The Enfield India Motorcycle Challenge
Enfield India Challenge trip report


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We arrived in Bombay at 2.45am local time, and had a 7 hour wait for our flight south to Trivandrum. I spent this time with a group of lads who had got together in London; Andy, a 41 year old refinery worker from Hull; a diminutive and quiet bike mechanic called Paul who rode a hardtail chop Harley in the UK; Paul, an older chap from Lancashire; John, a breathing apparatus expert from Farnham, and Kev, a roofer from Lincoln. A lot of leg pulling later we got on the Airbus to fly south to begin our trip.

The delay in setting off had caused havoc for the organisers; instead of the original plan, which involved a civic reception followed by a parade around Kottayam, the town in Kerala where we were to begin, plan B was to miss the short first day's ride and start 80 km up the road on the Tuesday morning.

pilgrims
The logistics of moving 150 Enfields 80 km without riders proved insurmountable however, and we reverted to plan A, but with the reception and parade on the Monday afternoon, followed by a very early start on the Tuesday morning.

We had a 5 hour bus trip to get to Kottayam from Trivandrum, and we were all pretty shattered. As we drove through the Indian countryside the memories of my last visit to India in 1990 came flooding back; the continuous line of businesses along the road, the tuk-tuks (motorised rickshaws), the sacred cows walking down the middle of the road, the noise, the dust. We arrived in Kottayam to be welcomed by banners everywhere proclaiming the coming of the Enfield Challenge riders from England - the locals waved, smiled and shouted greetings to us as we wound through the town to the parade ground where we were to begin.

Enfield Banner

Our fatigue evaporated as soon as we arrived at the parade ground - there they were, 150 shiny new Enfields in ranks, all ready to go. Each bike had a label on it with the rider's name and group on it. We were split into 6 groups by experience, and the top 2 groups would ride together , then the middle 2, then the novices bringing up the rear. I was in the middle group, which proved to be the quickest as the more experienced group contained the steadier, older riders and the novices were of wildly varying speed.

Ian's bike
Domestic model- Ian's is an export model

There were 2 models of bile all mixed together; the black domestic models with a plastic tank badge, and the export models for those of us who were bringing our bikes home,. These have chrome tanks with hand-painted Enfield logos, and a much longer, quieter, power-robbing exhaust.

I found the bike easy to start in the heat of the day; next morning I would fond a cold, dew-covered bike was rather more difficult to persuade into life! For the ride I teamed up with the rider next to me, Barney Dumbell, as it was decreed that you should each have a riding "buddy" who would stick with you in the event of a breakdown.

We sat through speeches by Seymour Thistlethwaite, head of Global Cancer Concern, by the MD of Enfield India, the Minister for Cultural affairs, and one of the doctors from the hospital who made a controversial speech about euthanasia in a society where opium-based painkillers were not allowed, and how GCC's work could turn this around.

After music from a traditional Keralan band and a parade of elephants with huge gold shields on their heads, it was time for the parade around the town. Unfortunately this coincided with the 5pm rush hour, so we all wobbled through the traffic, slipping the clutch as we went/ Of course an old English bike does not appreciate this treatment and I and may others soon found ourselves clutchless! I freewheeled back into the parade ground, 3km short of our final goal of the local Enfield dealers where the bikes would be spending the night. Luckily we had a full support crew form the Enfield factory with support trucks, an mobile workshop and a throng of mechanics so all the bikes were recovered to the dealership by the following morning.

we're not worthy!

After a quick beer and a bite to eat in the hotel we all retired to bed. We were sharing 3 to a room, and I found myself sharing a bed with an intense guy called John, who it transpired had been Ozzy Osborne's drummer when he first left Black Sabbath! His current hellraising life is as an architect, so it proves some old rockers made it through the sex and drugs and rock and roll! We locked the bathroom door to stop the rats which come up the drains, and got a few hours sleep before the alarm call at 3.15 the following morning.

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