May-15-1990 v2.0 WARNING - These files are for study purposes only! I take absolutely NO responsibility for loss of life or limb, or damage to property, due to the improper use of these files. Anyhow...have at it! TABLE OF CONTENTS Rebel Alliance Megcatline ..................................... 1 Firebombs ..................................................... 1 Napalm ........................................................ 1 Match Head Bomb ............................................... 2 Fuse Ignition Firebomb ........................................ 2 Napalm Made Easy .............................................. 2 Gunpowder ..................................................... 3 Ammonal ....................................................... 3 Chemically Ignited Explosives (Exp 1-5) ....................... 4 Thermite Reaction ............................................. 4 Mercury (II) Fulminate ........................................ 5 Nitrogen Triiodide ............................................ 5 Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton) ................................. 5 Acetone Hydrogen Explosive .................................... 6 Smoke, Smoke, Smoke... ........................................ 6 Plastic Explosives ............................................ 7 Creation of Thermite .......................................... 8 How to Make a 'Real' Pipe Bomb ................................ 9 Jug Band Bomb ................................................ 11 TNT (Trinitrotoluene) ........................................ 11 Nitroglycerine ............................................... 13 Dynamite ..................................................... 14 Detonating Dynamite and TNT .................................. 15 Bomb Containers .............................................. 15 Polish Flairs ................................................ 15 Household Chemicals and Their Composition .................... 16 Generating Chlorine Gas ...................................... 16 Chlorine and Turpentine ...................................... 16 Generating Hydrogen Gas ...................................... 16 Hydrogen and Chlorine ........................................ 17 Iodine ....................................................... 17 Grain Elevator Explosion ..................................... 17 Where to Find Chemicals ...................................... 17 Acetone Peroxide Explosive ................................... 18 Fertilizer/Hydrazine Liquid Explosives ....................... 19 RDX Explosive ................................................ 20 Mini-Compound Detonators ..................................... 21 Potassium Chlorate/Sugar Ignitor ............................. 23 Stink Bomb ................................................... 24 Cordite ...................................................... 25 Page 1 REBEL ALLIANCE MEGCATLINE Materials: 79 Cent Bic lighter Needle-nose pliers Tin snips or wire cutters Procedure: First, rip the metal windguard off the lighter with the pliers and then then twist the little flame adjuster all the way to the right, and keep twisting until it won't move up anymore (stop and twist back if it starts hissing). There is a gap between the flame adjust and the plastic push-thing (it moves the nozzle up). You then flatten the wind-guard out and snip a notch in it big enough to fit around the nozzle. What you will do is you will fit the metal piece in the slot between the flame adjust and the plastic or the ring around the nozzle, which ever shows. The metal should be bent down, like the hose on a fire extinguisher. make sure the 'handle' is snug. You should glue carefully. You then hold the lighter backwards from how you would normally hold it, thumb-tab away. You will strike with your index finger. Practice. Depress the handle with your thumb. Strike, and have instant hell-fire! Enjoy! 旼컴컴컴컴컴컴컴커 � Bombs � � � � By: Lex Luthor � 읕컴컴컴컴컴컴컴켸 FIREBOMBS Most fire bombs are simply gasoline filled bottles with a fuel soaked rag in the mouth (the bottle's mouth, not yours). The original Molotov cocktail, and still about the best, was a mixture of one part gasoline and one part motor oil. The oil helps it to cling to what it splatters on. Some use one part roofing tar and one part gasoline. Fire bombs have been found which were made by pouring melted wax into gasoline. NAPALM About the best fire bomb is napalm. It has a thick consistency, like jam and is best for use on vehicles or buildings. Napalm is simply one part gasoline and one part soap. The soap is either soap flakes or shredded bar soap. Detergents won't do. Page 2 The gasoline must be heated in order for the soap to melt. The usual way is with a double boiler where the top part has at least a two-quart capacity. The water in the bottom part is brought to a boil and the double boiler is taken from the stove and carried to where there is no flame. Then one part, by volume, of gasoline is put in the top part and allowed to heat as much as it will and the soap is added and the mess is stirred until it thickens. A better way to heat gasoline is to fill a bath tub with water as hot as you can get it. It will hold its heat longer and permit a much larger container than will the double boiler. MATCH HEAD BOMB Simple safety match heads in a pipe, capped at both ends, make a devastating bomb. It is set off with a regular fuse. A plastic baggie is put into the pipe before the heads go in to prevent detonation by contact with the metal. Cutting enough match heads to fill the pipe can be tedious work for one but an evening's fun for the family if you can drag them away from the TV. FUSE IGNITION FIRE BOMB A four strand home made fuse is used for this. It burns like fury. It is held down and concealed by a strip of bent tin cut from a can. The exposed end of the fuse is dipped into the flare igniter. To use this one, you light the fuse and hold the fire bomb until the fuse has burned out of sight under the tin. Then throw it and when it breaks, the burning fuse will ignite the contents. 旼컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴커 � Napalm Made Easy � � � � By Sir Knight � 읕컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴켸 Napalm is in itself a very simple substance... It can be used for many things (i.e. getting back at your neighbour!!). Here's what you need: Materials: Gasoline Joy or Palmolive (I prefer Joy) Ammonia pellets Drill Coke can Bendable wire Nail Procedure: First, make a mixture of 1/2 Joy, and 1/2 gasoline. Take the Coke can, and fill it half full with this wonderful mixture. It should look like this: Page 3 �^�^�^�^�^�^�^� � � � � <- Coke can � � 쿦XXXXXXXXXXXX� 쿦XXXXXXXXXXXX� 쿦XXXXXXXXXXXX� <-Mixture 쿦XXXXXXXXXXXX� 읕컴컴컴컴컴컴� Now, take the drill (or some sharp object) and put a hole through the ammonia pellet big enough for the nail. Put the nail through the pellet (which I might add can be picked up at any farm supply store) and wire that to the top of the can so the nail can be slipped out easily, allowing the pellet to drop. WARNING: Do not let that pellet fall into the mixture, as your wife will soon become a widow. 旼컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� � CHEMIST'S CORNER ARTICLE #1: EXPLOSIVES � 읕컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� By Zaphod Beeblebrox/MPG THIS ARTICLE DEALS WITH THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CREATING SOME DANGEROUS EXPLOSIVES. IF YOU INTEND TO MAKE ANY OF THESE EXPLOSIVES, DO SO IN SMALL AMOUNTS ONLY, AS THEY ARE ALL DANGEROUS AND COULD SERIOUSLY INJURE OR KILL YOU IF DONE IN LARGER AMOUNTS. IF YOU DON'T KNOW ANYTHING ABOUT CHEMISTRY, DON'T DO THESE EXPERIMENTS! I AM NOT JOKING IN GIVING THIS WARNING. UNLESS YOU HAVE A DEATH WISH, YOU SHOULDN'T TRY ANY OF THE FOLLOWING UNLESS YOU HAVE HAD PRIOR EXPERIENCE WITH CHEMICALS. I. COMMON "WEAK" EXPLOSIVES A) Gunpowder: 75% Potassium Nitrate 15% Charcoal 10% Sulfur The chemicals should be ground into a file powder (separately!) with a morter and pestle. If gunpowder is ignited in the open, it burns fiercely, but if in a closed space it builds up pressure from the released gases and can explode the container. Gunpowder works like this: The potassium nitrate oxidizes the charcoal and sulfur, which then burns fiercely. Carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide are the gases released. B) Ammonal: Ammonal is a mixture of ammonium nitrate (a strong oxidizer) with aluminum powder (the 'fuel' in this case). I am not sure of the percentage of composition for ammonial, so you may want to experiment a little using small amounts. Page 4 C) Chemically Ignited Explosives: Experiment 1: A mixture of 1 part potassium chlorate to 3 parts table sugar (sucrose) burns fiercely and brightly (similar to the burning of magnesium) when 1 drop of concentrated sulfuric acid is placed on it. What occurs is this: when the acid is added it reacts with the potassium chlorate to form chlorine dioxide, which explodes on formation, burning the sugar as well. Experiment 2: Using various chemicals, I have developed a mixture that works very well for imitating volcanic eruptions. I have given it the name 'MPG Volcanite'. Here it is: Potassium chlorate + potassium perchlorate + ammonium nitrate + ammonium dichromate + potassium nitrate + sugar + sulfur + iron filings + charcoal + zinc dust + some coloring agent. (Scarlet = strontium nitrate, Purple = Iodine crystals, Yellow = Sodium chloride, Crimson = Calcium