  The entrance of Mt. Jade. (2,600 M / 8,530 ft.)
塔塔加鞍部（玉山登山口)
Every meandering
mountaineering trail offers people the space to create and think. Let us cherish
youth, look for realization, reach higher altitude and open your mind. Mt. Jade makes us seek ambition and search for truth. |
Mountaineering is not just reaching the peak. We should not simply try to challenge
ourselves but enjoy the allure of jungles and the enchanting scenery. Indeed,
mountaineering is a kind of training. In the process of climbing while sweating, our
closed minds are gradually opening. |
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| 登山 |
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周五的某個夜晚，小隊長分配好個人所需分擔的公共裝備或糧食，就匆忙往集合地點匯合．深夜，一票青年學子從台北搭上遊覽車，南下往玉山國家公園前進．一路搖搖晃晃睡不好覺，車開了約六個小時，清晨四點鐘，在中橫下車． |
全體隊員在黑夜中動作，運用平衡覺，不用視覺，穿上兩層厚襪，載上小帽，扣緊背環，背著二三十公斤的大背包，拿著登山杖，精神不繼地集合．“有沒有人沒到的？沒到的舉手！”沒有人舉手，於是大夥兒在天色微明之際，從玉山的登山口塔塔加鞍部，依小隊分別行進． |
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Walking to Mt. Jade: Three people (left lower corner) walk to
Mt. Jade. with equipment weighting about 25kgs(55pounds) per
person. |
The morning wind crossing the trees is just like the whisper by the pillow last night.
Occasional articulate chirps of birds roam in the fragrant air of soil. Only the
sound of mountaineering sticks striking rocks fortuitously breaks the silence of this
endless tranquility. |
The buds of people-welcoming pines and cypresses along the trail are now growing
prosperously. They turn the whole forest green, teeming colorful, brilliant
agreeable manners in the tranquil mountains. Crossing the eye-covering light fog, we
watch the scenery along the zigzag mountaineering trail. The dark-green range upon
range of mountains in Taiwan, looks like an ancient, open, vivid geographic book. Juo-Shuei River flows down beneath your legs. Light-green Mt. Jade crouches in the front magnificently. My eyes are
wet, saying, "Oh! Mt. Jade! I am coming!" in my
mind. |
漫漫的登山之路提供了創作和思考的空間。享受年輕，掌握青春，追尋自我的成長，突破地域思考的狹隘，開拓視野與心靈。玉山，促使我們成為理想的追求者､真理的執著者。
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早風穿過樹梢，簌簌地像昨夜枕畔的絮語，幾聲清脆的鳥鳴，蕩漾在含著泥土香味的空氣之中，只有登山杖撞擊岩石的聲音，偶然劃破這無邊的寂靜。 |
“噢！……嘿！……喂！……”許多夥伴看到壯闊的山谷，此起彼落地隔空叫著．對面的山巒卻來個相應不理，其實如果有回音，那才離譜． |
沿途夾道迎人的松柏，正值新葉初吐時分，染山林片片蒼鬱，為靜謐翠嶺平添多彩躍動的丰姿。踏過一片遮眼的薄霧，但見山路兩側的景觀，台灣山岳一片層層次次的蒼綠，像一冊古老的地理書攤開著：濁水溪從腳下伸展遠流，淡綠色的玉山雄踞在前方，我的眼角濕潤，內心說道：”啊！玉山！我來了！” |
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一路上，處處是懸崖峭壁，處處是萬丈深淵．走了許久，到一處叉路，左側是 玉山前峰，直走是玉山主峰，於是大家放下重裝，改背輕裝攻頂．我們手腳並用，爬在碎石坡上，彷彿行為已經退化到跟猿猴一樣，不一會兒的功夫，就如猿猴般爬到玉山前峰． |
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登山不只是登頂而已，或許基於挑戰克服的心態，而輕輕忽了沿途山林的召喚以及誘人的美景，其實登山是一種修鍊，在不斷揮汗上登的過程中，塵封的心門也正一吋吋開啟！ |
開放的心胸，內心彷彿揚溢著音符．在內心高唱進行曲時，身體也不斷地在操練，就像是隨著軍樂而前進的勇士． |
我們是一群山岳的勁旅，喜歡在旅途上聆聽任何音樂的演奏．在孜孜不倦地向前邁進途中，著重在親身經歷，和聲及氣氛的營造．我們內心高唱著進行曲，藉由自然萬物合奏出超凡脫俗､深邃飄渺的意境，將天籟及人聲交互重疊的音效，幻化為天使氣息般的絕美跫音，樹立深刻強烈的自然色彩．山岳重重競起，啟發雄心大志的登山人；山樂陣陣悠揚，洋溢在洗耳恭聽的登山客．”自然界的神韻匯於深沉有力的青春裡”． |
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| Team members in front of
Pei-Yu Hut (3,528M / 11,575
ft.) 排雲山莊前合影．
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No matter how splendid the landscape or scenery is, no matter how pellucid lakes are, they
are still callous matters. Only with some good friends can the memory become more
vivid. A photograph with everybody is the proof that all of us are together.
