
The Matang Wildlife Centre is a part of Kubah National Park. It is used to retain endangered wildlife in large enclosed areas of rainforest. These endangered species are usually those rescued or confiscated from poachers. Here, we found Orangutan, Deer, Sun Bear and Hornbills. The orangutans, which were either orphaned or rescued from captivity, are taught how to survive in the wild. Although the wildlife centre has the good intention of looking after the animals, but their detention could have been too long judging by the domesticated attitude of the animals. All of them seemed to be “at home’ in the cages.
We emerged from the centre to the waiting vans, which took us to a tiny Iban village with ‘modern’ long houses. Here, the long houses made of concrete instead of the traditional wood, bark and bamboo. It has thirty sub-units. Each sub-unit is occupied by about seven to eight people in one family. A replica made of concrete simply does not look authentic. In fact, looked stupid. The units we saw were simply unimpressive. The modern Ibans here work as farmers, contractors and government servants. They own cars and small lorries parked in front of the long house. A scene like this is far from authentic.
We spent that night in Kuching walking along the waterfront where most of the main attractions as it are the centre of businesses and hotels. The old town is made up of very old Chinese shop houses. Here it is dotted with food stalls, which do bustling business. Kolok is sold everywhere. Most of us tried it and found it to be quite pleasant. Yes, so pleasant that it fitted comfortably to the MNS motto of “Makan Non Stop”. As we did not have the time to really see Kuching, we were contended merely listening to the various descriptive stories. We were told of museums not found in other parts of the world. There are the Islamic Museum, Police Museum, Chinese History Museum, and most of all, the world’s only CAT museum.
Sarawak Cultural Village is located at the foothill of Mount Santubong. The village is represented by 7 major groups: Iban, Bidayuh, Penan, Orang Ulu, Melanua, Malay and Chinese. Each of us was given a “Passport” to be stamped in each of the centres we visited. The centre contains the exact replica of houses each group lives in. The most unique ones are the Melanau ‘tall house’ and the Bidayuh ‘round house’. Quite surprisingly the Penan actually live in a jungle settlement make of bivouac.
The cultural show, which focused on the cultural dances of various ethnic groups, was unique in its own way. Dances depicting good harvest, warring, sago processing and most of all a dance to comfort quests and relatives. Each move, esp. done by young Iban or Bidayu maidens was graceful. Their customs were strikingly attractive. The Orang Ulu dance which portrays the steps of the warrior as he went about on a hunting trip searching for prey. He aimed at a target and blew out a deadly dart from his blowpipe, which seldom fail to find its mark.
From the Sarawak Culture Park to the Bako National Park, it took one and a half-hour to arrive at the river jetty. Each boat, which ferried us to Bako National Park, carried only eight persons. The journey took twenty-five minutes. Upon our arrival the tide was too low. Thus we had to get off some thirty meters from the shoreline. The men formed a human chain of about twenty persons to convey our luggage to the shore.
Bako National Park covers an area of about 25 sq. km. It is a good blend of forest, mangrove and beaches. There is an abundance of vegetation, wildlife and plant life. After registration, some couples were displeased about being separated into different chalets. As most couples pack their belongings together, it would be inconvenient when clothing was needed. Moreover, couples with different interests may have to discuss about their choice of programme: surely within talking distance, not walking distance.
Going towards the chalet, we were greeted by menacing monkeys, while bearded pigs roamed the places care-freely. The monkeys, ‘the kurang-ajar’, respected no one. They rushed towards us in sudden darts expecting to be bribed with tit-bits. Though harmless, they are certainly menacing. We were warned not to keep the chalet doors opened lest the belongings be stolen by the monkeys. My cup of 3 in 1 coffee left on the table at the veranda was snatched away by a swift-handed monkey.
Here we were introduced to Mazlan, the snakeman, who survived numerous snakebites. One of the worst bites was by a king cobra, which landed him in a coma. His presence that night was to demonstrate to all of us his special escape skill. Ooi Hock Aun and Teng volunteered to tie him up. They summoned their knotting skill to have Mazlan tied in front of the audience. We were so certain that there was no possible way for him to get out unassisted. A curtain was raised to shield him from view. Behind the curtain he juggled for less than minutes and it was over. When the curtain was down, there he was standing with his hands raised to signal his freedom. There was much amazement.