chloride, etc). Experiment 3: So, do you think water puts out fires? In this one, it starts it! Mixture: Ammonium nitrate + ammonium chloride + iodine + zinc dust. When a drop or two of water is added, the ammonium nitrate forms nitric acid which reacts with the zinc to produce hydrogen and heat. The heat vaporizes the iodine (giving off purple smoke) and the ammonium chloride (becomes purple when mixed with iodine vapor). It also may ignite the hydrogen and begin burning. Ammonium nitrate: 8g Ammonium chloride: 1g Zinc dust: 8g Iodine crystals: 1g Experiment 4: Potassium permanganate + glycerine when mixed produces a purple-coloured flame in 30 seconds to 1 minute. Works best if the potassium permanganate is finely ground. Experiment 5: Calcium carbide + water releases acetylene gas (highly flammable gas used in blow torches). II. THERMITE REACTION The thermite reaction is used in welding, because it generates molten iron and temperatures of 3500 C (6000F+). It uses one of the previous reactions that I talked about to start it! Starter = Potassium chlorate + Sugar Main Part = Iron (III) oxide + Aluminum powder (325 mesh or finer) Page 5 Put the potassium chlorate + sugar around and on top of the main part. To start the reaction place one drop of concentrated sulfuric acid on top of the starter mixture. Step back! The ratios are: 3 parts iron (III) oxide to 1 part aluminum powder to 1 part potassium chlorate to 1 part sugar. When you first do it, try 3G:1G:1G:1G! Also, there is an alternative starter for the thermite reaction. The alternative is potassium Permanganate + Glycerine. Amount: 55g Iron(III) oxide, 15g aluminum powder, 25g potassium permanganate, 6ml glycerine. III. NITROGEN-CONTAINING HIGH EXPLOSIVES A) Mercury (II) Fulminate To produce mercury (II) Fulminate, a very sensitive shock explosive, one might assume that it could be formed by adding fulminic acid to mercury. This is somewhat difficult since fulminic acid is very unstable and cannot be purchased. I did some research and figured out a way to make it without fulminic acid. You add 2 parts nitric acid to 2 parts alcohol to 1 part mercury. This is theoretical (I have not yet tried it) so please, if you try this, do it in VERY small amounts and tell me the results. B) Nitrogen Triiodide Nitrogen Triiodide is a very powerful and very shock sensitive explosive. Never store it and be careful when you're around it; sound, air movements, and other tiny things could set it off. Materials: 2-3g Iodine 15ml Concentrated ammonia 8 Sheets of filter paper 50ml beaker Feather mounted on a two meter pole Ear Plugs Tape Spatula Stirring Rod Procedure: Add 2-3g iodine to 15ml ammonia in the 50ml beaker. Stir, let stand for 5 minutes. Do the following within 5 minutes: Retain the solid, decant the liquid (pour off the liquid but keep the brown solid). Scrape the brown residue of nitrogen triiodide onto a stack of four sheets of filter paper. Divide solid into four parts, putting each on a separate sheet of dry filter paper. Tape in position, leave to dry undisturbed for at least 30 minutes (preferably longer). To detonate, touch with feather (wear ear plugs when detonating or cover ears; it is very loud!). C) Cellulose Nitrate (Guncotton) Commonly known as smokeless powder, nitrocellulose is exactly that; it does not give off smoke when it burns. Page 6 Materials: 70ml Concentrated sulfuric acid 30ml Concentrated nitric acid 5g Absorbent cotton 250ml 1M Sodium bicarbonate 250ml beaker Ice bath Tongs Paper towels Procedure: Place 250ml beaker in the ice bath, add 70ml sulfuric acid, 30ml nitric acid. Divide cotton into 0.7g pieces. With tongs, immerse each piece in the acid solution for 1 minute. Next, rinse each piece in 3 successive baths of 500ml water. Use fresh water for each piece. Then immerse in 250ml 1M Sodium Bicarbonate. If it bubbles, rinse in water once more until no bubbling occurs. Squeeze dry and spread on paper towels, compress it into cakes or blocks or gelatanize it with acetone. This is powerful stuff! D) Acetone Hydrogen Explosive: Materials: 4ml Acetone 4ml 30% hydrogen peroxide 4 Drops concentrated hydrochloric acid 150mm test tube Add 4ml acetone and 4ml hydrogen peroxide to the test tube. Then add 4 drops concentrated hydrochloric acid. In 10-20 minutes a white solid should begin to appear. If no change is observed, warm the test tube in a water bath at 40 Celsius. Allow the reaction to continue for two hours. Swirl the slurry and filter it. Leave out on filter paper to dry for at least two hours. To ignite, light a candle tied to a meter stick and light it (while standing at least a meter away). E) Smoke, Smoke, Smoke... The following reaction should produce a fair amount of smoke. Since this reaction is not all the dangerous, you can use larger amounts if necessary for larger amounts of smoke. 6g Zinc powder 1g Sulfur Powder Insert a red hot wire into the pile, step back. A lot of smoke should be created. Page 7 旼컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� � RECIPE FOR A STANDARD PLASTIC EXPLOSIVE � 읕컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� Method A: Materials: Gasoline - 1 part Oil - 1 half part Styrofoam - 1 part 1) Melt styrofoam (remember NEVER at ANY time let the mixture get too hot)! NOTE: Do NOT inhale the fumes - they are deady! 2) Let cool to a thick viscosity. 3) Mix 3 ingredients together in the following order: Styrofoam, oil, & gas. 4) Mix in a deep pot - Keep mixture away from any type of fire! Do this step with extreme caution! 5) Let the mixture cool to a little bit warmer that room temperature, which is around 88 degrees Fahrenheit. 6) Mold the mixture how you want (different shapes will make it more or less lethal). Dr. Booms Method: Materials: 20ml gasoline 5-10 plastic bags 10ml oil or starter fluid 50ml beaker or glass bowl gunpowder, guncotton or acetone hydrogen Procedure: Pour gas in glass container and add bags to gas and dissolve until fairly thick vicosity like melted marshmallow (actually, marshmallows would probably work just as well or better than plastic bags!) and add oil. Add bags again until very thick. Add the guncotton and mix well. Keep on adding strips of plastic until no more will dissolve and then pour in a mold. NOTE: It would a good idea to heat this stuff with a double boiler. Optional: You can add nuts, bolts, and screws while mixing, along with gunpowder, 2 M-80's or any other type of explosive to make it the equivalent of a Molotov cocktail, but be warned: The fragments (nuts, bolts, etc.) are deadly. They will penetrate a brick wall when the mixture is detonated. Page 8 Detonation: 1) The mixture can be thrown, but sometimes detonation does not occur. 2) The mixture can be wired for an electric charge to be sent through it. It will detonate without doubt. A regular fuse can be sent through it also. If this method is used, some sort of timer is recommended. 旼컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� � CREATION OF THERMITE! � 읕컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� By Grey Wolf Thermite is a powerful substance which can burn through practically anything, save tungsten. It is especially of use in trying to crack open a fortress fone. How here's how you make it. It is very simple. The first step in making thermite is to make hematite. In laymans's terms, Hemetite is iron oxide (rust). Here is a good method of making large quantities of rust. You will electrolyze a metal rod, such as a common nail. You will need a source of DC power as well. An electric train transformer is perfect. Attach the rod to the positive wire. Then place the rod and the negative wire in opposite sides of a glass jar filled with water. Put a little salt in the water, just enough to make it conduct well (a teaspoon). Let the setup sit overnight. In the morning, there will be a dark red crud in the jar. Filter all the crud out of the water of just fish it out will a spoon. Now you will need to dry it out. Heat it in an iron pot until it all turns a nice light red. The other ingredient you will need is aluminum filings. You can either file down a bar of aluminum, or (as I suggest), but aluminum filings at your local hardware shop (if you buy the bar, use no less than 94% pure aluminum - it is called duralumin). That's almost it! Now, mix together the rust and aluminum filings. The ratio should be 8 grams of rust per 3 grams of aluminum filings. That's thermite! Now, to light it! Stick a length of magnesium ribbon in a pile of the thermite (either steal it from a chem lab or buy it at your local hardware store). If not, order from a chemical supply house. It's pretty cheap). The ribbon should stick into the thermite like a fuse. Now you light the magnesium with a blowtorch (don't worry, the torch isn't hot enough to light the thermite). When the burning magnesium reaches the thermite, it will light. When the thermite burns, get the hell back! That stuff can vaporize carbon steel, and it does wonders on human flesh! Page 9 旼컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� � HOW TO MAKE A 'REAL' � � [> PIPE BOMB <] � 읕컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� By Shootz Bootz This file was written for INFORMATION PURPOSES ONLY, and NOT for illegal use. The writer cannot be held responsible for anything you do to yourself!!!! If there are any spelling or grammatical errors, then FUCK OFF AND DIE cause I don't really care... my point is driven across. Well first of all in order to make a pipe bomb , you