#26 - Southern Europe by Van - May 15, 2000

I rode my bike for 20km around Washington DC May 13th. Albeit still with some shoulder pain, it was my first ride since March 31st. My deep bruise caused my shoulder to freeze up. Recently, a rider who's a doctor told me I needed DAILY physical therapy from the massage therapists to extend my range of motion. Today, I went to a sports medicine clinic. I was told that the physical therapy for my shoulder would take twelve weeks. That's for complete recovery. I don't know at what point during my therapy I'll be able to ride. My recovery has been painfully slow. I missed riding in northern Italy, southern France, Spain, Gibraltar, and Portugal.

The idea of Odyssey 2000 is to see the world from the seat of your bicycle. While it was great to walk around Rome, Florence and Nice, riding in a van is NOTHING like bicycling. When the route climbed up an incredible set of switchbacks over the Pyrenees, I could only look out the van window and dream of riding. Even if it was only 38 degrees, the blue skies, fresh snow lining the road, and the Easter weekend skiers just below the road made for perhaps the most scenic cycling I've ever seen. Fortunately, this year will have so many riding memories that these L O N G weeks of sagging will, eventually, fade into the background.

But, you're saying to yourself, "Who cares about your body, I want your mind! - what was southern Europe like AFTER Rome?" Northern Italy is hilly. Florence has more people speaking english on the streets than any place in Italy. It also has one of the most beautiful buildings in the world - the Duomo. It's the tall red dome towering over the other red roofs you've seen in any photo of Florence. The intricate detail of the outside is almost enough to make you forget about the gelato shops nearby. One is a ice cream lover's dream. Thirty colorful flavors in a long mirrored case with each main flavor ingredient (be it melon, peach, whatever) atop the gelato. I took pictures.

Some of you already heard about the gear truck insurance problem in Italy. When we got to Genova the gear trucks were stuck in Levanto because the insurance company refused to renew the policy because Europe has no liability limits. Thus, we got four days of hotels instead of camping and got to spend a few days in Nice rather than ride (or sag) thru it. Some of the riders even joined thousands in a 10K/half marathon run one morning. I took pictures and cheered. Eventually, Miracle Tim was able to get insurance and we were happy to get our stuff out of Ryder-type trucks and back into our lockers.

There was a gorgeous route to Carcassone, France, on narrow "roads" astride a canal. The walled old city of Carcassone was used in the Kevin Costner film, "Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves." Carcassone was the mail stop where I got one letter. Which was one more than I got in Gibraltar.

Speaking of whining - the "usual suspects" were at it again during our after-dinner meeting in Carcassone. They berated Tim because everything including the weather and the fact that THEY weren't having a good time was Tim's fault. Finally, a member of what she termed the silent majority said she was having the time of her life. Tim got a richly deserved standing ovation (except from the usual suspects). I doubt the whiners got the hint. You know, the sutble one; "Shut up or get out!" A later Daily Route Guide (DRG) told people to respond to further complaining by asking, "Why are you here?" I'm here to see the world from my bicycle seat and can't wait to get back to it.

Happy Trails,
Bruce