Decals

For Tricky Decals - Decals that seem to not to want to lay down can be coaxed into doing so with the following technique. WARNING - this is tricky - if you aren't carefull you can make a big mess. Lift up the decal and apply a small amount of liquid cement to the model's surface with an old brush. Blow the decal down woth your breath or use a light single stroke with a brush. DO NOT TOUCH THE DECAL AGAIN! The glue will melt the decal thus adhearing it to the model. If you are careful this coes out great. If you touch the decal while the glue is setting it will smear like paint - the decal at this point it melted and until it dries is very suceptable to damage. Once it dries it will be fine. I've used this on old decals (from 1960's kits) and those tricky German losenge patterns.

Wait 2-3 days before dullcoating - Always wait at least two days after applying decals before applying a dull or gloss laquer coat. The moisture in the decals will react badly to the laquer if you coat too soon and the decals will wrinkle.

How to apply a decal:

• Cut away all decal film you can do easily. Use a very sharp knife, don't press hard as you don't have to cut the paper.
• Put a few drops of Micro Set into the water before you wet the decals.
• Wet the decal, but don't let it stay in the water.
• Apply Micro Set to the surface you want the decal.
• Slide it there.
• Press down with a soft brush, blot off excess water.
• Brush on Micro Sol, press down gently.
• Place the kit so the decal lies horizontally (if possible).
• Let dry slightly, apply more Micro Sol, press down. Don't worry about small wrinkles, but try to smooth down large ones. The decal will contract again when it dries. Repeat about twice.

No guarantees, but this is what works best for me.

Decal film:

The decal film is cellulose acetate by chemical composition, and all of the so-called "decal setting solutions", such as Micro (nowadays Super) Set/Sol, Humbrol Decal Cote, Testors etc are based on acetic acid and some detergent. The detergent lowers the surface tension of water and acetic acid saturates and softens the decal film. As it is amorphous by composition, it does not dissolve, but softens; while the acetic acid evaporates away, the decal film sets to conform the surface beneath it.

I have worked with glacial acetic acid (straight from the lab of Organic Chemistry in HUT) and made an aqueous solution of 2:5. It tames most of the commercial and kit decals (the brand I have had most difficulties with is the "Cartograf" used by Italeri and Esci). Even some stronger brands of household vinegar might be suitable !

One of my friends has gone even longer and he uses a solution of CH3COOH, MEK, water and dish-washing detergent as a decal-setting solution. He has not revealed the exact composition, though !

Sometimes, if the gloss overcoat is not very smooth, it helps to polish the area to be decalled with a cotton bud first.