must first have a pipe. It doesn't matter how big, or how small, you could use a 1 inch copper pipe, or you could use a 2 foot long drainage pipe. Once you have this, you will need a few ingredients first. These ingredients make a substance called 'flash powder'. This can be a lot of fun if you make a pile of it about 1/4 lbs. and have your friend light it with a match (some friend). Well, here's what you need: 1> Potassium Chlorate (get it at any chemical store) 2> Powdered Charcoal (not briquets, take some ash from the fire place) 3> Powdered Magnesium (ground up mag. fire starters from camping sections) 4> Sulfur (you know where to get this!) 5> Some kind of piping 6> Hot glue gun, or melted glue 7> Small drill bit and drill 8> Tissue paper (ie. Kleenex) 9> Mist water bottle + sprayer (Windex bottle, etc..) The magnesium has to be FINE!!! The finer the faster! You can get them in the camping sections of Caldor, and Sears. They look like a block of aluminum on a key chain ($5.00 - $7.00 butthey go a long way!). Now that you have the stuff, start the work. Find a drill bit about the size of a pencil point, and drill a small hole about dead center of the pipe, only drill thru one side of the pipe, don't drill both sides. Now you should have a piece of pipe, with a small hole drilled into it. After this, take some hot glue (hot glue gun or such). Take a piece of regular paper (not tissue) and stuff it into one end of the pipe, so it plugs up the hole, and is about 2cm into the pipe. Now fill that end with melted glue over the paper, so its about even with the pipe, and sit that down on another piece of paper. Now you should have a pipe with a small hole in the center, and one end with about 2 cm of glue on it, and 2 pieces of paper on either side of the glue. So far so good... now for the flash powder. Pour in the potassium chlorate (largest amount). Then pour in the charcoal (a little less than the chlorate). Pour this stuff into a grinding plate, not the pipe. Now for the magnesium you filed off the block and ground up finally, make this a bit less than the charcoal amount. Lastly add the sulphur, only a little though, about half as much as the magnesium you just put in. Now grind all the ingredients together until they look like 1 grey dust. Try a little bit (no not the whole damn thing! save that for the fun later!). Light it and see how fast it goes off. Your gonna have to fiddle with it until it turns out the Page 10 fastest (sounds like something else eh?). Now that you have the flash powder ready, stick a piece of tape over the small hole you drilled (so nothing spills out). Put the pipe over a sheet of regular paper so you don't loose any of this precious flash powder and start to poor it into the pipe. One the pipe seems full, place a piece of paper over the opening in that end, and pack that piece of paper, and the powder down into the pipe. Take the paper out, and pour more powder in. Keep doing his until its very well packed, and its almost full! Make sure that the flash powder fills above the small hole you drilled! Now put a piece of paper over the powder, and give it one last pack (a small rod, and a hammer will do just fine, but make sure you don't get any sparks!!). After that, pour in your final glue in the end you just packed, make sure it fills to about 2 cm of glue in that end, over the paper! Stick another piece of paper over that end (just glued) and let it dry, but when drying put it on a flat surface so it hardens flat! While your waiting for it to dry, take your tissue paper, and lie it down flat on the table, over a piece of cardboard or something if its a good table!! Now mix some water with the flash powder (about 1/2-1/2 mix). No it won't kill the powder. Now shake up the bottle, and spray the tissue paper with the mixture Let it dry, and repeat the sequence. After about 4 shots on 1 side, repeat on the other side (flip the tissue paper). Continue this until your liking. When this is done, and the tissue paper is dry, tear/cut off a small sheet, roll it, and light it. If you like it, then fine, if not, then keep spraying it. If you like to, before rolling it, pour in some flash powder (not too much!!!) and roll it like a joint. Then twist it. You now have a fuse (really?!?!). Make sure its long!! Now for the final assembly. Take the tape off the small hole you drilled, and poke thru the powder with a pencil point/ice pick or whatever (or the drill bit!). If you REALLY want to, then put a drop of glue to hold the fuse in better, but you don't have to!! (not too much!). Now make sure the glue has hardened for about 1 hour or so until its rock hard (no ideas!). You are now the proud owner of a home made PIPE BOMB. Great for parties/special occasions, weddings, Russians, mail boxes and anything else you want to do. When you light this bomb, point the end in the direction you are gonna be running in, and don't throw it (unless your crazy, and in that case, I don't give a shit!) so it doesn't frag in your face!! If you really want to fancy it up, you can always use threaded steel end caps!!!!!! Well I hope you enjoyed your fun today, and happy bomb making! Be safe (hehehe) Page 11 郞袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴� � THE JUG BAND BOMB � � BY: THE GRAY MOUSER � 突袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴袴� This one is short and sweet: 1) Get hold of a glass jug, put in a few drops of gasoline and cap the top. 3) Now turn the jug around to coat the inner surfaces and evaporates. 4) Add a few drops of potassium permanganate (you can get this real easy from a snake-bite kit). 5) The bomb is detonated by throwing or forcibly rolling it against a solid object. When this sucker goes off, it is the same as half stick of dynamite. 旼컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� � HOW TO MAKE TNT � 읕컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� Probably the most important explosive compound in use today is TNT (trinitrotoluene). This and other very similar types of high ex- plosives are all used by the military, because of their fantastic power, about 2.25 millions pounds per square inch, and their great stability. TNT also has the great advantage of being able to be melted at 82 degrees F., so that it can be poured into shells, mortars, or any other projectiles. Military TNT comes in containers which resemble dry cell batteries, and are usually ignited by an electrical charge, coupled with an electrical blasting cap, although there are other methods. Preparation of TNT: 1 - Take two beakers. In the first prepare a solution of 76 percent sulfuric acid, 23 percent nitric acid and 1 percent water. In the other beaker, prepare another solution of 57 percent nitric acid and 43 percent sulfuric acid (percentages are on a weight ratio rather than volume). 2 - Ten grams of the first solutions are poured into an empty beaker and placed in an ice bath. 3 - Add ten grams of toluene, and stir for several minutes. 4 - Remove this beaker from the ice bath and gently heat until it reaches 50 degrees C. The solution is stirred constantly while being heated. 5 - Fifty additional grams of the acid, from the first beaker, are added and the temperature is held for the next ten minutes, and an oily liquid will begin to form on the top of the acid. Page 12 6 - After 10 or 12 minutes, the acid solution is returned to the ice bath, and cooled to 45 degrees C. When reaching this temperature, the oily liquid will sink and collect at the bottom of the beaker. At this point, the remaining acid solution should be drawn off, by using a syringe. 7 - Fifty more grams of the first acid solution are added to the oily liquid while the temperature is SLOWLY being raised to 83 degrees C. After this temperature is reached, it is maintained for a full half hour. 8 - At the end of this period, the solution is allowed to cool to 60 degrees C, and is held at this temperature for another full half hour. After this, the acid is again drawn off, leaving once more only the oily liquid at the bottom. 9 - Thirty grams of sulfuric acid are added, while the oily liquid is gently heated to 80 degrees C. All temperature increases must be accomplished slowly and gently. 10 - Once the desired temperature is reached, 30 grams of the second acid solution are added, and the temperature is raised from 80 degrees C to 104 degrees C, and is held for three hours. 11 - After this three hour period, the mixture is lowered to 100 degrees C and held there for a half hour. 12 - After this half hour, the oil is removed form the acid and washed with boiling water. 13 - After the washing with boiling water, while being stirred constantly, the TNT will begin to solidify. 