The picture also reveals that we who try to conquer the mountains are easy-going, coming
together with the sense of community, loving photography, nature and challenging the self.
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The bitterly cold weather, taking out of physical strength, insufficient sleeping, ghost
stories with one's hair standing on end and the risk of a mountaineering calamity are the
sources of keen torment for our body and mind. However, we would rather say this
activity has once again successfully become the best subject matter for mountain-hikers'
sense of community than the intense response is triggered by abominable conditions.
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好不容易從2,600公尺的塔塔加鞍部到3,600公尺的排雲山莊．大家紛紛么喝來一起照相．山川即使再壯麗，湖水即使再清澈，仍舊是無情之物；唯有加上一批熟識的朋友在其中，才能使這段記憶的畫面更為生動。團體照不僅是大夥在一起的明證，同時也流露出登山人容易相處､凝聚成生命共同體的意識，以及他們對自然､攝影､挑戰自我的熱愛。
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山下氣溫二十餘度，山上不到十度，加上山風，更是把每人包得像穿太空衣．一天之內要往上挺升1,000公尺，整個白天都在向前邁進，絲毫不亞於行軍．整夜沒睡，也沒午睡，精神不佳地爬山刻苦患難，外加日前耳聞一堆玉山的鬼故事，這些都是潛在可能的山難． |
酷寒的氣候､體力的透支､睡眠的不足､令人毛骨悚然的鬼故事，以及山難的風險，都是大夥兒激烈的身心煎熬的來源，但與其說惡劣的情境激起登山人強烈的反應，還不如說高山活動，又再次成功地被登山友拿來做為凝聚大夥一體感的絕佳題材。 |
平日在都會忙碌的生活，總是穿梭在自己不同的領域裡，難得有機會與大夥來挑戰大自然．夥伴們可以互相關照，許多話題無所不談，必要時還提出援助，令人倍覺溫欣． |
縱然生命的年輪裡，有許許多多時代的痕跡，每每在團體活動中，卻能像根鬚吸收的人生經驗提煉昇華，給人寬厚的溫暖､清晰的指引､心靈的響宴，彷彿那濃濃的同袍愛。 |
排雲山莊廁所留言 |
登山人等不得在此大便
登山，人等不得，在此大便
登山人，等不得在此大便
登山人等，不得在此大便
登山人等不得，在此大便
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 A strong tree on Mt.
Jade.
Mountaineering is like treasure hunting: The deeper inside, the more beautiful the
treasure.
Separating by
breaking out mountain ranges, this rugged land can only be reached by a great deal of
brooks which originated from highlands. A mountaineering hut belonging to
mountain-lovers secludes you from the world, resting in the cliffy glen of Xanadu.
The pertinacious, splendid and peculiar Central Mountain Ranges
vigorously call quick-witted seekers by pulling out rough geography from seashores. |
Even if you just meet with Mt. Jade, your dense esthetic
sensibilities and historical feelings are similar to indulging wine -- intoxicating and
swooning. People who first come here can never miss Mt. Jade.
However, if you experience this hardworking and fascinating trip, you could have a serious
side effect: you are not excited about the other mountains, since you have experienced the
most impressive one. |
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高山景觀
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爬山就像尋寶一樣，愈往裡去，珠寶愈美。古老深邃的玉山山脈，是遼闊綿亙的原始荒地，同時亦是洋溢著青春律動與活力的大眾化高山。 |
由於被突起的山脊所阻隔，只有源於高地的許多河流還能伸展到這片崎嶇的土地。屬於愛山人士的山屋與世隔絕，憩息於陡峭山谷的世外寧靜中。執拗､絢爛而奇異的中央山脈，以從海岸拔地而起的山勢，向崇尚心靈自由的人發出雄渾的召喚。 |
單單與玉山照面，那稠密無比的美感與歷史情懷，就像品一口佳醪，已足以令人醺然陶然了。首次來到此地跋山的人，絕不可錯過玉山主峰，只不過經歷這次操勞又美妙的旅程，卻對其他山區產生嚴重的後遺症：到這裡的人彷彿曾經滄海難為水，對其他高山的興緻不再激動。 |
Mt. Jade
West
Peak
(3,528M / 11,575 ft.)玉山西峰: Picking up
a dog tag on a summit of a mountain, I pose in front of a camera. It is like the
glamour of reaching the peak embellishes me, like the stars that beautify the night.
