I think I've proclaimed this about other days, but March 30th was the best day of the trip. In Italy I've toured the Trullis. Trullis are homes or buildings with sharp domes constructed with stacks of thin bricks. In Alberobello, the conglomeration of these structures looks like a Smurf village - really quaint.
I've ridden on very narrow streets thru old Italian hilltowns. Sometimes climbing thru them. Sometimes negotiating winding descents. But always with sharp corners and terrific views. Picture red tile roofs perched hundreds of feet above the aquamarine waters of the Mediterranean. I've camped next to a cave with an 1880's sailing ship inside after a 50 mile day with 4050ft of climbing. Our 19 year old National Team member Trueheart Brown, when asked about the town just beyond the campground, moaned, "They stopped serving breakfast at 10am." He's very fast! I finished three riders later at 11:38am. Did I mention my legs are a little stronger -not to mention that I leave REALLY early from hotels.
I've toured the ancient site of Paestum, a city founded by Greeks around 600BC, back when they had Etruscans, not Romans, for neighbors. There are three massive Doric temples in this ancient city whose construction was attributed to Jason and his Argonauts.
But March 30th! I was on a mission. I rode like the wind climbing and descending the Amalfi Coast dodging tour buses and oncoming traffic on a VERY winding narrow world famous road with breathtaking views all around. Because I was on a narrow bicycle, where tourists in cars & buses could not, I stopped to take photos of the towns, climbs and cliffs. I pedaled over the top of the peninsula, to views of Naples and Mt. Vesuvius. Being one of the first six into camp, I completed my mission by spending three luxurious hours wandering through the ruins of Pompeii (pom PAY ee), the city buried in the 79 A.D. eruption of Mt Vesuvius. It was incredible. Because all the cultural sites were free that week, Pompeii was awash with tourists, especially high school students. I could imagine the ancient streets being alive with shoppers. The Forum, with its lush lawn, Roman columns, and Mt. Vesuvius in the background was an incredible sight. While walking to the amphitheatre, I ran into two wonderful people - Len (Rider #2) Beil and his wife Stella. With his wife visiting, Len has been "off-route" so, as we walked the ancient chariot worn streets, we caught up on the activities and excitement each has found in Italy. With them I visited the house of the Vettii, the best preserved house of Pompeii and the most famous (probably because of the one small room with pornographic wallpaper).
Naples, the next day, will be remembered as my least favorite day thus far. Lots of turns, lots of traffic, lots of cobblestones, and railroad tracks. I crossed the tracks with no problem. It was the change in pavement just passed the tracks which caught my front wheel and sent me crashing to the pavement with my head hitting a parked car. My helmet saved me from head damage, but my bruised shoulder, which prevents me from raising my arm, will keep me out of commission until past Rome.
It didn't prevent me from being amazed by the works of Michelangelo in Vatican City or walking in the Flavian Amphitheatre the past two days. When I walked into the plaza in front of St. Peter's, I had to sit down - not just to rest and take in the view, but because I was staggered by the realization that I was in ROME.
Happy Trails,
Bruce