14 - When the solidification has started, cold water is added to the beaker, so that the TNT will form into pellets. Once this is done, you have a good quality TNT. NOTE: The temperatures used in the preparation of TNT are EXACT, and must be used as such. DO NOT estimate or use approximations. Buy a good centigrade thermometer. The author take NO RESPONSIBILITY for any damage to persons or property for this formula. It is supplied for STUDY PURPOSES ONLY. Page 13 旼컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴커 � NITROGLYCERIN � 읕컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴켸 by Dr. Boom WARNING: This stuff is very dangerous, wear goggles at ALL times and for God's sake don't SNEEZE while making it! Materials: Glass bowl and glass rod Water (lots of it) Sulfuric acid Nitric Acid Glycerin Refrigerator Make sure you get a GLASS bowl and stirring rod. The Sulfuric acid and Nitric acid are about 5 bucks each at a chemical warehouse and you can get the glycerin from a clear, yellow/brown bar of soap from a health food store (i.e. - Cardish). Procedure: Carefully mix equal amounts of the acids in a glass bowl of 2 parts water to 3 parts of the mixture of acid. Put mixture and bar of glycerine soap in the fridge by the milk (don't freeze the damn thing!) and leave it for 2 hours. Since the mixture won't blow up until 15 C, the fridge's temp- erature (5 C) will prevent detonation (and we don't want THAT to happen, or at least not NOW). Shred the soap to a flaky powder and dissolve it in the acid solution (and KEEP it in the fridge ALWAYS, or ELSE!). Leave it in the fridge for 5 days (since this process takes a long time), and after 5 days you should have an oily yellow substance (which is quite lethal), and some liquid acid left. Skim off the excess acid to leave only the thick yellow gunk (nitro) and add lots of water to it (don't drown it or you're fucked) and put it back in the fridge until you need it - never keep it out of the fridge too long (and make sure it's not eaten for dinner). It can be detonated by dropping it, throwing it, shaking it, by sneezing on it, or with an electrical charge (such as a timer). You might want to soak it in sawdust or something similar so it won't blow up as easily if you happen to accidentally bump it or something. Page 14 旼컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� � DYNAMITE � 읕컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� by Dr. Boom DANGER: Dynamite is highly explosive (although great fun), and we suggest that if you actually attempt to make this - make it in very low quantities so you don't blow the roof off your house. Also use extreme caution if you live in an earthquake zone! Materials: thermometer glass bowls stirring rods nitroglycerin newspaper or Kieselguhr sodium, potassium, or ammonium nitrate guncotton, gunpowder or plastic explosives cotton and cardboard detonator (see below) Newspaper is used here, but originally you use Kieselguhr (a porous silica substance) but the book says that newspaper works just as well. With the silica substance it is more like plastic, with wood pulp it is more like paper mache. Procedure: First soak strips of newspaper overnight so they become mushy and then mush it in your hands (isn't this fun?!?) until it becomes more like a paste (you can do that with the blender set on liquify to speed things up). Keep the nitroglycerine in the fridge at all times! Collect the pulpwith a strainer and let it dry slightly and then add on add on the chemicals listed above (except for the nitroglycerine) with pulp being 2 parts and the chemicals being 1 part (ratio 2:1). Mix well. Almost done! Now put it in the fridge for an hour and then pour 1 part nitroglycerine and 1.5 parts mixture (ratio 1:1.5) and use the thermometer to make sure everything is below 15 C. Now make a cardboard tube 3 inches long with a radius of 1cm. Put cotton in one end as a plug and pour in the dynamite until it is 2/3 full (2" down the tube) and leave it in a safe (DRY) place where it can dry peacefully and pray that there isn't an earthquake! When it's dry, fill the remaining 1 inch (1/3) with either gunpowder, guncotton or plastic explosives and cap the top and stick in a fuse, which should be wires with a rocket igniter at the end connected to a copper wire a L O N G distance away to a power source. You can also use a timer, but DON'T LIGHT the damn thing! Be careful with this stuff unless you want to join AstroBoy - the pressure given off is about 2 million pounds per square inch. Page 15 DETONATING TNT AND DYNAMITE by Dr. Boom Even though TNT and Dynamite are powerful explosives, to set them off you need a smaller explosion or a charge. For the shock needed to set them off, plastic explosives can be used. It's easy to make and quite powerful. Let's say you use TNT: There's the two basic ways to do it. If you want to use a ping pong ball, fill it half way with TNT and fill the other half with plastic explosives. Since your using small amounts of TNT, you can use a LONG fuse (at least 1 foot) of magnesium ribbon as a fuse, but never put it under a car or it'll blow it up (yes, it's still pretty damn powerful). If you're a little nuts and decide to make a large charge, I would recomment using an electronic detonator or timer. Well, I hope you enjoy your bomb making (if you ever go to the CN tower, bring a little ball of Dynamite or TNT and rop it and 30 seconds later, enjoy the fireworks -the shock is strong enough to detonate it. A penny will penetrate 1 food into concrete!). BOMB CONTAINERS by Dr. Boom Drill a hole in a ping pong ball and fill it up with plastic explosives. If you're lucky enough to live in a high rise apartment, do this: Take your ping pong ball bomb and put a magnesium ribbon fuse (1 foot long) in the ball (you can add BB pellets) and light it at midnight and throw it down! The foot long fuse should should give it 30 seconds to Dr. Boom Doom Time. I bet you a buck you'll wake up the neighbourhood! Or, go to a mall and pour gunpowder in an ashtray with the sand in it. Put lots just under the surface and put a small ball of plastic explosives. Too bad you can't see the face of the person who tried to put out his cigarette! I bet he'll fucking stop smoking right away! Try thick rolled up cardboard cylinders and fill them up with your favourite explosive. POLISH FLAIRS Materials: Potassium nitrate (saltpeter) Sucrose (sugar) Napkin Procedure: Mix equal amounts on a napkin and ignite it. It will flare up and smoke. NOTE: Do not inhale the smoke - it is hazardous! Page 16 I. LIST OF HOUSEHOLD CHEMICALS AND THEIR COMPOSITION Household Product Chemical Compounds 컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴 Vinegar 3-5% Acetic Acid Baking Soda Sodium Bicarbonate Drain Cleaners Sodium Hydroxide Sani-Flush 75% Sodium Bisulfate Ammonia Water Ammonium Hydroxide Table Salt Sodium Chloride Sugar Sucrose Malk of Magnesia Magnesium Hydroxide Tincture of Iodine 47% Alcohol, 4% Iodine Rubbing Alcohol 70%-99% Isopropyl Alcohol II. WIMPY, BUT PRETTY SAFE EXPERIMENTS Experiment 1: Generating Chlorine Gas Ever wonder why ammonia bottles always say "Do not mix with chlorine bleach" and vice versa? That's because if you mix ammonia water with Ajax or something like it, it will give off chlorine gas. To capture it, get a large bottle and put Ajax in the bottom. Then pour some ammonia down into the bottle. Since the chlorine is heavier than air, it will stay down in there unless you use large amounts of either Ajax or Ammonia (DON'T). For something fun do with chlorine, stay tuned. Experiment 2: Chlorine and Turpentine Take a small cloth or rag and soak it in turpentine. Quickly drop it into the bottle of chlorine. It should give off alot of black smoke and probably start burning. Experiment 3: Generating Hydrogen Gas To generate hydrogen, all you need is an acid and a metal that will react with that acid. Try vinegar (acetic acid) with zinc, aluminum, magnesium, etc. You can collect hydrogen in something if you note that it is lighter than air. Light a small amount and it burns with a small POP. Another way of creating hydrogen is by the electrolysis of water. This involves separating water (H2O) into hydrogen and oxygen by an electric current. To do this, you need a 6-12 volt battery, two test tubes, a large bowl, two carbon electrodes (take them out of an unworking 6-12 volt battery), and table salt. Dissolve the salt in a large bowl full of water. Submerge the two test tubes in the water and put the electrodes inside them with the mouth of the tube aiming down. Connect the battery to some wire going down to the electrodes. This will work for a while, but chlorine will be generated along with the oxygen which will undoubtedly corrode your copper wires leading to the carbon electrodes (the table salt is broken up into chlorine and sodium ions, the chlorine comes off as a gas with oxygen Page 17 while sodium reacts with the water to form sodium hydroxide). Therefore, if you can get your hands on some sulfuric acid, use it instead. It will not affect the reaction other than making the water conduct electricity. Experiment 4: Hydrogen and Chlorine Take the test tube of hydrogen and cover the mouth with your thumb. Keep it inverted, and bring it near the bottle of chlorine (not one that has reacted with turpentine). Say "goodbye test tube," and drop it into the bottle. The hydrogen and chlorine should react and possible explode (depending on purity and amount of each gas). An interesting thing about this is they will not react if it is dark and no heat or other energy is around. When a light is turned on, enough energy is produced to cause them to react. Experiment 5: Iodine Tincture of iodine contains mainly alcogol and a little iodine. To separate them, put the ticture of iodine in a metal lid to a bottle and heat it over a candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the candle. Have a stand holding another metal lid directly over the tincture (about 4-6 inches above it) with ice on top of it. The alcohol should evaporate, and the iodine should sublime, but should reform iodine crystals on the cold metal lid directly above. You can use the iodine along with household ammonia to form nitrogen triiodide (discussion further up in this document). Experiment 6: Grain-Elevator Explosion Want to try your own "grain-elevator explosion?" Get a candle and some flour. Light the candle and put some flour in your hand. Try various ways of getting the flour to leave your hand and become dust right over the candle flame. The enormous surface area allows all the tiny dust particles to burn, which they do at about the same time, combining to form a fireball effect. In grain elevators, much the same thing happens. If you can get your hands on some Lycopodium powder, do. This will work much better, creating huge fireballs that are unexpected. 