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The compact cassette tape was introduced by
Philips back in the early 1960's.
It was was originally intended for use in office dictaphone machines but it soon found its way into the home recording market. Because of its compact size it became popular as a replacement for the many reel-to-reel recorders that were in use at that time. It can be argued that the sound quality of the new compact cassette was a step backwards in sound quality as the speed of the compact cassette was a steady 1 7/8ips (Inches Per Second) and many reel-to-reel recorders could be varied upto 30ips in speed. As you may already know the faster the tape runs the wider the bandwidth and the better the recording. You may be asking yourself; do cassette decks still have a place in a modern hifi system given the many new formats available boasting super high quality performances? Absolutely! The main reason being that you can record whatever you want and play it wherever you want. You can record from any source: CD, tape, radio, or records. You can record custom mix tapes, with any songs, in any order. You can easily and quickly make multiple copies for playback at home, in your car, or in your portable. Or you can simply enjoy any of the thousands of available pre-recorded cassettes. Many mini and midi systems still ship with cassette decks along with virtually very motor car built over the past fifteen years. With the advent of the new formats personal cassette players have dropped to ridiculous prices while their performance has soared. It's no wonder cassettes continue to be so popular.
Considering this incredible versatility, as well as the improved sound
quality and value of today's cassette decks, now is a better time than
ever to invest in a new deck! If like myself you're somewhat of a purist when it comes to recording quality, you may want to look for decks with Dolby S noise reduction. And if you don't need a dubbing deck, look for a 3-head, single-well model. Whilst recording a cassette tape, a 3-head deck lets you compare the tape to the source and adjust bias for optimum accuracy! Just as a footnote. Undoubtedly (in my opinion) the king of the cassette market is Nakamichi, closely followed by Revox and Teac. |
TAPE TYPES Cassette tape consists of a backing material such as PVC and on this is bonded a number of different coatings, all of which are capable of being magnetized. Playing time is denoted by the code numbers C-30, C-45, C-90 and C-120 with the numerical digits denoting the playing time in minutes if both sides are played in sequence. C-120 cassette tapes are very prone to stretching and breaking and their usage is generally frowned upon by most users and cassette deck manufacturers. C-90 is the most popular/common cassette available as it will accommodate a full LP or CD on each side. The reason for the failure rate on these is that the tape is much thinner. These are IEC (International Electrotechnical Committee) standards. They provide broad standards for all tapes, and end the need to align a deck for an individual tape.
TYPE 1 - Ferric Tapes A flexible base with fine particles of iron adhered to it, which can be magnetized by the record head. The quality of this tape is variable but is probably the most common and cheapest around. Sometimes referred to a 'IEC Type 1'. TYPE 2 - CRO² Chrome Tapes Capable of higher frequency response than standard ferric tape and should only be used on equipment with the facility for the playback of CRO²/Chrome tape. Also referred to as 'IEC Type 2'. TYPE 4 - Metal Tapes Even better quality. By using pure metal as a coating, recordings can be produced with even less background noise and a better frequency response. Again the tape deck must be equipped with the facility for the playback of metal tapes. Also known as 'IEC Type 4'.
Most modern cassette recorders sense the tape type by the holes in the back of the housing and adjust bias and equalization to compensate for the differences. A few top cassette recorders (the Revox and several Nakamichis) automatically align to a particular tape by recording test tones and then setting their own equalization. In practice, each brand and model tape is slightly different. For the very best recordings, adjust your recorder for the tape you use most, or buy the tape which works best in your recorder. Manufacturers adjust each recorder for a specific tape at the factory. So the best tape might be the one referenced in the recorder owner's manual. In a recording studio, it is common to align the bias and equalization for the specific tape used, and stick with that tape. |
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DOLBY Noise Reduction sytems
While they differ in the details of their operation and the degree of noise reduction they provide, all three Dolby noise reduction systems answer the same question: how can noise be reduced without harming the music?
