| City: Gwalior |
 |
| State: Madhya Pradesh |
| District Town: Gwalior |
| Std
Code: 0751 |
| Trade: General Trade and
Commerce |
| Population: 717780 |
| Category: Forts, Palaces,
Monume |
| Language: Hindi |
| Best
Season: November-April |
Places to
visit
Come, enjoy a date with
history…The Gwalior Fort Son-et-Lumiere
For many decades now, the Fort of
Gwalior has slumbered in silence, broken now and then by the patter of
curious feet and awed tones.
Come sundown, the deserted Fort
is once again left with only memories for company.
Now it
comes alive every night. Well remembered incidents, and well loved voices
once more echo through its lonely corridors and its dark and sad facade
now glows with the colors of life. Red-gold, blue-green lights illuminate
every nook and cranny of the superbly tiled 'Man Mandir'. The Gwalior
Son-et-Lumiere has begun. The Sound and Light show at the Man Mandir
Palace of Gwalior Fort gives you a glimpse into its glorious
past.
The story of this 'pearl' begins with the sonorous and
eloquent narration by Amitabh Bachchan as Gopachal, the sutradhar
(narrator).
Taking you back in time is the legend of Suraj
Sen, the Rajput chieftain who was hunting in the hills and forests around
Gwalior. Hopelessly lost and terribly thirsty, Suraj Sen came across the
sage Gwalipa who directed him to a pool, which would quench his parched
throat. After drinking the cool, healing waters of this 'kund', Suraj Sen
was cured of a long time ailment-leprosy.
In utter gratitude,
according to Gwalipa's wishes, he built a tank and a fort on the site and
named the city after this great sage. The Rajputs constructed palaces and
temples in the precincts of the fort of which the Sas Bahu ka Mandir and
Teli ka Mandir are fine examples. Prolifically carved out of local
sandstone, these temples are within the fort itself.
For a
brief period in history, Gwalior stood witness to Turkish invasion and
tragic Rajput defeats. Sieges by Mehmood Ghazni and other Muslim kings
have been realistically created by the Son-et-Lumiere and 'Jauhar' scenes
where Rajput women immolate themselves are lighting marvels, so life-like
they seem to cast a sombre glow over kings who rode out to their last
battle.
However, the Rajputs, a fierce and resilient people,
did not lose much time in reconquering a lost treasure, and with the Tomar
dynasty firmly in the saddle, Gwalior was on the threshold of a great and
glorious era. During the reign of Man Singh, the Tomar king, Gwalior saw a
flowering of Indian classical music and art. The exquisite 'Man Mandir',
Palace of Dreams, was built in his time and so began the most romantic
epoch of the Gwalior Fort. Man Singh, a popular and just ruler, married a
courageous Gujari village belle, Mrignayani, and the tale of their meeting
has been beautifully played out in the Son-et-Lumeire. A constant friend
and companion, Mrignayani was the perfect consort. Music was their mutual
passion and the legendary Baiju Bawra their common guru. In the
Son-et-Lumeire, Pt. Jasraj, Bhimsen Joshi, and Kumar Gandharva recreate
the spiritual grandeur of the Dhrupad tradition as sung by Baiju and
Tansen. An illustrious son of Gwalior, Tansen, one of Akbars 'nine jewels'
lies buried in the heart of the city, and his tomb is a splendid example
of early Mughal architecture. The Son-et-Lumeire vividly reconstructs
Mughal rule, at a time when the fort had become a royal prison. The
release of Guru Har Gobind Singh has been graphically described as has
been the incredible story attached to it. Then came to power the last
dynasty to rule Gwalior before the post -Independence era-the Marathas
under Mahadji Scindia. In between, the fort passed briefly into the hands
of the British, Laxmibai of Jhansi and Tatiya Tope. Soon enough the
Scindias restored Gwalior to its former glory. The imposing Jai Vilas
Palace, situated in the city, below the hill top fort, is proof of the
Scindia sway. The late Madho Rao Scindia, the architect of modern Gwalior
made it one of the best-administered former princely states.