旼컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� � Where Can I Find Some Of Those Chemicals? � 읕컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� Most of the chemicals listed can most likely be found at the following places, your school, or under "Chemicals" in the Yellow Pages: Company Address City Phone ## 컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� Chemglobe Corporation 300 March Road Kanata 592-2541 Diversey Wyandotte Incorporated 124 O'Connor Ottawa 235-5095 Hercules Canada Incorporated 3450 Wyman Crescent Ottawa 526-1816 Ottawa Chemists Clinic Pharmacy 192 Laurier Ave. West Ottawa 235-3993 Terry Chemicals Bay 5-19 Grenfell Crescent Nepean 226-1979 Page 18 旼컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� � Acetone Peroxide Explosive � 읕컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� Jack the Ripper This explosive can not only be used as an explosive, but also as a detonator. I will go into this one very detailed and all my following articles will be the same. Materials: Hydrogen Peroxide (hair bleach, drug stores and hair supply stores) Acetone (hardware Stores and drug stores) Sulfuric Acid (clear battery acid boiled until white fumes appear) Eye Dropper or Syringe w/glass tube Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml) Thermometer (0 to 100 degrees C) Glass Containers Large Pan Ice and Salt Water Paper Towels All the above can easily be commandeered from your school laboratory for your own purposes. Procedure: 1) Mix 30 ml of Acetone and 50ml of Hydrogen Peroxide into a glass container and mix thoroughly. 2) Cool it by placing it in a larger container containing ice, salt, and water. Now cool it to 5 degrees Celsius. 3) Add 2.5 ml of concentrated sulfuric acid to the mixture slowly (drop by drop w/ the eye dropper). Stir the mixture w/the thermometer keeping the temperature between 5-10 degrees Celsius. If the temperature rises don't shit just stop adding the sulfuric acid until it cools down then start adding it again. 4) Now that you have all the acid into the mixture continue stirring for another 5 minutes. 5) Now let the mixture stand for 12 to 24 hours in the ice/salt bath. 6) After 12 hours the crystals of acetone peroxide will precipitate out of the once clear solution. Precipitation should be done after 24 hours. 7) Now filter out the crystals through a paper towel attached to a jar w/a rubber band. Then after that wash the crystals by pouring ice cold water over them, letting the water rinse the crystals & filter down through the paper towel into the jar. 8) Select a container and allow them to dry. Page 19 Uses: Now this can be used as an explosive however it is the simplest detonator that I have ever encountered. Works best in 2.5 inch lengths of brass tubing with one end sealed. The only drawback is that it must be used quickly as Acetone Peroxide deteriorates quickly. I have found that keeping it refrigerated seems to make it last longer however for optimum effect it should be used 7 days after manufacture at the latest. It also can be used to detonate almost every Ammonium Nitrate compound, and Ammonium Nitrate itself for that matter. 旼컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� � Fertilizer/Hydrazine Liquid Explosive � 읕컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� Jack The Ripper This one is a killer it is more powerful and more brisant than C-4. However you need a blasting cap to detonate or a homemade compound detonator. Namely Acetone Peroxide detonators can be used here or Mini-Compound Detonators. Materials: Ammonium Nitrate Fertilizer (no less than - Farm and Feed Stores 32% Nitrogen) or pure Anhydrous Hydrazine - Chemical Supply House (Be careful with this one it is very reactive!!!) Large Mixing Container GLASS stirring rod Storage Container w/tight lid Blasting Cap or Compound Detonator Procedure: NOTE: mixing these two is the same as baking soda and vinegar so the reaction is very effervescent & can bubble over the top so use a jar 6 times the volume of the Hydrazine! Also large volumes of ammonia gas are released when these two are mixed so wear a gas mask or be upwind of the mixing. 1) Pour into the container the an amount of Anhyrdrous Hydrazine equal to the amount of explosive required. 2) Ammonium Nitrate Prilled or Powdered is added a teaspoon at a time to the container, then wait for it to dissolve (stirring constantly), & then add more. 3) Continue the above process until the ammonium nitrate no longer dissolves into the hydrazine, and don't worry about the small amount of ammonium nitrate left over. 4) Now your basically done and you have an explosive more powerful than any military explosive. Page 20 5) To make it more powerful add 20% aluminum powder to the mixture (100 mesh or finer) Uses: This mixture has unique absorption and retention properties, and can be poured directly on the ground for a liquid land mine. This type of land mine is totally disguised and cannot be noticed, and all you need to do is bury a compound detonator in the ground, which can be detonated by a step switch etc. This type of land mine remains detonatable for up to four days regardless of rain etc... It can also be poured into a container and used as a bomb. 旼컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴커 � RDX Explosive � 읕컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴켸 Jack The Ripper The reason I wrote this is because the other file I saw on how to make RDX was so shabby and lame it was probably written by an eight year old mental patient. So here is mine easy! Straightforward! Comprehendible! Materials: Hexamethylenetetramine (drug stores under Hexamin, Urotropine, & Methenamine) Strong Nitric Acid (chemical supply house or some hardware stores) Acetone (drug stores and hardware stores) Scale with gram accuracy Graduated Cylinder (cc or ml) or measuring cups Thermometer 20-100 degrees Celsius or 68-212 degrees Fahrenheit Several large quart canning jars Two large basins or bowls made of metal or some other heatable metal Paper Towels Procedure: 1) Place one half cup or 120 ml or cc of nitric acid in a large canning jar and bring the temperature to between 20 and 30 degrees Celsius (68-86 F) by putting the jar in a basin of cold water. 2) Keep the thermometer in the jar so you can closely maintain the temperature between your basins of hot and cold water. 3) Weigh out 70 grams by weight or 18 teaspoons by volume of hexamin. Then start adding the hexamin slowly at 1/2 teaspoon at a time over a 15 minute time period. All the while maintaining the temperature between 20 and 30 degrees celcius by moving it in and out of the cold water basins. 4) When all the hexamin is dissolved in the acid heat the solution to 55 degrees Celsius (131 F) by placing the jar in a basin of hot water. Then maintain this temperature for about ten minutes. Page 21 5) Now remove the jar from the basin of hot water and place it in the basin of cold water and cool the jar to 20 degrees Celsius (68 F). Now when the solution reaches 20 degrees Celsius add 3 cups (750ml) of cold water and white salt will appear. 6) Now the white salt is RDX and should be handled with care. Now filter the Acid/Water/RDX solution through a paper towel covering the mouth of another jar. 7) Wash the RDX crystals off the paper towel and add an additional 3 cups of fresh cold water & a teaspoon of sodium carbonate to neutralize the acid. Now stir rapidly for 3 minutes and then filter it out again. 8) It is now usable, but I prefer purifying it by filling a quart canning jar 2/3 full of acetone & heating the acetone then adding the RDX crystals to it a half teaspoon at a time until it completely dissolves in the acetone. 9) Now that it is all dissolved let the solution cool to room temperature and let it stand for one hour. The RDX will then precipitate again into it's salt. Then you must filter it through a paper towel around another jar & rinse it with cold water the same way you did before. Now you have the finished product roughly 1 and 1/2 ounces of RDX. 10) Now store your finished product (after it dries) in ajar with an air tight lid for future use. Seeing that RDX does not lose it's effectiveness for months. Uses: RDX is a very powerful explosive however it can be compressed into tubes to make detonators. Later in this newsletter I will prescribe a method for making detonators in which RDX will be used along with other explosives before mentioned. RDX however is sensitive to friction, and can be used as an explosive by itself. It is also commonly referred to as Clyclonite. 