#20 East London, South Africa: Mandela 3/03
There is a wuss factor on Odyssey 2000. Almost half the riders took buses or rental cars from Durban to East London skipping one of the most scenic areas of South Africa - the Transkei. Some used fear of muggings and even car jacking of support vehicles as excuses for being wusses who don't want to ride any long or hilly days. In 14 days of cycling in South Africa, we averaged 85 miles and 5100ft of elevation gain. We pedaled thru miles of sugar cane growing on hills rolling for as far as a person could see. We were hosted by a PTA where the town joined us for dinner under a HUGE tent in a field with a panoramic view of the surrounding mountains. We pedaled along the tops of ridges in rolling cattle, sheep and goat country with sweeping vistas covering hundreds of square miles.
We were hosted by the Eastern Cape Techikon, a technical college outside Butterworth. The Techikon had a secret - they have the best choir in South Africa. This powerful choir entertained us at dinner. They performed a song and dance composed for Odyssey2000. Even without knowing what the words meant, but clearly understanding the emotion, the riders responded with their second standing ovation for this most enthusiastic of choirs. We pedaled passed smiling faces and waving hands of some of the friendliest people we've yet encountered. We were given a private tour of the Nelson Mandela Museum in Umtata. The wusses missed it.
Those who have read the book, "A Social History of the Bicycle: Its Early Life and Times in America," written in 1972 by Robert A. Smith, would have read that, in the late 1800's, the popularity of the bicycle gave a significant boost to the women's movement and helped eliminate much of the class separation in the U.S. It was with this early social influence of the bicycle in mind that I pedaled past the humble home of the human symbol of the end of apartheid, Nelson Mandela. The wusses missed it. Even if I couldn't later complete the day of 102 miles into a howling headwind, I didn't miss the Transkei.
Happy Trails,
Bruce