Upscale Restaurants, London

Since the British waste so much money on soccer, dogs, horses, warm beer, cold women and breakfast, there is not much left for decent dining on most of the island. �If you want to eat well in England, have breakfast three times a day, postulated savant-vivre Somerset Maugham. �London is different, however, because of its large foreign population. �It is due to the numerous French, Italian, Indian and Chinese restaurants that cuisine standards improved over the past decade. �Many nationalities still consider British cooking an affront to the palate, but there are a few specialities which win general approval: smoked Scotch salmon, potted shrimps, jugged hare, Welsh lamb, roast beef and Yorkshire pudding, Dover sole, steak and oyster pie. �Stilton cheese, mincemeat or treacle tart and summer pudding. �Even if the English don't take their food seriously, they do care where they're seen eating it. �Lunch and dinner clubs are the favourites of successful actors, writers, advertising directors, fashion photographers and wealthy landowners. �If you can't sit with the peers at Boodles or millionaires at Brooks; acclaimed scribes Harold Pinter, Antonia Fraser and Auberon Waugh at Harry's Bar; international polo-pro Julian Hipwood, PR-rocket Billy Hamilton and socialite designer Nicholas Haslam at Mark's. �Gossip columnists, fashion followers and film stars eat at Langan's Brasserie (on the ground floor, never upstairs!). �However, true English aristocrats take little interest in the hangouts of the trendies or in the latest rave restaurants. �They settle instead for the privacy of their club.

The Dorchester Terrace is still the best place in town for the over thirties to enjoy a civilized d�nerdansant celebration. The spacious, luxurious int�rieur is the perfect setting for cuisine of world renown. Let the ma�tre d'h�tel advise you on the impressive and opulent menu. The comme-il-faut service is suitable accompaniment to the polished cooking. If you have over-indulged in the irresistible sweet trolley, fox trot it off on the well decorated dance-floor, then catch your breath in the super-elegant Bar with its Murano chandeliers, mirrored columns and soft leather chairs. For dignified dining in subdued splendour on one of the finest dishes that Britain can offer go to the traditional Grill.

The English House's cuisine makes all the snide remarks about Britain's culinary malheur sound like communist propaganda. Situated at a quaint intersection of streets with a suburban pub en face, the little white townhouse from the 1850's glitters of warm lighting and Le Beau Monde in Dior, dinner jackets and designer jeans. �The Bel-Etage restaurant -- and the upstairs sitting room, with Chippendale fauteuils before a cozy chimney -- are glowing with charm, the walls done up in colourful textiles, the five tables set with chandeliers, original accessories all over the tiny dining room and the minuscule s�par�e for lovers. Dried flowers under glass, elaborate mirrors and Old Masters adorn the int�rieur. �Potted smoked salmon, watercress soup, steak, kidney and mushroom pie, crab in puff pastry or real pork sausage served with applesauce, hot apple and mincemeat crumble, brown bread ice cream and the best fudge this side of the Atlantic all contribute to its prominent standing as one of England's foremost restaurants. �With Haute Cuisine Anglaise! �Margaret Thatcher loves it as much as Michael Foot.

Connaught. London's snobs make it a rule to lunch in the Restaurant and dine at the Grill. �The specialities (Sole Souffl� Mayfair, Coulibiac de Saumon, Mousse d'Homard Neptune), as well as national favourites (grouse, pigeon, liver and lamb), have earned the Connaught coveted Michelin stars, The wood-panelled dining room (try to sit at the far end corner by the window for the best view of who is arriving -- outside and inside) is as dignified as the service. �Michel Bourdin tries to keep the kitchen on a par with the atmosphere, and this is the place --outside of the top clubs -- to get acquainted with English cuisine. �Bon-vivant publisher Lord Weidenfeld swears by the Connaught's partridge, steak, oyster pie, and bread and butter pudding.

Bombay Palace. Although there are Bombay Palaces in New York, Washington, L.A. and Chicago, this is the first in Britain -- indeed the first in Europe. �Quietly opulent in pale turquoise and cane, with a red uniformed doorman to usher you into the bar, this is a suave background for some delicately-spiced starters and mouth-watering sikh kebabs marinated in ginger, coriander and other spices, and cooked in the tandoor oven.

La Tante Claire is not only a serious restaurant but also a gastronomic experience. Unfortunately, many true gourmets have discovered Pierre Koffmann's talents, so book well in advance to get a table. Small, elegant and exquisite service, it attracts discerning diners in couture and Cartier. The superb menu includes specialities such as g�teau de foie de volaille au coulis de homard, foie de veau au citron vert and pied de cochon farcie aux morilles.

