ACROSS MINDANAO


DAY 3 - April 27,2000 Thursday

Departure from Butuan

The well paved road to Surigao City

On the morning of the third day of my trip across Mindanao, I went to the Butuan integrated bus terminal for the next leg of my trip. The Butuan integrated bus terminal is the only drawback of the city I'm afraid. Although the building is relatively new, the roads are sorry sight. It was muddy and unpaved. The city government should pave the roads in this terminal  and keep it clean since this is where a visitor gets its first impression of the city. This was in 2000 so I hope today, improvement has been implemented. At the Butuan terminal you can board buses to Davao, Cagayan de Oro and Surigao. I took the bus to SURIGAO City, my next destination. The road to Surigao, also part of the Pan Philippine Maharlika Highway, is well paved compared to the previous roads I've been through the previous days. The zigzagging road with the mountains on one side and the sea on the other was a majestic sight. The view of Lake Mainit welcomed me to the province of Surigao. Despite the 4 hour trip, the scenic panorama along the way made the whole trip pleasant, even on a bus.

I believe that the best scenery if your traveling along the countryside is the combination of the mountain and the sea. It feels like that you are the connection between sea and land whenever you pass through. The cool sea breeze gently hitting your face while viewing the towering green colored peaks is a very refreshing experience. By this time I never regretted my decision to embark on this journey.

SURIGAO CITY- Surigao City, "the Gateway to Mindanao", is the capital of Surigao del Norte and is part of the CARAGA region. The ferry landing terminal in Lipata links Mindanao to Luzon through Leyte and Samar. It is also one of the cleanest city I've been to in Mindanao. The Surigao City integrated bus terminal is the best terminal I've seen to so far. The roads are well paved, the place is clean and there is an efficient transfer transport to the city proper and other destinations. The PHILTRANCO regularly stop her on the way to Davao, Cagayan de Oro or Manila. The neatness of Surigao's bus terminal is continued in the city. There is only one hotel here worth recommending and that is the GATEWAY HOTEL (tel (6386) 826 1283/ 232 4257). The plaza has big centuries old narra trees to give shade to a tired traveler. Life in Surigao is more laid back compared to BUTUAN. Surigao is blessed with a moderate weather all year round since it is not on the typhoon path.

The SURIGAO City Hall

SURIGAO CITY offers many tourist destinations and activities. In the City, the DAY-ASAN Floating Barangay is known as the Venice of Surigao City. An internet site describes further ."Here houses are built along shallow water lanes amidst carefully selected mangrove clearings. It has water channels, instead of roads, and small bancas or river boats instead of wheeled vehicles. Purok centers, where local folks congregate to discuss issues or conduct meetings are located in the midst of the waterways. They are all circular in shape and have "salakot" type roofing. Day-asan is about two miles from the city proper." In the city also, one can see a replica of the American liberty bell which is housed at the Provincial Capitol. PUNTA BULUARTE in Barangay San Jose is a historical landmark which was used as observatory point by the Spanish Friars and later by the Japanese during the second World War. A place where Fr. Francisco de Paulas Sanchez, S.J. stayed for more than a month on scientific expedition on April 24, 1887 collecting rare marine fauna. It is a hill overlooking the town and the surrounding waters and islands, which to date is simply marked by maroon castle replica. Complementing the landmark is the brightly colored kiosks along the beach which provide an ideal picnic and resting area. Punta Baluarte is in Barangay San Jose, about one hour ride by pumpboat from the city proper. MAHARLIKA BEACH RESORT in Lipata is a beach with grayish fine sand, situated 10 kms. Northeast of Surigao City proper. It offers a panoramic view of the City's coastline. It is one of the most popular convention centers in CARAGA Region. Floating cottages, fresh sea foods are the special features of the resort. While staying in the resort, one can go for swimming, boating, snorkeling and fishing.

Surigao City annually showcases in full regalia its distinct cultural heritage through the " Bonok Bonok Maradjao Karadjao Festival ", held every second week of September. The day long festival marks the annual city fiesta celebration. The main feature is the Bonok-Bonok , an ethnic Mamanua Dance performed by the natives during "Kahimonan" (Fiesta) workshop and wedding ceremonies.