旼컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� � Mini-Compound Detonator � 읕컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴� Jack The Ripper This is basically a tutorial in making detonators, and there are a few rules, that I would like each & every one of you to follow. Making detonators is very dangerous considering that the purpose of detonators is for them to be sensitive and easily detonated, so be careful. Also the detonators I am telling you how to make are small, but the same principle can be applied on a larger scale. Page 22 Materials: Name Source ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Empty .22 Magnum shells or copper/brass/aluminum Gun stores or hard- tubing 1/4 inch in diameter and 1 inch long. These ware stores tubes must also be closed at one end. A substantial quantity of Secondary Explosive i.e. RDX PETN is the center (amount depends on how many detonators you intend to filling of detonating made) PETN can be substituted here. cords. A substantial quantity of primary explosive i.e. Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide. An ignition charge of black powder. Gun stores FFF black powder. A loading press (commonly used for reloading shells Gun stores also please be safe considering a few of these detonators may detonate when being compressed, so take the neccessary precautions such as safety glasses etc...) Procedure: NOTE: dirt or oil may sensitive the detonators to an unsafe level so when handling the primary & secondary & ingnition charges use tongs. Also boil a bucket of water in the room as humidity helps or if your in a house turn your shower on hot and leave it on! 1) Now light a candle, and let two drops of wax drip into each shell casing before use. Then let the wax cool down. 2) Now fill the casing to a depth of 1/4 inch with RDX or PETN, and then GENTLY and SLOWLY insert the ram and compress the explosive slowly and evenly. Now remove the ram slowly and carefully. 3) Continue this process adding small amounts of RDX or PETN until a column of secondary explosive 5/8 of an inch high has been pressed into the 1 inch shell casing. 4) Now add a small amount of Primary explosive the same way you added the secondary explosive on top of the secondary explosive. Now add the Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide on top of the 5/8 inch column of secondary explosive and compress it with the ram until it reaches a height of primary explosive 1/4 inch high. 5) Now compress the remaining 1/8 of an inch with black powder. Now seal the top with wax paper or tape until ready for use. Page 23 Diagram: - +++++ | |@@@@| | |****| | |****| | |####| 1 Inch ------< |####| | |####| | |####| | |####| | |----| - |====| @ - Black Powder (Ignition Charge) * - Mercury Fulminate or Acetone Peroxide (Primary Charge) # - RDX or PETN (Secondary Charge) - - Two drops of wax on Bottom + - Tape covering top = - The bottom of shell casing | - Sides of .22 Magnum Shell Uses: These little beauties can be used for almost any purpose or a larger version can be used where a hard to detonate substance is used. Their main use is for miniature hand grenades and other small explosives. 旼컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴커 � Potassium Chlorate/Sugar Ignitor � 읕컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴컴켸 Jack The Ripper This ignitor is one of my many favorites, it can be ignited by either concentrated sulfuric or nitric acids. It also works excellently as a time delay, which I will detail later. Materials: Potassium Chlorate (drug stores and chemical supply houses) (Granulated) Sugar (grocery store) Measuring Container (cup, tablespoon, etc...) Storage Container w/tight fitting lid Mixing Container w/tight fitting lid 2 flat boards (1 large 36x36 & the other small so it can be held in the hand) Procedure: 1) Spread handful at a time the potassium chlorate on the large board and rub with the other flat board or a rolling pin until the particles resemble granulated sugar. Page 24 2) Now measure out 2 parts by volume of sugar into the container, and then add 3 parts by volume of the Potassium Chlorate to the container. Now recap the container and shake the mixture for 4-5 minutes until it has a uniform color and consistency. 3) Store for future use in an air tight container, but remember to shake it up before use to re-mix any settled particles. Uses: Now for a delayed reaction place the acid in a gelatin capsule and bury the gelatin capsule in the Potassium Chlorate mixture. Depending on how many gelatin capsules you use & their size depends on the delay. It can range from 20 minutes to and hour or more. This type of ignitor reaches a temperature of 3,200 degrees Fahrenheit and can ignite most incendiaries. It can also be compacted into a pipe to create a low power pipe bomb. STINK BOMB by Dr. Boom If you want more life in your party (or break it up), you have to try this. Materials: Aerosol can of whipcream Plastic bags, styrofoam... Magnesium ribbon 5ml gas Matches Procedure(s): Part 1 Buy a can of whipcream (the kind in the aerosol can) and leave it under your bed for a week for it to spoil. Press the nozzle for 5 seconds, it can avacuate a whole room from the stench (think what 10 seconds can do)! Part 2 Take 5ml of gas, and add to it plastic (like bads, styrofoam, etc) until it won't dissolve anymore or so thick it won't run. Take the cap off the can and wrap the nozzle 2 times with magnesium ribbon. Leave 1 foot for the fuse and take the plastic gas and form it around the nozzle and light the fuse and run. Watch the fireworks and asked who squeezed the cheese!). Page 25 CORDITE by Dr. Boom Materials: Guncotton Nitroglycerine Acetone Petroleum jelly Procedure: Cordite is a smokeless explosive - you take your guncotton, mix it with nitroglycerine, petroleum jelly and a little acetone and let it dry and then you have cordite! You can use it by itself or with other charges. Have fun! $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ $ $ $ T E A R - AN ARTICLE FROM THE BOOK: $ $ G A S - THE POOR MAN'S JAMES BOND $ $ - BY KURT SAXON $ $ $ $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$ There are several eye and nose irritants on the market which can be easily duplicated. A good irritant is formaldehyde. Better known as embalming fluid, it smells horrible, hurts the eyes and nose, and on exposure to the air it vaporizes, making a room uninhabitable for hours. It can be squirted from a water pistol or nasal inhaler, poured on the floor or vaporized by a bomb described in the STINKUM PHILE. Formaldehyde can be bought at the drug store under the pretext of wanting it to preserve mice or other lab specimen. The irritant mailmen use against dogs and which is sold widely for self defense is oleoresid capsicum. Capsicum is the hot essence of red peppers. Oleoresin is the process for extracting it. To extract the Capsicum, grind up four ounces of red pepper seeds in a blender or with a mortar and pestle. Red pepper seeds are bought in the grocers's. The dry, ground seeds are then put into a coffee percolator in which there is about 16 ounces of alcohol,preferably with the water distilled out. The seeds are then percolated for about a half hour. The alcohol is then distilled off until there are only a couple of table spoons of red liquid left in the flask. The red liquid is then added to a half pint of light mineral oil, bought at a drug store. It can be sprayed from a nasal spray. Another good way is with a window cleaning sprayer bought at any dime store. The tube of the sprayer is cut to fit in a two ounce medicine bottle. This way you have enough of the goody to last through a whole demonstration, no matter which side you're on. It is also nice to keep by the door or by your computer to repel intruders. Intruders. (Bell Security!) Before using, the container should be given a few shakes. Under laboratory conditions all the oil is extracted from the seeds. But with my Mickey Mouse method a lot of oil is left in so the residue is quite potent. Just be sure you strain out any larger bits so the sprayer hole is not clogged. The ground seeds left in the percolator are dried and saved. They are great for throwing into the faces of people in a mob. If you really want a laugh, throw some broadcast from a theater balcony during the death scene in "Love Story". The goody called MACE is probably only acrolein. If not, it works just as well as MACE and is simple and fun to produce. It is the same product as described on pages 104 through 106 of the ANARCHIST COOKBOOK. Mine however, is broken down and simplified. Acrolein is not toxic but causes horrible pain in the nose and copious tears, and irritates the skin. A shot in the face from a water pistol or some other sprayer will put anyone out of the game for at least half an hour. Acrolein is best made an ounce at a time. Put in the flask 2 1/2 ounces of glycerine and 3/4 ounce of sodium bisulfate (Sani-Flush), both of which can be bought at any grocery store. The still is set up with the outside tube connected as the fumes are bad. When the mixture starts to bubble it must be watched constantly to make sure it does not bubble up into the neck of the flask. If it starts for the neck of the flask, remove the lamp until it settles down. If the lamp is too hot, the tin can is raised on small blocks until the right heat is gotten. Distill off an ounce of acrolein and take away the lamp. An ounce is all this size batch is good for. Let the flask cool for an hour before opening and cleaning. Pour the residue down the sink and put your face over the drain to get a sample of the vapor. Then cap the receiving bottle and wash everything the acrolein was in contact with. The best squirter for the three irritants above is a water pistol. Most water pistols leak badly so they must be transported barrel up so the goody won't ooze