Three night programmes were planned for us by the Kuching Branch. Nightwalkers can choose to be taken for a short trekking up hill. Star watchers can choose to look skywards. Some can choose to go for a beach walk. They were certainly very thoughtful to take into consideration such a large group of people with different interests. Thumbs up to them all.
Before adjourning to bed, we were told to be up early in order to catch the Proboscis monkey. We did not see any. After breakfast, we were in the hall ready for the AGM. It was all fired up to begin with. Gradually, the atmosphere became drier and drier. Soon, it was tranquillising. Very many hidden yawns subtly shielded by silky fingers, periodic jostles back to the senses, many pretentious alertness, all were betrayed by glassy eyes that stared at nothingness. It was hypnotic. Many silently wish that the end would come right now.
Yes, it came at long last. It was time for lunch ‘Makan Non Stop’ took over. MNS, MNS living up top its motto.
Repeating the morning’s scenario, the afternoon session was more draggy. It came to an end anyway to the pleasure of all.
Out in the open, keen birders like Phaik Imm, Susan and Molly were ever ready with their gear aiming skywards hopping for a lifer. Names which sounded strange to non-birders were mentioned amongst themselves. Some names were tainted. Yet, behind each name was a beautiful bird with indescribable colour and beauty.
In a while BBQ would be ready. This time, quality-controlled, quantity-uncontrolled. Yes, fish, chicken, and sausages, plenty of them to go round. It must have been an attempt to ‘celebrate’ the end of the dry AGM. Everyone had his stomach filled only to be emptied again either over a jungle walk or a beach walk.
Most of them were experienced in jungle walking. Here they preferred to have something different. They chose beach walk instead. Another programme set ready for us was astronomy. But the sky was too cloudy for it. All the programmes began late and ended late. When it was time to be in bed, everyone was drained out.
We were to leave Bako National Park early for Batang Ai. By 7.30 all were ready with their luggage at the dinning hall waiting for breakfast. This time, it was disappointment. We were served with rancid mee the smell of which could be picked up easily. In fear of food poisoning, most of us left the food uneaten. Sensing trouble, the caterer quickly fried some rice to replace the rancid mee.
The boat ride back to the river town went smoothly. There the buses were waiting for us. We came to a small town Lachau to have our lunch. Ramli emphasized strongly that the name of this town should be spelt without the ‘n’. Here a pack of hungry wolves scrambled for the food of their choice,
We needed another 2 hours to reach Batang Ai reservoir. This reservoir is much larger than the Temenggor Dam. We traveled by long boats up river. The building of the reservoir locked-in the water of river drowning the trees. Some of them are as large as those found in Belum forest. All through the journey, thousands of dead trees line both sides of the river.
The journey to the Iban long house took about 2 hours.
The Iban long House veranda that runs the length of the house is called ruai. This is where guests will be greeted. The length of ruai can be as long as 250 feet. Along one side of the ruai are the individual dwelling units, which can accommodate 5 to 6 persons. The wall of the long house is usually made of tree bark and the floor, bamboo. The headman occupies the centre of the long house.
We arrived at about 7.00. It was quite dark. We queued and climb up the ladder to the long house in single file. At the top of the ladder the headman used a live chicken to circulate the heads of all the guests. This is the traditional way of blessing. We were than led through the ruai by 2 young dancing maidens who wore colourful skirt-like sarong laced with coins. The headman conducted the miring ceremony. It is a ceremony conducted to welcome visitors. Offerings of food and drinks are made to the deities. The offering consisted of 7 plates each of cut sugar cane, fried padi, boiled sago, and of course Tuak. Each time an offer is made, they yelled “ho-ha”. All guests were offered a glass of tuak taken from a large jar. While the warming up was on going the musical team began to play the traditional music. The Iban play only single note instruments. Before a dance, the dancer is usually given a glass of Tuak. Even little maidens can down a glass of Tuak without a wink.
