6" Electronic R2-D2 with Sound and Lights
"Artoo expresses his relief also!"-- See Threepio, Star Wars: The
Empire Strikes Back
I was lucky enough to get the 12" scale electronic
two-pack of R2-D2 and C-3PO on clearance for twelve bucks, but much to my
dismay a) C-3PO's ankle was broken and b) the only feature Artoo had was
a front sensor that lit up when you pressed a button on the back of his head.
Hasbro wouldn't fix Threepio since the set had been discontinued, so
I was left with a flawed set. Since its collector value was pretty
much shot to heck anyway, I set about fixing Threepio myself. I figured
while I was at it, I might as well see what I could do about improving R2-D2.
Parts Used:
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The 6" electronic R2-D2 from the Toys "R" Us exclusive 2-pack.
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The internal circuit board and batteries from the 3" Electronic F/X R2-D2.
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X-Acto knife, precision screwdriver, sticky putty, silicone glue, and super
glue.
Deconstruction:
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The first step was to disassemble
the Electronic F/X R2. I ended up having to drill a small hole in the
side of his body in order to split his body in half along the seam. Inside
his body was a small circuit board and a tiny speaker and LED bulb
were in his head. I removed the components and set the shell aside.
(I may have use for him for a future kitbash.)
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The 6" R2-D2 was much more difficult to disassemble, since he is held together
entirely with glue (no screws!). I actually had to search the newsgroups
to see if anyone had ever had luck in disassembling one of these guys without
destroying it in the process. I ended up digging into either side of
his body until I could wedge a couple of screwdrivers into him and crack
him open. I also had to slice through the pegs that connected his head
to the swiveling head base. I tell ya, this is one well-held-together
droid.
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Inside Artoo's head there was a small circuit board with a button that activated
the LED bulb. I removed the bulb from the circuit card and used it
to replace the smaller bulb from the Electronic F/X R2-D2. (I just
wrapped the wires around the leads. I don't own a soldering pen.)
I was now ready to rebuild the 6" R2-D2.
Reconstruction:
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Next came the task of making enough room inside Artoo's head for the new
parts. I chopped away at most of his insides, including the casing
that housed the original batteries. Once there was enough room, I secured
the F/X circuit board in place with putty, making sure to line up the button
on the card that activated the sounds with the button on the top of Artoo's
head. I then used a dab of super glue to secure the inside of the button
on his head to the button on the circuit board. Since the batteries
connect to the F/X board, I used the screw-on plastic panel to secure them.
(They're still replaceable, but I'd have to pop his head back off to
change them.)
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I haven't gotten around to this part yet, but eventually I'm going to putty
up the seams on either side of his body, since I won't need to get into it
anymore.
Estimated Zob-Hours Spent: Maybe five or six? I started this
project in autumn of 1999, but couldn't really figure out how to secure the
circuit board in place so I forgot about it for a while. I know I spent
a lot of time trying to crack this sucker open. Thanks to Carl Kramer
for the advice on how to disassemble him.
THIS PAGE CREATED 2/2/2000