out around the trigger. It will leak when you use it so it is best to put in the plastic sandwhich bag with the opening held around the barrel with the rubberband. If the is pistol has a trigger guard it should be cut off and then it can be used just as easily in a plastic bag as otherwise. For casual carrying around, you cant beat a nasal spray. The best ones can be screwed open so the goody can be poured in. If not, you have to squeeze it and put its nozzle into the goody. When the pressure is released the irritant will be sucked up. Such irritants are illegal to carry in some states. that's one of the reasons the nasal spray is best. If you are searched and it is found, there is little chance it will be recognized for what it is. I don't know what advice to give you if the cop has the sniffles and goes to use some of your goody. How to get rid of the CLUB ========================== by the Assassin ========================== Have you ever wanted to steal a nice car, and the only thing that was keeping you from doing that was the Club? Well, forget about the Club because the only thing they do is try to scare away car theifs. Here are some easy steps that show you how to get the Club off that steering wheel. No, you're not going to take a hacksaw to the steering wheel. Just read: The materials you'll need are: A can of keyboard cleaner, a small sledge hammer or just a hamnmer will do. Now, once you get inside the car, you take the can of cleaner and hold it upside down, then spray the part of the Club where the key goes in until it freezes, or is white all over the key lock. Then quickly hit the key lock with the hammer until the key lock breaks off. It should break off easily because the whole lock is frozen, and that makes it very brittle and can be broken off. Now, once the whole key lock is broken off, the Club should fold right up, and you can take it off the steering wheel. Then hotwire the car, or just keep the Club for yourself, and really freak out the driver when he comes back to his car and finds that the Club is the only thing missing from his car. Have fun terrorizing society, and remember... fuck all, anarchy rulz! ============================================================================== Note: I am not resposible for anything you do to anyone's property, family members, or anything else. Don't blame me if you get caught stealing someone's car! ============================================================================== Also, if you, or anyone you know is interested in organizing a group of anarchists and phreakers, leave me a message on IceNet, or call the Neutral Zone at 252-2236. Tulsa needs a group for anarcist, and phreakers. If you want more files on anarchy, phreaking, bombs, etc. call these boards: The Mourge (918) 341-6843 The Neutral Zone (918) 252-2236 ****How to get MONEY from payfones**** Written by Blade...Special Thanx to RIPCO for their fine G-Files! Call (312)an have access to its wires. (Look for a plastic shroud running down the wall, or the junction box outside!) On a normal phoneline, only two wires are used:Ring & Tip. (Red & Green). The payphone uses the red and green for its telephone operations, but it also uses the yellow & black to control the coin mech. relays & solenoids.Find a section of the wire where a cut will not be easily seen. Strip off the insulation of the cord, exposing the four wires. Now, get out the all purpose wire cutters (Or finger nail clippers if you like) and cut the black & yellow wires. Now just sit back and let people use the phone! What Happens? Well, when you put money into a payphone, it stays in the coin mechanism until 1 of 2 things happen. 1. You connect your call, talk, and Hangup. After you hangup, your money goes to the collection box. (The only way to get the money then is to rip the box out!) 2. You call a number that doesn't answer, or get busy signal, or something like that, and then hangup. When you hangup, the money goes from the coin mech. to the coin return. That is the key! After the Black & Yellow wires have been cut, the money goes neither to the coin box or coin return! It just sits there! All you have to do is come back at like 3:00 in the morning, re-connect the black & Yellow wires, pick up the handset & put it back down. **********JACKPOT********** All the money that was put in that phone that day comes shooting out the coin return. (Just like in the movies!) It is the AWESOMEIST FEELING! I have collected upto $30 a day doing this to phones all around tow n! Dangers: The people that put money in and don't get connected or get a busy signal and hang up do NOT get their money back. Usually they will call the operator who inturn calls the Repair Dept. (That is why it is important to cut the wire w here it can not be seen. But if you want to do this as a one time thing.........GO FOR IT! Oh yes, alternate phones every other couplple of days or so. Stay on your toes and watch out for white Vans!!!!) If someone sees you taking money out of the coin return (Getting $15 in change out of a phone is not common!) Just say you hung up the phone and all this mony started pouring out! (It doesn't hurt to give them a little of it either!) After a month or two the Phone Co. catches on, so I do not reccomend using one phone for over two weeks. GOOD LUCK!! Oh, bye the way.........I forgot to mention this file is for information only (SNICKER SNICKER)...........Good Luck!!!!!! <%=-------------------------------=%> <%= Draino Bomb =%> <%=-------------------------------=%> A DRAINO BOMB IS MOST COMMONLY USED FOR THE COMPLETE DESTRUCTION OF CARS. IT IS VERY EASY TO MAKE AND IS TOTALLY KITCHEN IMPROVISED. COMPONENTS: ----------- [1] A PLASTIC FILM CANISTER (NOTHING ELSE WILL WORK) [2] COMET [3] DRAINO CRYSTALS FILL THE CANISTER A LITTLE MORE THAN 3/4 FULL WITH COMET, AND FILL THE REST WITH THE DRAINO, AND PUT THE LID BACK ON. INSTRUCTIONS FOR USE: ---------------------- [1] TAKE OFF GAS CAP OF VICTIM'S CAR [2] PLACE CANISTER IN GAS TANK [3] RUN LIKE HELL!!! IN ABOUT 10 MINUTES THE GAS WILL EAT THRU THE CANISTER. WHEN THIS OCCURS, THE ENTIRE CAR WILL BLOW UP, JUST LIKE ON TV. I STRONGLY ADVISE THAT NO ONE BE IN THE CAR AT THIS TIME, BECAUSE ANY PEOPLE INSIDE WILL PROBABLY WIND UP WITH THEIR HEADS IN L.A. AND THEIR FEET IN NEW YORK... THIS KIND OF BOMB IS VERY EASY TO MAKE, AND VERY SAFE TO STORE, BUT IT IS EXTREMELY EFFECTIVE. I HAVE TESTED IT MANY TIMES AND HAVE NEVER BEEN LET DOWN. U S E W I T H C A U T I O N ----- ------- ------------- IT IS A CRIME TO BLOW UP CARS! (IN CASE YOU DIDN'T KNOW..) *+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+ * * + THE CALL WAITING TAP + * * + WRITTEN BY: The Byte + * * + DISTRIBUTED BY: Road Agent + *+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+*+ So, you have an enemy who talks behind your back, eh? Or, maybe you just would like to "listen" in on your friend's conversations? Well, if you have 2 phone lines and call waiting on one of them, you are in luck. (Only one problem: your friend must also have call waiting!) Procedure: [1] Call up your friend with the phone you want to listen with. When he answers call waiting (he's already on the phone, and you are the 2nd caller), then you either sit there or say: sorry, I have the wrong #. [2] Next, you wait until he goes back to the other line (puts you on hold). [3] Then, pick up your other line and call ->YOUR<- call waiting. [4] Answer call waiting [5] Then go back to him. (Answer, and then click back.. Click ->2<- times answer, and go back..) [6] Hang up your second line [7] You are now on the line! [8] Listen and be Q U I E T ! He can hear you! Techniques I use to prevent noise or confusion: If you have call forwarding, turn it on and forward calls somewhere before you start listening. If a call comes through on your call waiting circuit, the people talking (your buddie and his pal) will not hear anything, but after you answer call waiting and come back, they will hear the other call hang up (two clicks). If you don't have call forwarding, I suggest you get it if you are going to make a habit of this, because it will become a major pain in the ass. When your call waiting rings, you are removed from the "listening" conversation and placed back on his hold circuit. In order to get back on, you must answer the phone and wait for your party when you answer the phone, tell the guy you are in a hurry and you have to go or you'll call him back later or something) to hang up. When he or she hangs up, you will be back on the conversation. Then, one of your pals will say: What was that? (because of the clicks).. So, try to use call forwarding if you can. Remember: Have fun, and don't abuse it. I am not sure about it, because I just discovered it. It is illegal (what isn't these days) because it is invading privacy". I don't know if the phone company just did not realize there was a flaw in it, or that was planned for line testing, I am not sure. Have fun! THE BYTE [>------------------------------------<] [> <] [> <] [> [> <] <] [> [+%--The 3rd Reich--%+] <] [> [> <] <] [> Presents <] [> <] [> Change Machine Fraud !! <] [> <] [>------------------------------------<] [> <] [> Written <] [> by <] [> <] [> The Prisoner /// <] [> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ <] [>------------------------------------<] Okay...There are certain ways to take money out of a change machine... 