Le Gavroche is run by the Roux Brothers -- Michel and Albert. This, the golden link in their chain (Le Poulbot, Le Gamin, Waterside Inn), has achieved the proper smoothness which accompanies the extravagant prices. The Roux Brothers received their culinary training in the kitchens of ambassadors and billionaires (among them the Rothschilds), rather than in restaurants, and you can taste la diff�rence. Accolades abound. Among the constantly varying specialities are Mousseline de homard au Champagne, Souffl� Suissesse, Supr�me de barbue Silvano, Caneton Gavroche, Sabl� aux fraises and Souffl� � l'orange. Dinner at Le Gavroche is not only a culinary highlight in London but also a social affair. French diplomats, francophile foreigners and the more informed food fans from the island crowd the small room nightly. (If you are impressed by this Roux Brothers affair, you should pay Michel a visit in his riverside idyll at Bray-on-Thames, the Waterside Inn, which is particularly pretty on a summer's evening, but equally when the nights draw in. The raison d'�tre: Haute Cuisine -- not �l'Anglaise.)

Scott's, a luxurious landmark in the heart of elegant Mayfair, has been around (although not in the same premises) for over three hundred years, and some of the staff seem to have been here since the opening. The menu is English, the client�le rather mixed. Occasionally, there's royal cracking lobster limbs or indulging in bread and butter pudding, but usually Bavarian dialect, Southern Drawl and Jet Set Esperanto outweigh the nasal Oxford accent. Concentrate on the day's catch -- salmon, sole, plaice, skate, turbot, halibut, or trout are prepared to perfection. Smoked cod roe and gull's eggs are tempting starters, and lamb cutlets, calf liver and bacon and carpetbag steak are meaty alternatives. For a quick lunch, Scott's Oyster Bar is the chic-est between-business rendezvous in town.

Cecconi's the Savini of London, is super-elegant, refreshing, spacious and ludicrously expensive. Don't give your lunch partner that rose from the vase on your table: this throw-away gesture on your behalf will land squarely on the bill. It is utterly pleasant to eat here -- there are beautifully groomed women at every table. Here well-known interior decorators lunch their clients, ladies their best girl-friends, photographers their latest models. Vogue editors, musical wunderkind Daniel Barenboim and man of many faces Alec Guiness join the fashionable Fetuccini-Set frequently. But you are never too close to anyone to become disillusioned -- especially if you're immersed in the sheer pleasure of homemade pasta. Taglierini verdi, grilled scampi, vitello tonnato, piccata and zabaglione are an attractive diet for the clients of neighbouring Zandra Rhodes and Emanuels.

Wilton's is very, very British and very, very old, having been established in the fashionable area surrounding St. James' Palace since 1782. Redevelopment of its old site in Bury Street forced it to move to its present location only a tiara's throw away, but so many of its most familiar features -- the photographs of the Royals above the oyster bar, the paintings, the Chinese embroideries, the lights and banquette seats -- were relocated too, that Wilton's noble patrons hardly noticed the transition. The client�le is distinguished, exclusive, and rich. Most have been coming for years, as their fathers and grandfathers before them, for splendid British roasts, oysters and lobsters, fresh Devon dressed crab, Dover sole and creamy Stilton.

Simpson's-in-the-Strand is a British institution, with its charm and foibles carefully treasured. �Among the former are the clear turtle soup, the roast sirloin of beef and Yorkshire pudding, the roast saddle of mutton and red current jelly, the roast Aylesbury duck and the boiled syrup roll. �Among the latter are vegetables, and the no-ladies restriction in some of the dining rooms at lunch. �What is so pleasing here is that time has stopped, not only in the d�cor -- from the revolving mahogany door to the vaulted ceiling -- but also in the service. �(Don't forget to tip the carver who will wheel the silver trolley with the choice of roast to your table). �Through eight reigns -- from George IV to Elizabeth II -- and under the patronage of Charles Dickens and other literary personalities of the times, Simpson's has been an oracle to the bon vivants of the day.

The Guinea Grill, a tiny mews pub-restaurant tucked away off Berkeley Square, is bliss for carnivores. �Have a pint at the bustling bar before climbing a couple of steps to arrive in front of a spectacle of prime sides of beef, lamb, pork and veal. �Make your choice and indicate to the cook exactly how you want it prepared, and then proceed into the small labyrinth of dining rooms. The plastic-flowered wintergarden room attracts J. Walter Thompson executives, Bond Street nymphettes and contemporary antique dealers. �The portions are so enormous that they tend to spill off your plate, but the empty dishes which return to the kitchen attest to the delightful satisfaction of the patrons.

Claridge's Restaurant is to London what the R�gence-Plaza is to Paris -- utterly beautiful, sophisticated, and elegant endroit for lunch. The room, recently redecorated by Colefax & Fowler, the sumptuous tables and the stealthy waiters create a calm for the wealthy, the noble, the leaders of finance, the diplomats and the politicians, and a sprinkling of stars from Hollywood and Cinecitta. It has retained its time-honoured custom of having no bar, nor dancing. �Before lunch and dinner a Hungarian orchestra plays softly in the foyer and drinks are served by frocked footmen. �The cuisine lives up to the long-standing tradition expected by the Old Guard regulars.

Claridge's Causerie, on the other hand, is less formal and the menu lighter. �Here, guests may help themselves to smorgasbord from a centre table, or lunch simply on Eggs Benedict, slices of roast beef and fresh fruit.

