Lesson 7: Detailing

Stretched Sprue:

There are many materials and pre-molded parts available for adding your own small details to models, but one of the most basic is the left-over plastic in your kit. The sprue or parts tree is the tubular plastic branch that your parts came attached to. If held over a candle until it is soft, it can be stretched to make threads of different thicknesses. These are useful for making aerials, flying wires, spark plug cables, etc. Take both ends of the plastic in either hand and place it about one inch above a candle flame but not close enough to catch fire. Be careful. When the plastic has started to distort, it can be pulled apart with an even motion. Hold apart until the plastic cools. With practice you will get the thickness and length desired.

Detailing:

Generally it is the small details that add the most realism to models. Some standard examples:

1. Some models look more realistic when they show signs of wear and constant maintenance. Edges should be nicked with silver spots where the paint has been knocked off. Worn areas should also be indicated around access panels. Engine and exhaust stains can be simulated by applying a mixture of flat black and mineral spirits or paint thinner. Oil stains can be made in the same way but remember that oil stains should be swept across the model horizontally, as it is much lighter and moved by the slipstream. Mud stains are made by mixing brown and flat black perhaps with bit of talcum powder mixed in. Paint some panels in a lighter shade to bring out details. Rust can be simulated with a red and black, or brown mixture. For vehicles in heavy use, and abuse, parts can be bent or banged. Cut off or file down sections of the model (thin the parts by grinding or filing the part down first from behind before altering the part).

2. To show panel and part lines a thin line of paint or ink can be applied using a brush or "rapido-graph" type pen. (Black may be too stark- a little grey or brown can be mixed into it for a more realistic look.)

3. Many parts that are not in scale can be replaced by more authentic looking pieces. A thin plastic sheet or wire part usually looks much more realistic than the kit part it replaces.

4. Figures have improved greatly in past years with faces in particular being highly detailed. By painting a flat colour that is mixed with tan or brown, a realistic look can be achieved.

5. Transparent plastic parts can be easily modified. Windows and openings can be sawed (not cut) in two; a hobby or razor saw is good for this. Put masking tape over the rest of the piece while working to prevent damage. If your original clear piece needs replacement, you can mold another with a vacuum forming machine, using clear plastic sheets. if you don't have access to one, the following procedure can be tried: coat the outside surface of the old piece with a very thin layer of Vaseline. Next, apply a coat of clear fingernail polish and allow it to dry. Over a period of a few days, add more and more layers of polish until you have built up a thickness of 1/32" or more. When the final coat is dry, separate the old piece from the film of nail polish. Trim as needed and glue the molded polish part to the model with white glue.

6. Parts that are difficult to paint can be masked with adhesive tape cut into thin strips with a hobby knife and applied carefully to the surface. Thin strips of coloured tape can also be used for areas.

7. Painting has to be realistic and a thin, slightly "whitened" colour that is sprayed provides the best appearance for a scale model. A blending in of colours or a subtle shading can be achieved by using artist's pastels. Grind up pastels to make a dust then apply with a soft brush.

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