Scribing

Q: How Does one scribe good lines?

A:There are a bunch of techniques for scribing good lines. From asking and watching other modellers scribe, I've picked up three techniques which work very well for me.

• First, don't scribe anything until you get a scribing template. Verlinden produces 1/72 and 1/48 scale aircraft scribing templates, but their uses go far beyond aircraft and scale. I have the 1/48 version and it's full of useful shapes. I use a needle with most of these shapes because the dragger scribers can't negotiate the tight turns. I also have a couple of "engineering" templates which have different and larger shapes. The Verlinden stuff came from my favorite local hobby store, but you can mail order one from a place like Battle Hobbies if you can't find it locally. I found the engineering templates at an art supply store.
• Second, find some of the plastic tape used in label makers. You know, the kind where you dial a letter and squeeze the trigger and it spits out a label? When you cut into thin slices, with the straight-edge to one side, this tape is just sticky and tough enough to serve as an excellent guide for scribbing long lines, whether straight or curved.
• Third, consider building a simple jig out of styrene or wood for repetitive scribing, such as the lines around the four engine cowlings of a B-17. Think of this as a cheap lathe. I can get into more detail if you'd like.

I mostly build planes, so I use a ruler for wing lines, the tape for the fuselage lines, and the templates, taped down, for access hatches (radio compartments, fuel filler caps, etc.).

Of course, preparation for line scribing is a whole other issue. We can get into that, too, if you'd like to.

The techniques I use for scribing panel lines involves heavy use of templates and guides. For circles, I use a compass, though I only use this method when some later detail will cover up the hole left by the center point. For straight lines (or on rounded hull shapes, the "great circle" line) I use plastic drafting templates, metal templates, or the edge of a sheet of brass. Its important that your "straight" edge contour to the shape of the model as much as possible. It needn't be absolutely snug with the model when intervening details make things tight, but closer the better. On the first pass, use a pencil or marker to outline the shape. On the second pass use a brand new X-acto blade (or variation thereof) and draw in the plastic the intended scribe lines. Make additional passes with the knife if the plastic is hard or the panel detail especially deep. The final scribing can be made with one of several tools; some work better than others. The back of a #11 X-acto blade, a tungsten scribe, or an actual model scribing tool (Squadron makes one). One helpful note on avoiding leaving the intended line. Keep the knife passes light and uniform, but they must make a groove in the model. If the scribe bogs down or begins to give additional back pressure on a section of the line, STOP. The only place the scribe will go, is where you don't want it to. Put the scribe down and pick up the knife and re-emphasize the area. Try again. If the scribe continues to bog down. Use another implement of destruction. I have a number of very fine saws, and will on occasion use one of them to clean out the area where the scribe has trouble with.

Q: Can I use raised lines as a guide when scribing lines?

A: A technique I've used to good effect is to sand off *almost* all of the raised panel lines before scribing. I start with 600 grit wet/dry used wet and finish off with well-used 600 wet/dry wet. Once scribbed, I sand off the remaining raised lines along with the ridges caused by the scriber using my well-used 600 wet. Then I clean the gunk out of the recessed lines by lightly retracing with the scriber. This last step is a real pain.

Q: Are there and scribing templates to help me?

A: Verlinden produces sets of scribing templates in 1/72, 1/48, and I believe also 1/32 scales (others produce these as well. dfk). These templates are thin stainless steel and have a variety of shapes like circles, ovals, squares, rectangles, and zig zag patterns for things like ` some types of panel lines. They are flexible enough to be placed in strange positions.

Eraser shields that draftsmen use are also useful. They are thin stainless steel pieces with shapes like circles, squares, triangles, and others. They make good templates.

You can also make your own templates from sheet plastic, or even thin sheet brass. For strange shapes put a clear plastic sheet on the line, and mark it on the plastic, then cut the plastic. You have a custom template.

What do you use to actually scribe? I find that a sewing needle held by a mechanical pencil works very well. Also, a #11 X-acto blade works well when run backwards.

Aother useful technique invloves a long, trelatively thin piece of sheet plastic - preferably clear. I cut a piece of 15 Thou or 20 Thou 1/2" by 3" to 12" and attach a piece of double-sided tape a tiny bit behind the scribing edge. Be sure to use a steel straight edge to get the cut straight. Then, just lay it where you want it, and it sticks - even to relatively tight curves. If the curve is too tight for the sheet, use a thinner plastic. When the tape stops sticking, peel it off and put on another. This also works really well for drawing-on panel lines.