The antique, deep
Mt. Jade is pristine, expansive and stretching unworked
acres. As a popular high mountain, it is permeated by the rhythm of young climbers.
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登上頂峰，拾起山頂的狗牌，在像機前擺個pose，使登頂的榮耀裝飾著我，就如同星辰裝飾著夜空。
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對玉山的接觸與了解，是在邁向登山之途的過程。我很慶幸自己在有生之年得以涉足這座雄踞在東南亞一方的名山。站在山頭上極目崇山峻嶺，頓時感受到個人的生命短暫飄忽，一如流螢，但是一旦踏上玉山，剎那間直如銜接了歷史地理的長河，擴增了生命的時空向度。 |
Mt. Jade Front Peak (3,236M / 10,617 ft.)
玉山前峰 (3,236公尺/10,617英呎) Standing on the
summit of a mountain and looking around, one deeply experiences the shock of the power and
beauty of Mother Nature. Vast mountain ranges tower above, the ancient roof of
Taiwan. For millions of years, a sea of clouds has pushed its way among the ravines
below. |
These are the attractions to entice human beings to conquer the summit: majestic
mountains, brawny clothes, dog tags on peaks, warm human touch and the sense of
achievement. |
站在山頂上，環顧四周，大自然力與美的震撼，仍歷歷在目，刻骨銘心。群山在千百萬年前就矗立在台灣的屋脊上；雲海，也在千百萬年前就盤據在山谷之間。
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雄壯的山勢､粗礦的穿著､山頂的狗牌､溫暖的人情味､成就感的獲得，這些全是吸引人們超越顛峰的誘因。 |
台灣頂點思索台灣
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The statue of Lu,
Lou-Ren standing on Mt. Jade. (3,992M / 13,097 ft.)玉山主峰頂：余佑任像． Mt. Jade proudly rises straight up in the midst of many other
imposing mountains. Day after day, year after year, it is evolving gradually -- over
four hundred years, it has been subjected to the sovereignty of San-Kuo,
Spain, Portugal, Holland, Ming Dynasty, Manchu Dynasty, Jeng-Cheng-Gung, Japan,
Nationalist Party and Democratic Progressive Party.
No matter that it has changed its landlords every few decades on average; no matter that
it might transform its sovereignty like Hong Kong in 1997 and
Macao in 1999, Mt. Jade still
stands on the center of Taiwan. Along with the washes
of mountain wind and a sea of clouds, the passage of history only increases the mountain's
significance. |
Despite the fact that Mt. Jade has bourne the history of the
rise and decline of a regime on its shoulder, experienced different political powers such
inheritance from generation to generation, dictatorship, colonization, curfew, an order of
martial law, political terrorism, democracy, etc., it has survived, and even more, it
appeals to the heart's chord. It possesses greater reputation than other high
mountains. Today, as an anti-communism democratic community, it is inharmoniously
living on the edge of a giant communist sovereignty. |
以歷史宏觀的觀點來看，玉山，驕然的聳立在亙古不變的群山裡，歷經一天又一天，一年又一年，一點又一滴的風蝕雨化------
四百年來，歷經三國､西班牙､荷蘭､葡萄牙､明朝､清朝､鄭成功､日本､國民黨及民進黨等的統治，不論玉山是否平均每逢數十年更替一次主人，不論玉山在九七年香港回歸中國，以及九九年澳門主權歸還中共，下一個主人又是何方人物，依舊聳立在台灣的中央----隨著山風和雲海的洗練，玉山越發憾人心弦。 |
儘管玉山背負著政權興衰起落的歷史，歷經世襲､獨裁､殖民化､宵禁､戒嚴､白色恐怖､民主等各種政權，但它卻生存了下來，而且越發憾人心弦。它比其他百岳享有更高的盛名，如今，做為一個反共產的民主社會，不協調地生存在一個巨大共產政權的邊緣。 |
不論是炎炎夏日，亦是陰冷冬季
，玉山，實在是一處寒冷到極點的地區，特別是培養歷史觀的登山人．這怎麼說呢？假使這塊山地從前的執政當局，沒有施展那些愚蠢行徑的話，多事之秋的玉山其實是個教人很容易揣想其過去事蹟的山岳，如果想到變天後新的執政者如何對待那些蓄意破壞其政權穩定性的措施，即使肩挑重裝快速邁進，恐怕還是教你不寒而慄． |