The Savoy Grill, Chef Escoffier's old turf, is resplendent in panelled yew and a menu which attracts the Upper Crust as much as do their nostalgic feelings. They come for the straightforward grills, for the tasty steak, kidney & oyster pudding, for smoked salmon, caviar, (Beluga naturally) or for a sophisticated Zephir de Loup de Mer Marguerite, a fillet of sea bass grilled with fennel, served with cucumber and grapefruit flavoured with mint.

Brasserie St. Quentin. Famous restaurant critic Quentin Crewe has come out of the closet and from behind his typewriter to put his opinions bravely on the line here and to offer an unusually wide range of menus from a lavish breakfast starting at eight in the morning until an after theatre snack at one. Eat your way through the imaginative menu or just indulge your way through the imaginative menu or just indulge in a gourmet snack. Conveniently situated for the shopper tired from braving the Harrods crowds, one can either relax at the attractive chrome-and glass bar or on the gold chairs.

Langan's Brasserie. Le tout-Londres enjoys itself at this large, buzzing well-known brasserie. �The owners do too: Chef Richard Shepherd and actor Michael Caine. With its steel and mirrored interior, parquet floor, tropical fans and an enviable collection of prints and paintings reminiscent of 'Casablanca' and La Coupole, it sets the perfect stage for Claire Bloom, Ursula Andress, Deborah Kerr, Thea Porter, Harold Pinter, David Bailey, Mick Jagger -- in fact, everyone. �The inventive menu, illustrated by habitu� David Hockney, includes duck p�t�, spinach souffl� with anchovy sauce, smokes trout with horseradish, supr�me of sea bass with fennel, cr�me br�l�e.

Langan's Bistro. Quality over quantity. �Brown paper over the tablecloth. �Seasonal dishes takes precedent over what is considered chic, with fresh fare like trout and oranges, chops with white onion sauce, kiwi vacherin.

Porters English Restaurant and porters bar. The owner, the Earl of Bradford, takes great pride in his pub style, family restaurant and the bar next door. Perennial favourites such as fish and chips, steak and mushroom pie, smoked haddock fishcakes on a bed of spicy lentils or Aberdeen Angus sirloin steak are a mainstay. �Try resisting Lady Bradford's banana and ginger steamed pudding, marmalade bread and butter pudding or spotted dick - which strangely causes amusement with American visitors. �The restaurant has air-conditioning, restaurant computer systems and a modern interior design, which has enhanced both atmosphere and comfort. �The architecture and design of the bar are stunning and the stylish Lloyd Loom furniture is comfortable whilst the customer is presented with genuine choice and quality at an extremely sensible cost. �With a selection of five real ales, fifteen lagers and eighteen wines by the glass along with a great cappuccino and espresso - not to mention the option of table service of all drinks and freshly prepared food - you will find this place worth your while.

Bombay Brasserie's opening by the Taj group owners of many of India's best hotels, was delayed until astrologers advised on the most propitious day. And lo, the Stars augured a fortune: in spite of being off-beam as far as the West End is concerned, Bombay Brasserie attracts the gilded in crowd. The d�cor is in keeping with London's current Raj nostalgia -- all wicker chairs, sepia photographs, palms and languidly rotating fans, plus a glasserie for the feeling of dining alfresco. The food is lusciously Indian: from tikkas and kebab � la North-West Frontier to the Parsee wedding speciality of tender mutton cooked with dried apricots. Buffet only at lunch, � la carte evenings.

The Red Fort, with its rose-coloured walls (after Delhi's famous landmark) is the up-market version of a co-operative of eight London restaurants all noted for their splendid Indian and Bangladesh cuisine, and notorious for their North Indian cooking (subtle rather than fiery spices and herbs) which never fails to draw raves from food critics.
The well-stocked cocktail bar fronting the restaurant isn't as decadent as it appears -- many of the cocktails are exotic -- mango-based, for instance -- rather than alcoholic.

Joy King Lau is Cantonese and authentic. No stars or stumpers here, but ninety-five percent of the patrons are Chinese, and that speaks for itself. Norman Han offers superb dim sum with a simple decor.

Odin's. Paintings and drawings form the d�cor of this small restaurant. The kitchen caters to both French and English palates, but most people feel the English dishes are best, especially the crab soup, lamb, pork with walnuts, all the fish dishes and the vegetables. �Odin's really is a delight for lunch, if a little too quiet in the evening.

Le Souffl�. Sophisticated and up-market, this is the type of discreet surroundings to which foreign royalty keeping a low profile go to indulge in a spot of high living. You don't have to have a souffl� here, but it's the master chef's speciality, just as truffles are his hallmark. The pastry chef is equally talented, his creations no easier to resist than Peter Kromberg's sensational Souffl� au fromage blanc et au coulis d'abricot.

Fortnum's Fountain (at Fortnum & Mason) is in a category of its own when it comes to snacks, sweets and light meals. Try omelettes, Welsh rarebit, chicken pie, sandwiches, sundaes or any of the ice creams. But don't do it at high noon, which is high tide among clients. Come when the tide subsides -- just before twilight.