Unlike simple noise filters, Dolby NR makes no attempt to remove noise once it has been mixed in with the music. Rather, it prevents noise from being added to the music as it is recorded in the first place.
This two-step process first encodes the music when it is recorded, and then decodes it when the tape is played back. This is why the Dolby noise reduction system in your recorder should be switched on both when you make a cassette and when you play it.
In recording, the Dolby NR circuit makes the quiet parts of the music, which are most susceptible to noise, louder than normal. When the encoded tape is played back, the Dolby NR circuit is switched around to in turn lower the previously boosted parts of the music.
This automatically lowers any noise added to the music by the recording process, and it restores the music to its original form so that nothing is changed or lost but the noise.
As simple as it sounds in theory, highly sophisticated technology is used in all Dolby NR systems to ensure their unique combination of effective noise reduction and freedom from side effects.
Dolby B-type Noise Reduction
Dolby B-type noise reduction is the original Dolby system designed for consumer tape recorders. It is inlcuded in all but the least expensive cassette machines today, and is used in the preparation of the vast majority of prerecorded cassettes. It is also incorporated in many stereo VHS videocassette recorded to improve their linear audio tracks and, in a modified form, in Dolby Surround decoders. Dolby B-type provides 10 dB of noise reduction at the higher frequencies where tape hiss predominates.
Dolby C-type Noise Reduction
Dolby C-type noise reduction was developed to improve the cassette medium still further by providing twice the tape hiss reduction (20 dB) of Dolby B-type. It is offered along with Dolby B-type in a variety of mid-range and premium cassette decks and players. Dolby C-type is also used in many professional videocassette recorders.
Dolby S-type Noise Reduction
Intoduced in 1990, Dolby S-type is based upon the principles of the professional Dolby SR (Spectral Recording) process. It not only provides still more tape hiss reduction (24 dB), but also reduces low-frequency noise by 10 dB. Thus, it permits recording high-level signals at the frequency extremes more accurately and cleanly. In listening tests conducted during 1995 it compared very favorably with compact disc recordings, with most listeners judging the quality of Dolby S-type encoded tapes as comparable with or in some cases superior to the playback quality of the CD. Dolby S-type is steadily gaining momentum and is being incorporated first in state-of-the-art decks for the most discerning listeners.
Dolby HX Pro
Not a noise reduction system, Dolby HX Pro makes it possible to record loud musical passages with fewer high-frequency losses and less distortion. It is available in better cassette decks and is also widely used by the recording industry to improve the quality of prerecorded cassetes, through its process of reducing the effects of tape saturation. As no encoding of the signal takes place, no playback decoding circuitry is required to realize the benefits of Dolby HX Pro.
TAPE DECK MAINTENANCE
The single most important thing you can do to maintain top performance is to keep head clean and regularly demagnetized.
Rather than using one of those dodgy cassette type demagnetizers, I have been using one of the wand type demag units for the past 15 years. I find that regular usage coupled with the use of good quality cassettes helps to keep my decks in good working condition.
A wand-type demagnetizer. An essential tool for cassette deck maintenance.
Regular head cleaning is also recommended. Around about every forty to fifty hours is recommended. There are two types of head cleaners currently available;
- Wet-type head cleaners. These types are adequate for the task in hand but the pads need to be replaced every two to three times after use.
- Dry-type head cleaners. These head cleaners are the spawn of the devil himself. They work by friction and with prolonged usage they can cause great damage to the heads. You have been warned
A better way of cleaning heads is to use isopropyl alcohol and a foam swab and do it by hand, just be careful not to get any on the pinch roller as the rubber will very quickly perish.
In addition to my many other recorders, I am also the owner of mid '60's Tandberg reel-to-reel recorder. This is just a domestic recorder with a built in amplifier and speaker.
Although I have no real use for it, I like to too keep for curio purposes and am currently looking for some tapes to play on it.
View of my classic Tandberg Series 82 (in production 1962-1968)
Mick Evans 1999-2001
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