Gwalior
The entire city is a visual and
aesthetic feast, for the builders of Gwalior were great architects. Take a
walk through the streets of the city and you will discover old havelis
with exquisitely carved doorways and windows; at almost every street
crossing you will find statues of the Scindia family. Museumes and art
galleries are treasure houses and beautifully maintained palaces give the
city its inimitable regal flavour. Sightseeing in Gwalior is a magical
trip into the centuries gone by.
The
Fort
Standing
on a steep mass of sandstone, Gwalior Fort dominates the city and is its
most magnificent monument. It has been a scene of momentous events:
imprisonment, battles, and jauhars. A steep road winds upward to the Fort,
flanked by statues of Jain tirthankaras, carved into the rock face. The
magnificent outer walls of the Fort still stand, two miles in length and
35 feet high, bearing witness to its reputation for being one of the most
invincible forts of India. This imposing structure inspired Emperor Babar
to describe it "the pearl amongst the fortresses of
Hind."
Within the fort are some marvels of medieval
architecture. The 15th century Gujari Mahal is a monument to the love of
Raja Mansingh Tomar for his Gujar queen, Mrignayani. After he had wooed
and won her, so the story goes, Mrignayani demanded that he build her a
separate palace with a constant water supply from the River Rai, via an
aqueduct. The outer structure of the Gujari Mahal has survived in an
almost total state of preservation; the interior has been converted into
an Archaeological Museum.
Also built by Raja Mansingh is the
Man Mandir Palace, built between 1486 and 1517. The tiles that once
adorned its exterior have not survived, but at the entrance, traces of
these still remain. There is a charming frieze here of ducks paddling in
turquoise waters. Within, the palace rooms stand bare, stripped of their
former glory, mute testimony to the passing of the centuries. Vast
chambers with fine stone screens were once the music halls, and behind
these screens, the royal ladies would learn music from the great masters
of the day. Below, circular dungeons once housed the state prisoners of
the Mughals. The Emperor Aurangzeb had his brother, Murad, imprisoned, and
later executed, here. Close by is Jauhar Pond, where in the Rajput
tradition, the 'ranis' committed mass 'sati' after their consorts had been
defeated in battle. Though the major portions of the Fort were built in
the 15th century, references to this gigantic complex can be traced back
to 425 AD. Older than the city is the Suraj Kund within the Fort walls,
the original pond where Suraj Sen, or Suraj Pal as he was later known, was
cured by the Saint Gwalipa.
 Teli ka Mandir
The Teli ka Mandir is a 9th century edifice,
towering at 100 ft high. This is a Pratihara Vishnu temple of a unique
blending of architectural styles. The shape of the roof is distinctively
Dravidian, while the decorative embellishments have the typically
Indo-Aryan characteristics of Northern India.
Sas-Bahu-ka-Mandir
Also dedicated to Vishnu
is the graceful little Sas-Bahu-ka-Mandir, built in 11th century. Another
landmark is the historic Gurudwara Data Bandhi Chhod built in the memory
of Guru Hargobind Sahib, the 6th Sikh Guru who was imprisoned here by Jehangir for over two
years. At the time of his release, he wanted 52 Hindu kings who were his
fellow prisoners, released with him. Jehangir was very impressed with the
Guru and agreed to his condition. And, finally, within the Fort complex,
housed in the erstwhile barracks of the British soldiers, is Gwalior's
unique gift to modern India: Scindia School. Acknowledged as one of the
finest schools in India, it is only fitting that the country's young
citizens receive the best educational grounding surrounded by monuments to
a past, which is a constant inspiration.
Jai Vilas
Palace
Splendour
of a different kind exists in the Jai Vilas Palace, current residence of
the Scindia family. Some 35 rooms have been made into the Scindia Museum,
and in these rooms, so evocative of a regal lifestyle, the past comes
alive. Jai Vilas is an Italianate structure, which combines the Tuscan and
Corinthian architectural modes. The imposing Darbar Hall has two central
chandeliers, weighing a couple of tonnes, and hung only after ten
elephants had tested the strength of the roof. Ceilings picked out in
gilt, heavy draperies and tapestries, fine Persian carpets, and antique
furniture from France and Italy are features of these spacious
rooms.