Ramli, with the help of a few glasses of support, took the lead to do the ngajat dance. He oiled his way across the bamboo floor with such grace that can even shy the Ibans themselves. Soon, he was joined by others. The war dance, the hornbill dance, the eagle dance all were performed with so much enthusiasm. At another corner, some of our members were busy filling themselves with Tuak. It tastes quite pleasant in a small quantity. But it has a potency which most of us were not exposed to before. Slowly but surely, the tuak began to ‘eat’ into those who had no respect for it. Soon some of us were over taken by it.
The first victim slumped down and was reduced to a piece of listless meat. Semi digested food skirted out his prolapsed mouth and nose. His stomach was determined to empty itself by rejecting the content with violent skirts. He was down and out. Followed by another member who, although did not suffer as much vomiting, found himself too weak to even sit up. He was left to sleep where he dropped. It was already 3 o’clock. Most of us were too tired to go on. But the music and dance went on. Ramli was still doing his ngajat. This time, for the first time, he displayed his special skill of lifting a wooden mortar with his teeth and pranced away as gracefully as ever. The mortar must have weighed 50 pounds.
The Iban breakfast consists of tea and cream crackers. Here special arrangement was made to provide us with bread, jam and coffee. We were then taken to a hill to witness the Iban padi planting ceremony. They believe that the right time to plant is vital. For padi, the right time is when the stars of the 3 hunters are in alignment with the 7 sisters. Not many people can understand this. Whatever, we witnessed the elaborated ceremony conducted at the top of the hill. Offerings were made to the earth, the birds, and the God of the padi grain. And of course Tuak was offered to all. Hill padi takes 5 months to mature. It is actually planted in no-man’s land. When an Iban family has moved, another family may take over the land and cultivate on it.
The family whom we ‘helped’ to do the padi planting thanked us for giving
them the blessing. We left the hill and were taken by long boats to shoot
up the rapids of Hulu Batang Ai. The Ibans are very good boatmen. At a
young age they learn where it was too difficult to precede further. Here,
we stopped for lunch. A small group who had ‘aqua phobia’ chose to go trekking
at Wang Peladai Kubang Buaya.
We were back at our long house ‘home’ by late afternoon. We had to
take our dinner in the second long house since half of our group was staying
there. Everyone was lazing around when the ladies began to liven up the
atmosphere by sharing their jokes with all. Phaik Imm, Helen, Connie and
Merlene led the pack with such flowery jokes that galvanised the surrounding
into a mood that even the meekest ladies of grace were silently enticed
into participating. Their brand of jokes lowers yours cholesterol, stabilizes
your blood pressure, reverses your diabetes, and most of all chucks your
Viagra out the windows. Don’t leave home without them!!
In a while, it was ‘MNS’ again. With chicken, wild brinjal, palm shoots; the meal was pleasant except for the clumpy rice, which we were not accustomed to eating.
It was time for ‘HO-HA’ again. The Chinese equivalent of Yam Seng filled the air. The flow of Tuak was generous. The music was loud. The Ngajat was graceful. Many of our members were forcibly dragged out to do it. Beginning with Datuk Hashim, Peggy, Chong Fong Loon, there was an air of festivity. There was the wish that it would not end. But all good things must come to an end. To some, bad things began. The E. Coli dinner began to take its toll. All through the night saw some of us rushing to the loo at almost predetermined interval. With only two lavatories to serve so many, invariable some had to resort to Kegal exercise.
Our last day in the long house began with cream cracker and tea or coffee at 7.00. By 8.00 all the luggage were carried to the river bank ready for departure. As usual, group photographs were taken. Midway, some rushed back to the loo again! We were on our way back to the Batang Ai reservoir, in Lachau and of course last minute shopping. And another shopping spree along the way at the Sarawak Pottery Centre. At the airport, the group was split into three. One proceeded to Miri for a private visit. Another, to Subang. We were on our way to KLIA for Ipoh.
E.L. Teng