或許，這座矗立在台灣最高點的雕像，時時刻刻俯視這塊島嶼的繼往，它適合在黑夜裡，憑藉著山下的人們去想像，揣測它昔日兵荒馬亂的歲月． |
不論何處是台灣的起點，或是何處為台灣的終點，站在台灣的最高點，回顧那庭院深深的排雲山莊，那矗立山頭的雕像，還有那無法載諸史簡的鬼故事，綜觀這塊土地歷史的登山人，動盪風雲，紛戰歲月，你也沒有必要和他們作對吧？ |
一塊風雲數百年土地的最高點，總是以勇者的姿態卓然站起，而一個紀念碑，卻常常隱含著淒美的奇人軼事．眼前所見留下來古早的雕像，是台灣久經風浪而仍屹立於世的表徵，而雕像所述的是台灣久遠而動盪的歷史． |
培養了歷史的距離與視野，有過悲情經驗的台灣登山人也許就知道，這種”台灣人的悲哀”其實一點也不特別，只是與世界大歷史同步的痛苦．若不耽緬在哀怨與復仇的情緒裡，就能重新出發，開拓新的歷史． |
在一生短短數十寒暑，人生的無常和天地的滄桑，兩者的交互輝映裡，關懷到更高層次的文化變遷，以及前後的歷史關連，甚至於宏觀到人與自然的關係，而其動人的高貴之處也正在於此． |
這座大山與世隔絕，幾乎形成另一個天地，幽靜閒散的山林氣息，向來對騷人墨客的創作能力是一大考驗．山林氣息並不止於山川風貌，而是，以它叱煞風雲的過往而自豪． |
對歷史的多情總會加重人生的負載，由歷史滄桑感引發出人生滄桑感．我真不知應留戀於歷史的煙雨中，還是徜徉在自然的韻味裡了． |
歸途中，回頭仰望逐漸幽遠的雕像，曾經目睹豐富多樣歷史文明的玉山主峰，對我們而言，都和星星月亮一樣，永恆不變，理所當然的東西．站在山上，駐足片刻，思索台灣多事之秋的政治和歷史，彷彿先民的影像仍會浮現出來，只不過它們離我們頗遠，必須走一段艱辛的路才能看到． |
The vista of Mt. Jade
(玉山景觀 ): great mountains rise like walls to the sky. The
color palette for every mountain is not exactly the same, yet each is similarly
breathtaking, and offers viewers endless visual entertainment for all eras.
In the Indian
summer, the dragon-prancing Mt. Jade ranges surrounded by
gullies have another flirtatious expression. The red fruit and yellow flowers make Mt. Jade full of life. However, you suddenly feel fall is
coming when you sorrowfully catch a glimpse of the withered and yellow grass in the dusk. |
Touching and understanding Mt. Jade is part of the process of
marching on the trail. In my life, I have been favored enough by luck to set foot in
the holy mountain located in South-east Asia. Standing on the peak, you look around
the high mountains and lofty crests. Suddenly you experience that individual life is
so short and floats in the air hither and thither, just like a shooting star. But
when you stand on Mt. Jade, you are instantly connected with
history, enlarging your life space. |
回程 |
偉大的山川，彷彿頂天而立的高牆，每座山川的色調雖不盡相同，卻一樣令人屏息驚豔，且為未來的日子提供享受不盡的視覺嚮宴。 |
夏秋之際，一向如青龍般騰躍於千山萬壑間的玉山群峰，有了另一番風情。豔紅的果實､鮮黃的花朵，將玉山點綴的生意盎然。然而當日暮時分，瞥見夕陽餘輝下的枯黃小草，才驚覺秋意已悄然來臨。
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The downward trail
from Mt. Jade. A bottomless abyss.從玉山主峰回程的碎石坡：萬丈深淵。
The welcoming
light fog is the Mt. Jade's elegant veil. She plays the
coquette around you, only occasionally permitting the sunlight spraying at this trail or
that mountaineering hut. The veil is milk white in the morning, glaring at noon,
turning to champagne hues in the afternoon. It shines on the surfaces of sleek rock
and resuscitates the flowers along the trail. Deeply loved by photographers, the
bright and brilliant sunlight from everywhere probably seems from Mt.
Jade itself -- adamant mountaineering huts, virile mountains, radiant and
enchanting views as though identically constituted by light. |
越走海拔越低，也逐漸雲霧繚繞．迎接你的這片輕霧，是玉山優雅的面紗，她常圍繞在四周賣弄風情，只准陽光偶爾點灑在這裡的山路，或是那邊的山屋。面紗在在早晨是乳白的，正午白得耀眼，下午就轉成香檳色澤，照亮了光滑岩石的表面，也吹活了沿路的野花。深受攝影家鍾愛，來自四面八方的燦爛光芒，似乎是發自玉山本身－－堅固的山莊､雄渾的山勢､明媚的山景彷彿清一色是由光所構成的。 |
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