Eye-catching treasures include :
a silver train with cut-glass wagons which served guests as it chugged
around on miniature rails on the tables; a glass cradle from Italy used
for the baby Krishna each Janamashtami; silver dinner services and swords
that were once worn by Aurangzeb and Shah Jehan.
There are,
besides, personal momentoes of the past members of the Scindia family: the
jeweled slippers that belonged to Chinkoo Rani, four-poster beds, gifts
from practically every country in the world, hunting trophies and
portraits. The Scindia Museum offers an unparalleled glimpse into the rich
culture and lifestyle of princely India. Open everyday except Monday from
10 am to 5 pm. Entry fees are Rs. 20/- for Indian and Rs.100/- for foreign
visitors.
Monuments
The father of
Hindustani classical music, the great Tansen, one of the 'nine Jewels' of
Akbar's court, lies buried in Gwalior. The memorial to this great musician
has a pristine simplicity about it, and is built in the early Mughal
architectural style. More than a monument, the Tansen's Tomb is part of
Gwalior's living cultural heritage; it is the venue of a music festival on
a national scale held annually in November-December. Leading musicians of
the country gather here to give performances during the
festival.
Ghous Mohammed
More opulent than
Tansen's Tomb, is the sandstone mausoleum of the Afghan prince, Ghous
Mohammed, also designed on early Mughal lines. Particularly, exquisite are
the screens, which use the pierced stone technique, as delicate as
lace.
The earliest freedom fighters, Tatya Tope and the
indomitable Rani of Jhansi, are commemorated in memorials in Gwalior.
There are cenotaphs at major public crossings, memorials to Scindia kings
and queens. Throughout the city, there are these reminders of a proud
past, of the great men and women of Gwalior who have their place in the
nation's roll of honour.
Located near the Residency at Morar,
the newly constructed Sun Temple takes its inspiration from the famous
Konark Sun Temple in Orissa.
Art Galleries
and Museums
The Gujari Mahal Archaeological Museum houses
rare antiquities, some of them dating back to the 1st century AD. Even
though many of these have been defaced by the iconoclastic Mughals, their
perfection of form has survived the ravages of time. Particularly worth
seeing, is the statue of Shalbhanjika from Gyraspur, the tree goddess,
epitome of perfection in miniature. The statue is kept in the custody of
the museum's curator, and can be seen on request. The museum is open every
day except Monday, from 10 am to 5 pm.
Kala
Vithika
The Kala Vithika is another treasure house of the
arts. It remains closed on Sunday and public holidays. The Municipal
Corporation Museum, which is open, all days except Mondays, has a very
fine natural history section. The old ancestral house of the legendary
Ustad Hafiz Ali Khan has recently been converted into 'Sarod Ghar' -
Museum of Music by the Ustad Hafiz Ali Khan Memorial Trust under the
patronage and guidance of his great son and sarod maestro Ustad Amzad Ali
Khan. The museum has been rebuilt keeping in mind the old traditional
architecture of Gwalior and houses in it ancient instruments of the great
Indian Masters of yesteryears.
Gwalior
Zoo
Gwalior Zoo, open every day from 8 am to 3 p.m., has
some rare species of Indian wildlife kept in natural
surroundings.
How to
Reach
By Air
India Airlines flights connect
Gwalior with Delhi, Bhopal, Indore and Mumbai thrice a week.
By Rail
Gwalior is on the Central Railway's
main Delhi-Mumbai and Delhi-Chennai lines. Among other major trains, the
Shatabdi and the Taj Express connect Gwalior with Delhi and Agra
daily.
By road
Gwalior is
connected by regular bus service with Agra, Mathura, Jaipur, Delhi,
Chandigarh, Lucknow, Bhopal, Chanderi, Indore, Jhansi, Khajuraho, Rewa,
Jabalpur, Ujjain, and Shivpuri.
Best
Season
July to March.
|
