Aim: to provide you with more confidence with your short game, do bear in mind though that chipping is almost certainly the worst part of my game in LS99, thanks to the subtle changes I find my judgement of distance is way gone from the 98 version when I could put it on a sixpence!
As is my usual trick, a warning before I start that along with sand play, chipping is probably the worst part of my game. Some of this is because I havent really paid attention to the changes in LS99 yet, nor practiced enough, but also (brag brag!) I do tend to be a fairways and greens player, well, at pro level anyway, so it's rare for me to have to chip. I've found this is a big problem where I twitch my approach shots all over the place, so I had better read this section myself! I will also say that this data was taken using chips on the flat green at St.Andrews(the 9th) on various greens, and in LS99 (more so than in 98) the elevation and lies of the chips are a lot more of a factor...I think it's these I am struggling with. For your information in LS98 my whole chipping game (which was good) was based on knowing a LW chip was 23 feet at 9 o'clock, a PW about 45 feet and the full distance (12 o'clock) was 23 yards for LW and 35 yards for PW. I played the last 33% of the carry with a PW to assess break on the green and less for the LW.I'm still searching for an easy to remember plan along those lines in 99, when I come up with one, you'll be the first to know. I should also mention my old mate, the American pitbull, Seano1 who was an amazing chipper, and had thousands of the buggers ( nearly all against me! LOL), was hoping for some advice from him, but he's been real busy so you're stuck with me. Before I get a beasting at work I should say my old mate Horns was a pretty handy chipper ( especially in Ryder Cup games! ), but I do remind him that he'd have to be with his Greens in regulation figures ! (Ed: get on with it) alright, alright I'm getting there (Ed: what do you mean Ed ? I am the bloody Ed, tithead!)...thanks to Wils for his input re:chips, particularly the section on adjusting loft to balance lies (Ed: oh,yeah, sorry I forgot that I am the Ed). OK, here are the main chipping charts, then after that I will discuss each in turn before giving some advice on general chipping play and other factors to consider.
The main Chipping Chart
Normal/Medium | Soft,Slow | Hard,Fast | |||||||||||
Pips | Default | 4 clicks up | 8 clicks up | Per-Click | Default Flight | Default Roll | def | +4 | +8 | def | +4 | +8 | |
Lofted Wedge | min | 4-6 | 3-4 | ~1 | 66% | 34% | |||||||
8 | 16-24 | 12-17 | 9-12 | 1.5 | 66% | 34% | 16-21 | 12-15 | 9-11 | 16-27 | 12-20 | 8-13 | |
12 | 30-40 | 22-29 | 16-21 | 2.4 | 75% | 25% | 30-38 | 22-27 | 16-20 | 30-46 | 22-33 | 17-24 | |
16 | 50-60 | 40-50 | 29-36 | 3.0 | 80% | 20% | 51-60 | 40-47 | 29-35 | 51-73 | 38-51 | 29-38 | |
18 | 64-76 | 48-58 | 37-45 | 4.0 | 85% | 15% | |||||||
Pips | Default | 5 clicks up | 11 clicks up | Per-Click | |||||||||
Sand Wedge | min | 5-10 | 4-7 | 3-5 | 50% | 50% | |||||||
8 | 23-38 | 18-27 | 13-17 | 1.9 | 60% | 40% | |||||||
12 | 40-60 | 33-46 | 24-32 | 2.5 | 66% | 34% | |||||||
16 | 77-100 | 62-79 | 43-53 | 4.3 | 77% | 23% | |||||||
18 | 99-120 | 76-93 | 51-62 | 5.3 | 83% | 17% | |||||||
Pips | Default | 5 clicks up | 11 clicks up | Per-Click | Soft,Slow | Hard,Fast | |||||||
Pitching Wedge | min | 5-10 | 4-8 | 4-6 | 50% | 50% | def | +4 | +8 | def | +4 | +8 | |
8 | 20-37 | 18-29 | 14-21 | 1.5 | 54% | 46% | 20-31 | 18-26 | 14-18 | 20-46 | 18-37 | 14-25 | |
12 | 36-62 | 34-52 | 27-38 | 2.2 | 58% | 42% | 38-57 | 32-45 | 27-35 | 36-76 | 34-62 | 27-42 | |
16 | 68-102 | 59-82 | 48-62 | 3.6 | 67% | 33% | 67-90 | 59-75 | 46-57 | 69-116 | 59-95 | 48-71 | |
18 | 92-122 | 77-101 | 59-74 | 4.4 | 75% | 25% |
All distances measured in feet and were taken from chips on a flat green, normal/medium speed. ( St.Andrews 9th hole)
When
The Wind Blows
As above these were taken on the flat 9th green at
St.Andrews, all distances in feet unless otherwise specified
Tailwind | Headwind | Crosswind (drift inches) | ||||||||||
Pitching Wedge |
default | +5 loft | +11 loft | default | +5 loft | +11 loft | default | +5 loft | +11 loft | + | - | |
8 pips | 19-40 | 17-31 | 14-22 | 20-33 | 17-26 | 13-18 | 24" | 20" | 15" | 3 | 4 | |
12 pips | 36-69 | 34-57 | 27-40 | 36-55 | 32-44 | 25-32 | 39" | 36" | 30" | 7 | 7 | |
16 pips | 66-111 | 58-93 | 47-66 | 72-92 | 62-75 | 47-55 | 72" | 60" | 54" | 9 | 9 | |
Lofted Wedge |
default | +4 loft | +8 loft | default | +4 loft | +8 loft | default | +4 loft | +8 loft | + | - | |
8 pips | 16-24 | 12-18 | 9-12 | 14-18 | 10-13 | 7-9 | 15" | 12" | 10" | 0 | 6 | |
12 pips | 29-42 | 22-31 | 17-22 | 27-34 | 21-25 | 14-16 | 30" | 24" | 20" | 2 | 6 | |