1) You can blow the fucker up.. 2) You can use this quick and easy method Heres what ya do.... I. There are certain types of money changing machines...The one YOU need is the kind where ya put yer bill in the tray ,push the tray in to get yer change... II. Once you got the right machine,get a $5 or a $1 ,it helps if the bill is WRINKLED...Then tear a notch in the bill on the lower left side of the bill.Cut the notch about 3.5 cm. from the lower left hand corner... III. Now, go to the machine..put the bill in the tray and slide it in... Now what will happen is the machine will have so far read the bill right and it will spit out yer change.. Then when it reads the notch, it will think the bill is fucked up and reject it and like you will have the change and yer bill... For this to werk right you must have done this right..it does take practice but once you can do this your local Money Changer will be yer bank... oh yeah one more thing..dont tell or upload this file to to many places otherwise every fuckin person in the nation will be doin this and this file would be no use.... whatever... ********* HOW 2 PiCK COMBiNATiON LOCKS ********* Have you ever tried to impress your friends by picking one of those Master combination locks and failed? Well then read on. The Master lock company has made this kind of lock with a protection scheme. If you pull the handle of it hard, the knob won't turn. That was their biggest mistake...... Ok, now on to it. 1st number. Get out any of the Master locks so you know what's going on. 1: The handle part (the part that springs open when you get the combination), pull on it, but not enough so that the knob won't move. 2: While pulling on it turn the knob to the left until it won't move any more. Then add 5 to this number. Congradulations, you now have the 1st number. 2nd number. (a lot tougher) Ok, spin the dial around a couple of times, then go to the 1st number you got, then turn it to the right, bypassing the 1st number once. WHEN you have bypassed. Start pulling the handle and turning it. It will eventually fall into the groove and lock. While in the groove pull on it and turn the knob. If it is loose go to the next groove; if it's stiff you got the second number. 3rd number: After getting the 2nd, spin the dial, then enter the 2 numbers, then after the 2nd, go to the right and at all the numbers pull on it. The lock will eventually open if you did it right. If can't do it the first time, be patient, it takes time. Have fun... ********* How to make M-80's ********* This file deals with how to make M-80's or similair type small explosive charges that make LOUD noises. The hardest part with making M-80' is the powder. The kind of powder that you want is the silver type used in firecrackers. It is made of Potassium Perchlorate KCIO4 , Aluminium & Sulfur. You can take apart firecrackers...or, you can make it out of the above ingredients. Get each of these in as fine of powder as you can. Obtain a postage or any small scale and mix them BY WEIGHT in the folloing ratios. 1 pt. - Powdered sulfur 1 pt. - Powdered Aluminium 2 pts. - Potassium Perchlorate KCIO4 DO NOT use potassium chlorate, it will explode violently when mixed with sulfur. Stir the powder well with a piece of wood in a plastic bowl. Next, you will need something to contain the powder in. Get some thick cardboard tubing with a diameter of 1/2" to 3/4" You can find tubing anywhere. I have found a gold mine where I work, I just grab the Cardboard tubes register receipt tape is wrapped around. The thicker the sides of the tube are the better. The actual M-80 I have (Not Home Made) is 1 1/2" long and has a diameter of 1/2". Third, you will need fuse, where I live, a sporting goods store sells it under the name to cannon fuse for 15 cents a foot, but it really should be Waterproof fuse. You can pull it out of any number of fireworks. If you have gotten all that, now you need end-plugs. I personally use one of those hot melt glue guns. Works great. Y can use Elmerrrs Glue- All but it takes a long time to dry. Or, you can get a piece of wood dowel that telescopes into your tube, cut 1/4" thick discs and smear Elmer's on them. To Assemble: Put in one endplug, with whatever method you are using, let it dry, harden or whatever it has to do. Drill your fuse hole in the center of the tube. Put in the fuse and pour the powder in. Put in the other endplug. Glue or whatever and Viola, a M-80. Don't worry about pouring hot glue on the powder mixture, it won't ignite. I have never had a homemade M-80 I wasn't proud of. The powder mixture detailed above has some astonishing capabillity. Use the above well, and try not to hurt ur self. ************************************************************************* How to upgrade your 24oo modem into a 96oo baud. (US Robotics compatible of course) Written By Death Bringer (CPT/Info-Net/IRA) Have you ever had some geeky little fucker who brags how his modemspeed is so much faster than yours?? If so, break his little cocksucking ego after upgading your modemspeed with this text. Be sure to turn off your modem before you begin. First of all, you need to go to your nearby electronics store, don't try to go to Radio Shack, their parts have their own model numbers and you'll have a hell of a time getting the parts you need. This upgrading of your modem will not work on old hayes modems, but they will work on any clone maker of modems (everex, practical peripherals, anchor, ati, intel, etc.) It will only work with modems with the Intel Chipset. This technique widens the band width by using a different chip that is similiar to the chip already in your modem. Parts Needed: 16550 UART L4313545 IC SC11020CN IC L8730183 IC First of all, check to see if your biggest chips are soldered or socketed. if they are soldered, you'll have to de-solder the chips before you begin. After you get that done, replace the 8250 UART with the 16550 UART. (16550 UARTs are required for 9600+ speeds). The other 1 or 2 chip(s) need(s) to replaced with INTEL L4313545 instead of the chip that is already there. If your modem has another socket or more, than you are in luck, you can purchase a chip from US Robotics, and make your modem faster than 9600. If you don't have the socket, than you can only go 9600. I'll get the chip number to you in the next edition and explain how and where to install it. I am working on a way for the people (like me) that do not have the extra socket in their modem to speed up the rates. I am working on a way to piggy back the chip. I'll get back to you. There should be a 22 pin chip on your modem also with a model number of SC11005CN or some where close to it. Replace it with the SC11020CN. Also, replace the L8630173 with the L8730183 chip. If you have any suggestions or questions, you can locate me through Compuserve USER ID 74702,97524 *****OPTIONAL, LAP-M Error correction***** Adding error correction is rather simple. For this these parts are necessary: Potentiometer. This is a 5k audio taper variable resistor. Capacitor. Any non-polarized 1.0 to 1.5 uf cap should do. 100 ohm resistor - quarter or half watt. Wire Solder, soldering iron, etc. Solder one end of the capacitor to PIN 1 of the phone line input jack |-------------------| | \ line in :: | \ phone in :: |-----------||||||||| pin 1^ If your modem is external, the diagram looks like this. |------------------| | /| | ||RS-232 port | \| :: | |-|line in :: | |-| pin 1^ | |-|phone in | |-| |------------------| This should be on the back of the modem. Pin one should the farthest on the bottom left. Solder the other end of the capacitor to the center lug of the potentiometer (there are three lugs on this critter). Solder one end of the resistor to the PIN 4 of the line input jack. Solder the other end of the resistor to either one of the remaining outside lugs of the potentiometer. Doesn't matter which one. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ADDITION TO ORIGNAL FILE - 6/15/91 Bill McCauley & Dark Spyre/Dr. Brains/Ryan Schwartz/Lamer/Loser First, a personal recomendation. _THIS WORKS!!!_ I have been plagued with 2400 baud for some time. I hate waiting for the transfer to finish so that i can use the phone. Threw the gismo together in about 10 or 15 minutes, took another five to adjust the pot for best results on my worst conection, and guess what? No more slow connections! ------------------------------------------------------------------------- Have Fun! I am working on cheap ways to install V.32/V.42bis on your modified modem *************************Updated, 6/16/91******************************** Installing V.42bis: 1) You will need to purchase a 27C512 ROM chip. 2) You will need to purchase a Sony CXK58257P-12L (or equivalent) Ram chip. 3) Install the Rom in the Supervisor (SUP) socket. 4) Install the Ram in the Ram socket. 5) Make up two 3 pin jumpers for P9 and P10 with pins 1 and 2 jumpered on one and pins 2 and 3 jumpered on the other. Connect the vacant pin 1 on the one to the vacant pin 3 on the other with a jumper wire. 6) Remove the jumpers on P9 and P10. 7) Install the jumper with pins 1 and 2 connected together on P9. 8) Connect the jumper with pins 2 and 3 connected together on P10. - DeathBringer '91 ************************************************************************** Hey, this sounds too good to be true! So, I went chip hunting. Nobody ever heard of these chips. Intel couldn't even tell me where to get these things, they never heard of them! I called electronic houses all over the country: "... a U-A-R-what?"; "You're up The Creek, Dude." And by the way, is this HST compatible?