Villages can swell
to many times their normal populations as families stage enormous
funerals, often
yuears after the loved one has passed away. In the invariably muddy fields
and pathways hundreds
of chickens and pigs are summarily dispatched, while buffalo are
slaughtered with
great ceremony, young boys jostling to catch spurting blood in long
bamboo tubes. Events
range from quiet prayers and solemn processions to stirring hymn
singing and exiting
battles between water buffalo, all conducted in a festival atmosphere of
clan solidarity
and reunion.
For visitors, this
is a magnificent show, as the ever hospitable Toraja will make arrangements
to accommodate everyone
who attends the ceremonies. Even a young backpacker
stumbling into a
Torajan funeral is offered a space in the temporary shelters erected for
the
occasion. The shelter
set aside for tourists is generally in a good location, behind the closest
relatives and community
leaders, of course, but often far closer to the action than shelters
reserved for distant
or impoverished relations. A well-behaved foreigner is considered an
honored guest,
whose arrival from a far adds cosmopolitan element to the festival occasion.