16 pips | 50-68 | 42-55 | 29-37 | 38-43 | 27-30 | 54" | 42" | 36" | 8 |
Main
Chip Chart:
This shows the distances in terms of carry, roll
and loft for chips with the wedges. I havent included chips with
clubs like 7,8 and 9iron because it's something I dont use, I
dont like the low ball flight, although I realise some people use
them to keep the ball lower so they can play the break more like
a putt. The most famous example I know of this is OhNoNo
who I think chips with a 7-iron, and he's pretty damn hot with it
too ! In the table, the "per-click" column is just a
rough guide to show you how many feet you lose on the chip for
each click of loft you add to the shot ( maximum of 8 for LW, 11
for SW/PW)..I usually include numbers for +4/+8 loft for LW and
+5/+11 for PW as these are lofts that are halfway to the top or
right at the top, I just interpolate for the inbetween cases.You
can see for all chips, adding one click of loft will shorten the
distance by about 3-4 feet.It's up to you how you want to play
your chips normally, some people use loft right the way to the
top, to get a high, soft ball path that stops quickly. Whether
you want to do that or play them normally, I would try to
remember just the values for 8 and 16 pips for the wedge-chips (
and 12 pips if you want )..thats 24 and 60 feet for LW, and 37
and 102 feet for PW.By knowing these values you have a pretty
good chance of learning by feel where to hit a chip thats between
those distances, but its vital to know the maximum you can get
out and useful to know the halfway distance too.You can also see
here the effect of different green speeds. For the LW, soft slow
doesnt stop the ball that much because most of the carry is in
the air, while a PW is much shorter on soft/slow, say about 90%
of the distance, while a hard/fast surface will add 15-20% to a
PW chip.For LW chips its about 15% except when you start adding
loft then the effect of hard/fast greens is reduced to almost
nothing for a lot of loft. See here, as usual, how I'm trying to
think about this in terms of general trends, not trying to learn
a million numbers...So, I can remember 24-60 feet for LW, 37-102
for PW, take off about 3-4 feet per loft click, and the chips are
90% of normal on soft/slow ( except for LW..mostly in
air...little effect)...add 15-20% for hard/fast except for very
lofted LW chips.You should also be able to see from the table
that as you hit a chip harder (more pips on the meter) the carry
through the air is increased, and the roll is relatively
shorter....its surprising how the roll amount
in terms of feet isnt that different for a half-hit chip and a
full hit chip..a few feet more for LW,10-15 more feet for
PW.Likewise if you come from the other direction and think in
terms of shortening a chip, its the carry you are affecting most,
so be careful of those chips you have to carry over rough/banks
and then have a pin close to the edge....just as in real life,
you have to carry to the fringe at least to keep it out of the
rough ( where it sticks) but you may not be able to stop it after
that...
Unlike the sand chips, your snap will affect the line of the
chip, so it is important to hit 6 o'clock, and at champ level a
badly missed snap will also cause a loss of distance on the
chip.For a totally flat green with no lie at your ball, you
should be thinking in terms of holing the chip. Aim at the pin
and get the pace right so it has just enough to hit the hole (if
its not too hard the pin can help put it in) and you'll hole a
lot of these. I would say though that it's worth putting those if
its not too long, as its easier to overhit a chip and bounce off
the pin, the pace on a putt is more accurate (see putting section
for including the fringe in your strength calculation).As far as
playing a break on the green is concerned you should have a feel
for the sort of carry you are going to play.The trend is for the
LW to carry 66% (at half pace) to 80%+ (at full pace) of its
distance, so when you have picked a strength to use, work out a
rough value between these two and assume thats where the chip
will land...from that point, the ball behaves like a putt so play
the break as if you're putting from there.On soft,slow greens by
the way especially when the break is very small near the pin, I
often use a lofted wedge chip, maybe even with loft added and hit
it so the carry is actually very close to the flag, it wont kick
on much and should hit the pin and drop in ( aim to edge of hole
if theres a slight break at the cup)...as ever, you'll have to
come up with something that you are happy with, so get to the
practice ground and hit some chips to find your way.You'll see
the carry for the PW is less, about 55% at half pace to 75%+ at
full, so you'll need to play more break on landing than the LW.
