Norway, Denmark & Sweden
After the scenic mountains of western Norway, the riding, not to mention the layover day in Oslo, has been rather unphotogenic and sometimes downright boring. Just as there are no waterfalls or rainbows without rain, the best scenery requires climbing. (I haven't been to Switzerland ... yet!) It hasn't been all dull as two days in a row I had to outrace rainstorms ... I won. The first day, I heard thunder and saw sheets of rain falling from a very dark cloud. Fortunately, Denmark is quite flat. Unfortunately, that day I rode for 205.7km (128 miles), my longest day EVER. Only 36 other riders pedaled every mile that day (only 37 even attempted it). Only one of them finished later than me. I'm not fast, just determined.
In Denmark, there are lots of electricity generating graceful white windmills gently rotating their three spokes above wheat fields. They let me better judge the strength and direction of the wind. Denmark also has the least helpful, unfriendliest people of any country so far on Odyssey2000. My theory is it's because they have the worst tasting water in Europe. (I haven't been to Russia ... yet!) Even the $3.25 for 1.5 liter bottled water tastes horrible. The alternatives are expensive; a 16oz Coke is $2.50. That's what makes them so surly.
That didn't distract too much from my enjoyment of Copenhagen. I've never seen such a bicycling oriented city. (I haven't been to Amsterdam ... yet!) There are bike paths along most major streets and you have to use the bike paths. Outside most shops and apartment buildings there are bikes. Most bikes have a lock integrated into the frame which locks the rear wheel. People ride everywhere. Young mothers ride tricycles with their babies in a LARGE bucket between the front two wheels. Copenhagen also has the best bike shops I've seen on this trip, but they don't take VISA - only cash. That saved me a lot of money on stuff I didn't really need ... like Spokey Dokeys.
In Copenhagen, there is a downtown pedestrian mall with jugglers, mimes and musicians. While we were eating Chinese buffet (all you can eat 59Kr [$7.50]) in a second floor restaurant, a bunch (chimney? claus?) of Santas and scantily dressed Mistress Santas along with a marching band of elves paraded down the mall. Christmas in July was the excuse. (I'll be spending Christmas in Kona, Hawaii.)
Copenhagen's main sights can be walked in a day, but it would take a week to experience everything including Trivoli Park. If you can only solve the lousy tasting water problem Copenhagen would be worth the visit.
On the lighter side of Odyssey, Dave the mechanic found a bike in a dumpster. Don't ask me what he was doing in a dumpster. He rescued it and fixed up the 24" wheel small frame silver bike so 4'9" staff member Cheryl would have something to ride when our layover hotel, etc. was too far away from anything to walk. Half-time rider Alan invented a phrase for the off-route people who barely remember what a bike looks like - H.A.M. = hardly any miles. They're the same people who complain about changes even when it means eating at a great restaurant Brit-Simone (one of the Associates of TK&A) found in an industrial park. That's where we were served the most flavorful meal to date. (We haven't been to Thailand ... yet!)
Stockholm looks more interesting than Oslo and the sky is a clear blue. So why am I writing to you? Because I'm in the only laundrymat in this city and it is FILLED with Odyssey riders.
Tomorrow has an 11-hour ferry to Finland with 20km of riding. The following day is 172km to Helsinki. When I've completed that day's pedaling, I will have pedaled every foot of a stage for the first time this year. (I haven't been to New Zealand ... yet!) Where have you not been to ... yet?
Happy Trails,
Bruce