The province of SURIGAO DEL SUR also offers tourist destinations and diverse activities. Its long shoreline, beautiful beaches, challenging waves, natural cave formations offers nature lovers plenty of activities from swimming to surfing to scuba diving to mountain trekking to spelunking to rock climbing. But probably the most popular tourist destination in Surigao is an island on the east known as the surfing capital of the Philippines, SIARGAO. "Gen. Luna Beach in Siargao Island is a bewitching 27 kilometer stretch of sugar white beaches, sapphire blue seas and natural coral barrier that keep the inlet waters placid. At high tide, tube- like waves from the Pacific Ocean can be heard and seen. A perfect destination for surfing during the months of November to January and island-hopping adventure during March to June ." (This is the description of Sairgao in an internet site.) The most famous area in Gen. Luna is CLOUD 9 (named after a local chocolate bar) mainly because of its world class waves. Is the site of an international surfing competition held regularly in September or October. SOYONGAN beach is also known for its challenging waves. In Siargao, there are plenty of beach resorts to choose from but I recommend the BALANGHAI Surf and Beach Resort (owned by Art's uncle) They have 12 room beach cottages facing the ocean and they offer tour packages.

Another tourist destination in Surigao is DINAGAT Island situated on the northeastern part of the province. Its enchanting caves, magnificent rock formations and mountain lakes provides a perfect ambience for the thrill seeker and highly-strung individuals. The SAN ROQUE and HAGAKGAK Rock Formations in Basilisa is well known for its natural carved rock formations that resembles a melting candle, a duck and an eagle. Those who fancy cliff hanging and rock climbing will surely enjoy scaling these formations. Another island, BUCAS GRANDE offers the beautiful SOHOTON CAVE, a half-submerged cave accessible only during low tide. Inside is a lagoon surrounded by lush vegetation.

In Surigao mainland itself, the top tourist destinations for local residents is LAKE MAINIT (Warm Lake) , a 17,000 hectare inland freshwater lake is the fourth largest lake in the country. During summer it is filled with purplish bloom of water hyacinths and wild ducks. Meanwhile in town of EL CARMEN, its swamp area has a crocodile sanctuary which houses the biggest crocodiles in the country. These crocodiles can usually be found on its vast preserved mangrove forest. But if you are a history freak then the U.S. LANDING AVENUE is the place to go . It is a strategic area in the municipality of Loreto, Surigao del Norte where U.S. Liberators landed and fought against the Japanese Imperial Army stationed in the place. A few miles from the island in Surigao Strait, the historical Landmark where hundred of Japanese naval ships were sunk due to massive bombardment by U.S. planes in the famous BATTLE OF SURIGAO STRAIT during World War II.

I must admit I have not yet been to Siargao, Dinagat and Bucas Grande islands and all these facts are stories from friends and from travel brochures. Unfortunately my stay in Surigao City is very limited thus prevented me to further explore the said tourist destinations. But I am setting my sight on these famous islands, especially SIARGAO, one of these days.

The GATEWAY hotel conveniently located along the main highway, is a few blocks away from the Surigao Bus Terminal, a jeepney ride from the city proper and is at the junction going to the Lipata Ferry Terminal. The hotel is probably the only first class hotel in Surigao City and yet the room rates are reasonable enough (P700/ $13 a day for a single occupancy).  A very hospitable SURIGANON (a local resident) and a new found friend joined me at dinner and told me of the tourist destinations in Surigao. 


DAY 4, April 28, 2000 Friday

If you are going to Leyte driving your own vehicle, then the LIPATA ferry terminal is the place to go to. Here is where the PHILTRANCO buses board ferries to Leyte and onward to Manila. I've been to many ferry terminal and this is the cleanest that I've seen so far compared to the terminals in Samar and Matnog. What a nice way to give a first impression for first time travelers to Mindanao, disembarking on a nice and clean port. I guess its cleanliness is due to the fact that it is privately run (by PHILTRANCO) and I hope that it is still well maintained at present. The big ferry boats load buses, trucks, cars on a first come first served basis but PHILTRANCO buses have more priority since they own the ferry service. Only the Maharlika ferry docks at Lipata. But if you are bound for Cebu (which I was then), then the City pier is the port to proceed to. Here is where the SUPERCAT Ferry docks. The SUPERCAT is a new and fast ferry catamaran boat that plies the Surigao-Maasin, Leyte-Cebu route as well as order destinations in the Visayas. The interior and amenities of the ferry is just like an airplane with TV and kiosk bar for the passenger's comfort.  Another firm, the New Frontiers WaterJet also offers a fast ferry service from Surigao City to Cebu once a day. Unfortunately, the last time I heard, the ferry service from Surigao to Cebu (and vice versa) have been suspended indefinitely. So travelers today have no choice but to take the Maharlika ferry at LIPATA which travels at a much lower pace.