Wind
Chip Chart:
The next chart is just to show the effect of the
wind on your chips, which seems more keen than in LS98.For a wind
behind you, think in terms of an extra 3-9 feet for a PW (3 feet
is 8 pips, 9 feet is 16 pips)...and for LW think 0-8 feet. With
the wind in your face the PW loses 4-10 feet depending on the
pace (between 8 and 16 pips) and the LW loses about 6 feet across
the board.(Thats what the +/- column is in the table to show the
gain/loss caused by the wind). As with the flop shot I mention
elsewhere in this guide, it can be useful to add loft into the
wind to get the chip to stop, even though it will be much
shorter.A fully lofted LW or PW into the wind will only go 30 or
55 feet (respectively) but the carry is 85-90% so it stops really
quickly...can be an asset on firm greens. The most useful note is
probably to look at the drift caused in a crosswind. Remember you
should think about carry to work out the landing zone and the
break caused by the green, and then look at the extra drift
caused by the wind ( these quite often cancel out to some
extent)..the simple way is to consider the two factors separately
and sum ( amount of break +/- drift of wind) and then aim there
relative to the pin.The range of drifts caused by a crosswind for
a PW and LW hit between 8 and 16 pips are: 24" to 72"
for PW (2 to 6 feet for 8 to 16 pips) and 15" to 54"
(think 1 to 4 feet to remember easier) for LW.Now you believe
that for chips you are hitting into the wind, you do have to
account for that wind ( I wonder when Access will make wind
affect putts/putting snap....) You'll be surprised at first to
see that the more loft you add to a chip, the LESS
it drifts in the wind, and is generally affected. This is not
insanity at work, it's because the carry
is being reduced, therefore the ball is NOT
in the air for as long as the default case, even though you are
sending it higher, it is landing more quickly too.
General
Chipping:
Apart from the rare (and nice) occasions when you
get a shortish chip onto a flat green, you wont be concerned with
holing out. What you are trying to ensure is that your chip lands
as close as possible to the pin so you have a short (or gimmie)
putt.I'm sure somewhere there will be an easy formula to work out
the effect of sidehill and up/downhill lies like the one ForeLeft
provided for normal shots, but I don't know one, so let me know
if you do find one.You must look at the lie arrow showing your
ball's lie. If its a sidehill lie you should allow for some
sideways movement but this wont be much unless the lie is very
steep to one side. You'll have to learn this by feel I'm
afraid.For uphill and downhill lies, one good way to look at it
is the Wils method. Try to picture the lie as a certain number of
clicks of loft, then simply apply that amount of loft ( in the
other direction ) and play the distance as though it wasn't on a
lie.So, if you had a slightly uphill lie, Wils would click the
loft down one or two and ignore the lie.Obviously there's a limit
to how many clicks of loft you can apply, before you either run
out of clicks or you are in danger of hitting into a bank, so
sooner or later you are going to have to be able to think of the
lie in terms of a distance ( remember 1 click is about the same
as 3 or 4 feet for most chips) , and this is what I do, hit
uphill lie chips harder, downhill ones softer....you have to also
consider the flight path of the ball and the slopes in the shot,
if you are facing a steep bank you are going to have to have
enough air on the shot to clear it, if the green slopes upwards a
lot you must be aware that the chip is going to bump into the
slope and stop much quicker than normal, vice versa if it's
downhill...factor in the green speed too, which can exaggerate
the effect more ( downhill,hard,fast chips and uphill, soft,slow
chips can be tricky to judge)..Have a rough idea of the carry so
you can factor in some break on the green, and for longer, tricky
chips (much break,bad lie) try to use the mindset I mentioned in
the putting section where you identify a safe zone that will
leave you an easier putt, even at the expense of forgetting about
trying to hole it.I really don't want to go on too much here,
because in all honesty my chipping game is not up to the standard
I would like, so I don't want to preach to you...but there's a
lot of information here for you to take what you need and then to
find your own style. I am moving more to the idea of playing all
chips lofted to the top so they stop quickly but I really do have
to practice some more to get a natural feel for the distances,
especially from 8 pips upwards...Apologies if this section isn't
up to standard, but I don't want to give you the impression that
I am "da man" on this issue, so you'll have to work at
this yourself a lot more to reach your own conclusions. For
flattish greens, my numbers are pretty good, with and without
wind, but you'll find that the really great chippers have a great
feel for those chips that are far from the ones you'll find at
the 9th of St.Andrews....best of luck to you in your practice!
Top Tips:
Develop a method that suits you, ie play chips normally or with lots of loft
Have an idea of the sort of carry you can expect so you can adjust your aim for break on the greens
Remember to include the effect of the wind on all chips
The lie and and slopes are important, and green speeds so use your brain a bit more here to visualise the shot
You can adjust the loft of the club to counterbalance the effect of an up/downhill lie to a certain extent
Try to think in terms of getting close enough to have an easy putt before worrying about holing out
Take the putter out if its flat all the way and not too far from the hole!
Study the point where the ball will land to assess any possible "kick" from a downslope of "bump" from an upslope
A click of loft changes the distance of a chip by about 3-4 feet
The typical carry for chips varies from 50-85% depending on strength and whether its a PW or LW