In the mountains the air is fresh and clear and laced with the sweet wooden smell of cedar trees. We make a day trip to Cedar Valley in the jeep, with plenty of bottled water and grapes stashed behind the back seat.

Ian and Roger take turns driving. The mountain roads are narrow in places, stony and uneven, and certainly winding as they follow the mountain sides. Looking over the edge of the road there is a very steep fall down to the valley below.

The mufflon is the national animal of Cyprus. It's also an endangered spieces. Near Cedar Valley there's a fenced area where a group of them are protected. We peer through the tall fence and, when our eyes get used to the dark shapes and shadows among the trees, we do manage to see a few of them.