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FAQ
Part I: What is an Autococker?
Part II: How does an Autococker work?
Part III: Who should buy an Autococker?
Part IV: Is the Autococker better than a Mag?
Part V: What is the best _ for the Autococker?
Part VI: How accurate are Autocockers?
Part VII: Are Autocockers really unreliable?
Part I What is an Autococker?
Believe it or not I get this question more often than you think. Hahah If you don't know what it is then I don't think you should be even considering getting one... Play paintball for a bit longer!!!
Part II How does an Autococker work?
An Autococker is basically a pump gun that cocks itself. Hence the name Autococker! Some basic know how here... anyway now to get to the nitty gritty. As with any paintball marker, the Autococker has similarities and differences to every other gun in the market. It is closed bolt, which means it fires the paintball when the bolt is fully forward and stationary (as in a pump gun). However, for those of you who have pump guns will realize, when you look at the internals of the cocker, you will notice that the valve system is completely different from that of a Ranger, Spitfire, Tracer, etc. Rather than having the hammer strike a valve that sits at the rear of the gun, it has a hammer that strikes a valve located in the front of the gun. This is actually quite ingenious for an autococking system as the forward motion of the hammer is counteracted upon by the rearward motion of the cocking cycle. This is my theory of why the Autococker has such a stable shooting platform (that and the weight of a tricked out cocker is relatively high... adding to the stability). Now that we have established the similarities and differences of the autococker to the pump gun, we will compare it to the standard blowback semi. The Autocockers hammer is relatively the same as that of a blowback semi, as is the valve. The hammer moves forward, striking the valve in both guns. The main difference is that the Autococker has separated the action of the bolt and the hammer (these are connected in a blowback semi) and also that of the re-cock. Instead of using gas to directly blow back the striker (aka hammer), the Autococker utilizes a pneumatic cylinder (AKA ram) to push back a block (AKA backblock) which pulls back a rod connected to the hammer (AKA cocking rod) which cocks the gun. This eliminates a much hated seal... the striker o-ring. Obviously, the elimination of this exhaust used to cock the gun lowers the volume level in the firing cycle, making the autococker relatively quieter than a blowback (there are those who would dispute this). How does this cocking system work? Well its actually relatively simple. There is a 4-way valve (yes... Ravi was right... it has 1 input, 2 outputs, and an exhaust... plus pneumatic catalogs refer to them as 4-way's so take it that way) which takes regulated air (usually from the Palmer's Rock or ANS Jackhammer) and channels it to either end of a pneumatic cylinder (ram). When in forward position, the valve sends gas to the back of the ram, bringing the cylinder arm forward. The valve is actuated by a rod connected to the trigger plate (which slides back and forth rather than pivoting) and when the trigger is pulled a certain distance, the valve switches and sends gas to the front of the ram, sending the cylinder arm out. Quite confusing but if you look at this diagram, you will see how simple it really is.
Part III Who should buy an Autococker?
Now I will be frank. You should NOT buy an Autococker if you are just a player who wants the have "the best equipment" or the "coolest" gun out there. The Autococker is one of the top paintball markers in existence today. It's not meant for newbies. It's not meant for the little rich boy who wants the best stuff. It's not even for a semiserious recreational player! I would only recommend this marker to someone who can use it to its extent. Learn the marker, care for the marker, become the marker. There are too many idiots out there who don't know what they are getting into when they buy an Autococker. They take it apart and WHAMMO! it doesn't function correctly. BIG SURPRISE! This is a complicated machine that when properly tuned has the uncanny ability to unload an entire hopper in under 20 seconds! When properly upgraded and adjusted with fresh tournament quality paint and a good barrel with a good ID match, this thing can shoot nails! What more could you ask for? To recap there is a simple rule:
If you aren't truly serious about the game, do yourself a favor and don't buy this marker. However, if you are getting more into the sport, looking at tourneys, and consider yourself worthy of utilizing the best, go for it! Poor artists with the best paintbrushes simply put them to waste. Great Artists with the best paintbrushes make masterpieces.
Part IV Is the Autococker better than a Mag?
I won't even dignify this question with an answer longer than 1 sentence. I can't prove it is and nobody can disprove it.
Part V What is the best _ for an Autococker?
Simply put, the best is what works! If you slap a ss mini-ram on your gun with a tornado valve and it shoots like crap then it is crap, despite what anyone else says. Granted you need to give it the benefit of the doubt by having it properly installed and your gun tuned, but sometimes some things work for some people and don't for others. My best advice is to simply try it out and if it works great, if it doesn't, throw it in the toolbox!
Part VI How accurate is the Autococker?
Simply put, the Autococker is no more accurate than any other paintball gun that has the same quality paint to barrel match. Granted, if you have a perfect match with a Brass Eagle barrel with BE Paint you wont be as accurate as Marbalizer with a Boomstick or Proball with a Lapco, but generally speaking, that is what really affects accuracy. Over the years Autocockers have developed a reputation for accuracy. I attribute it to:
A. The stable shooting platform a closed bolt gun brings into the equation (less mass being moved around compared to a blowback semi as the bolt is not being moved)
B. The tendency for Autococker owners wanting to use only the BEST stuff on their guns (leading to buying a great barrel and shooting high quality paint, making sure that they match each other well)
C. Psychology. You pick up and Autococker, you expect it to shoot nails. It will shoot nails.
D. Usually, Autocockers weigh no less than a dry metric ton after being fully tricked out. This helps their stability during rapid fire.
Part VII Are Autocockers really unreliable?
Hahahahahahahahahahahah! YES! Only if you SCREW with it! This is a very simple assertion made by those who know Autocockers: If it works, don't mess with it, and it will keep working. A lot of dolts who buy Autocockers (including me) are tempted to rip it apart the 2nd day of shooting it to see how it works. This causes major problems unless you know exactly what you are doing. Let me tell you this. Until you really learn to play with an Autococker, how to fix it, how it works, what makes it work well, how to tune it, and when it's "time of the month" is coming, you will run into problems if you take it apart or in general, mess with it. After tuning my gun in August, I haven't had to fix or tune a single thing on it. All I did after a day of play is clean off the paint, oil it, and degas it. If you know what you are doing, an Autococker is a very reliable gun which is very picky about how it is treated.
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