We have found that certain modifications to the rear suspension on all A Body cars will cause wheel hop during hard acceleration. The use of air shocks or booster shocks (small springs mounted around the shocks) will almost always cause a wheel hop problem. These two devices keep the rear axle assembly from rotating through its normal arc under acceleration. The result is wheel bounce, and if not stopped immediately, broken transmission cases, U-joints, or rear axle assemblies can be expected. Additionally, drive trains that are severely out of alignment can also cause wheel hop. Such modifications as raising the rear of the car much higher than the front, or raising the entire car (ala eight foot tall 4X4s with 8 or more lights on the cab) will also cause or increase wheel hop.

Try to Keep your car level and no higher than stock (lowering doesn't seem to hurt). If your springs are weak and you don't wish to replace them, TRW sells solid plastic spring spacers that work well and are permanent. They are called "coil spring stabilizers", and the shortest (for front only) is TRW part # J600. In increasing length, they have J650, J700, J750, J800, and for rear only, J850, J900, and J950. They are sold in pairs for one spring. You may have to use fuel line hose clamps on the spring to keep the stabilizers from walking in the springs. Of course when you add spring spacers, you increase spring rate which causes a slightly firmer ride, but the TRW units work and last.

I have personally worked with approximately 20 A Body cars (64 & later) that have ran as quick as mid 11's at the drag strip and none required any traction device, anti-hop bars, or other add-on devices for wheel hop control. Stock type shocks and a relatively level car is all that we have needed. Some of the add on devices may help, but we have no experience with them. Drag style shocks such as 90-10 are not needed, and if they are used, don't drive on the street with them on your car. In our experience, removing sway bars do not improve traction, and in fact, cause the car to launch with one side of the body higher than the other. Front sway bars are not tightly connected to the frame, and thus do not inhibit normal rise of the front on acceleration. Leave them on and our car will launch much straighter! I also run a rear sway bar to try to keep the car level (side-to-side) on launch!

Leaf type suspensions can present some traction problems. As I have very little experience with leaf spring cars, I have no advice on improving traction with leaf springs.