the Supecat ferry

The SUPERCAT ferry from Surigao to Cebu stops at Maasin, Leyte midway. Total travel time was approximately 3 hours (1 hour to Maasin and 2 hours to Cebu). I was fortunate enough to travel on a good weather which made the whole trip was smooth sailing. But my seatmate told me of tales of travel during rough seas especially when there is a typhoon. The SUPERCAT easily managed the strong seas but it can be very sickening and scary as strong waves rock the ferry left and right.

The SUPERCAT which was supposed to leave Surigao by 1 pm arrived at 1:30 pm in the pier which meant that my departure would be delayed as the disembarking of the incoming passengers and the boarding of the outgoing passengers would take time. But I was surprised that we were off by 2 pm. They had an efficient boarding system and since no big cargo was being loaded, the whole process was completed in half an hour.  So the hour delay was not irritating at all since I entertained myself by watching all the other people do their own business for the day. The porters haggling and begging to carry the luggage of the passengers; the guards checking the boarding pass and tickets; the muscular port workers securing the mooring rope; vendors selling different native "pasalubongs"; shoeshine boys offering to clean your shoes ; the relatives crying and waving to their departing loved ones and  little boys diving the murky sea for the peso coins thrown by the amused passengers. This is the same scene at other sea ports throughout the country. It seems that life is at full pace whenever a ferry docks in any pier.

We slowly drifted away from Surigao City pier as we started our journey. By this time I realized that I have traveled almost half of Mindanao in 3 days. How I wished that I could stayed longer and traveled farther. I can only hope that I can return to this place and explore it more. How I wish I could travel to eastern side of Mindanao; to TANDAG, the capital of Surigao del Sur or to MATI, Davao Oriental. Or if I had my own 4x4 vehicle, then I can go to the deepest part of this territory. It seems that leisurely pace of the ferry sendoff makes one ponder.

The ferry was not full of passengers so I was expecting a more relaxing trip. The SUPERCAT is staffed by friendly attendants. They are there to see that you are comfortable during the trip. At the start of the trip, a video is shown on how to use the life vests and the exit points in case of an emergency (just like in the airplanes) and then a prayer is said over the audio system. Snacks and soda drinks are sold during the trip and served by charming stewardesses. The cabin is fully airconditioned and the seats are comfortable (just like in the airplanes).

Maasin, Leyte

MAASIN -We arrived at Maasin, Leyte after an hour for a brief stopover. The very noticeable point in Maasin for travelers is the big statue of the Virgin Mary atop a hill overlooking the sea. She seemed to be warmly welcoming visitors to this eastern Visayan island. Disembarking and boarding of passengers was fast and swift. And so after half an hour, we were off again.

By this time I thought the whole trip was uneventful until minor problems interrupted the leisurely cruising speed of the ferry. Flooding in the engine room caused our ferry to stop in the middle of the sea but reassuring words form the captain eased our nerves. We were off and running again after a few minutes. The route passed by several islands which I wished we were more closer to so that I can see its beautiful shorelines.

We arrived at the channel between Mactan island and Cebu late in afternoon. At this point ,the ferry slowed down since they are mandated by the coast guard to travel at snail pace speed. The SUPERCAT reached Cebu in the pier late in the afternoon.  As soon as the ferry docked, I hurriedly disembarked and raced off to the nearest PAL ticketing office to rebook my flight to Manila. 

CEBU is the Queen city of the South , the center of trade in the Visayas and the oldest city in the Philippines. Cebu is getting more modernized with numerous real property developments. SM malls, Ayala Center and Robinson's Mall compete with local Gaisano malls; upclass subdivisions are rising , and  5 Star hotels abound; all signs of rapid metropolitan  development. But it is also blessed with beautiful beaches in nearby Mactan.

As I boarded the PAL  AirbusA330 bound for Manila, I just realized I had an exciting four days of traveling, an experience that would probably cherish for a long time.  


PART 1

HOME