I didn't quite make it out of Ireland before finally running out of energy. According to the Daily Route Guides our mileage since Paris was supposed to be 1511 miles. I had done 1676 miles. I was getting more and more tired each day. Getting in late (but finishing), then not getting to bed until 9pm. Our last night in Ireland was in a noisy campground and I didn't get to sleep until after midnight. 5am came very early. By 9:30 I had run out of gas. I sagged the rest of the day into Northern Ireland thru the nonexistent border (there may have been a sign in the bushes).
I got to sleep at a reasonable hour that night, had a sleep, and awoke refreshed and ready to ride into Belfast. Climbing started immediately. I added to the climbing by going DOWN to the Giant's Causeway, a basalt formation wherein there are octagonal cylinders at the bottom of a towering cliff. It was worth the extra riding to see and photograph. I took more photos along the coast to Belfast than I had the entire time on the Emerald Isle. There were plenty of remnants of castles on precipices. There were the usual herds of baabaabaas, goats, and cattle, but with more scenic backdrops. The oddest view was one with tree divided farmlands sloping gradually down to the coast and looking remarkably like a view from Hilo, Hawaii. I would NEVER have thought I'd compare an Irish landscape to Hawaii, but on this trip the weirdest places have seemed similar. Except, for Pennsylvania and New York which look like nothing outside the United States.
One of the surprises on the Emerald Isle, aside from the unusually terrific weather for our eight days there, is that Odyssey2000's route through Northern Ireland was far more scenic than its route through the Republic of Ireland. I guess that's why people often bicycle southwest from Dublin then up the west coast to Sligo before taking the train back to Dublin. Odyssey didn't have three weeks for that. That's ok by me, 'cause I intend to do the southern route at a later date when I can bring a mountain bike with bigger tires and stay in bed & breakfasts. Ireland uses chip seal for roads and many roads aren't well maintained so cycling in Ireland is bumpy. Bed & breakfasts are ubiquitous so it's easy to find a place to stay.
The best scene I saw in the Republic of Ireland was some sheep waaay up a hill moving in formation. After studying this far off view I spotted a dog herding the sheep. More diligent study revealed the owner below whistling instructions to the dog.
Northern Ireland's scenery ends in Belfast. It's a dirty city filled with tension. The morning Odyssey left, there were the remnants of bonfires still burning in the streets. Bonfires built by Orangemen for their annual protest.
Today I cycled along the Firth of Clyde and Loch Eck. It's hard to imagine a flatter route through such hilly surroundings. Loch Eck was like Lake Crescent in Olympic National Park with mountains coming straight down into the lake but with a flat road along one shore. The last 25 miles found my legs begging to try a bigger gear and it felt great to have my Amalfi Coast legs back even if for part of a day. I was afraid I'd never get my speed back, but at least for part of one day, I was able to sustain speeds of 16-20mph on the flat and FINALLY pass people who weren't stopped. Scandinavia watch out!
Happy Trails,
Bruce