#9 Baja California Norte - 1/10

Check out www.worldriders.com for the web page of a couple of Odyssey riders, one of whom worked at Hewlett Packard.

The more remote you are in Baja, the more likely any non-semitruck passing you is from the U.S. If a bunch of RV's pass you in unison, they're probably from Wisconsin. It seems that after the last Packer game, a lot of fans head for Baja.

The short days are making for difficult riding. I had to sag in the other day for the first time in my life. I wouldn't have made it before dark. The day before, I made the mistake of unclipping only my right foot before riding off the pavement to take a picture. When I hit the soft shoulder, my bike slide down and I fell on the side I didn't unclip. I managed to slightly bruise a rib. It's much better now, but it didn't help my breathing on a long hilly (4400ft of climbing) day.

To make sure I got into camp before dark today, I left this morning when breakfast was SCHEDULED to be served. Since it was going to be late and very slow, I figured I had enough cookies to last the day. Today turned out to be easy as I finished 87 miles at 2pm (3pm Mountain Time). In Baja, long stretches can be boring, then you crest a hill and the vista will take your breath away. Yesterday, one such view unfolded with a forest of sequoia cactus back dropped by a magnificent ragged mtn peak. Today, a surprise vista was panoramic. To the north were yesterday's rugged peaks. To the west were rolling hills. To the southwest, following the highway, were low clouds coming off the ocean. To the east were mesas rising out of the distant haze. The last 45km today, were flat and dead straight. The massive flag which marks the border between Baja California Norte & BC Sur was visible down the narrow straight highway for 17km.

The next two days are hilly with mileage being 96 and 91. These days will convince more riders that they didn't sign up for some leisurely pedal. One person left today. My guess is that by La Paz, we'll lose at least five riders voluntarily. Some of them never could figure out that if they the last riders out of camp, and were the slowest riders, they'd always have to sag in the last part. The day I was forced to sag in, 97 other riders came to camp in a vehicle rather than their own power.

Guerrero Negro (black warrior) is the first real town we've stayed in since the first night in Baja, and the first chance to send e-mail. There are no power or telephone lines following the highway. The "big" motel we stayed at in Catavina had to generate its own electricity. The generator provided white noise to help drown out the ever barking dogs in Baja. Yesterday, one ran 50km with us to the checkpoint restaurant. I barely beat the dog!! . . . but I'll conquer the world.

Happy Trails,
Bruce