Techniques for working with Hurst Models' |
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Etched Brass components and sides... Hurst Models produce a variety of conversion, detailing kits and detailing parts to enhance and adapt off the shelf models of coaching stock produced by Lima, Hornby and Replica Railways. The kits rely heavily on brass sides used as overlays to convert various vehicles to new types, including NPCCS, Royal Saloons, Departmentals, catering and research vehicles. A particular favourite of mine is the IRIS conversion pack for a Hornby Class 110 DMU vehicle. The range includes transfers and super detailing parts too, for EMUs and electric traction.
Intended primarily for Modern Image Modellers, kits are well presented with quality instructions, superb brass etchings and some castings. Because Hurst Models has a policy of not duplicating parts produced by other suppliers, many parts are not included if they can be sourced from other manufacturers. Modellers interested in modelling RES vehicles: namely fixed formations of Super GUV and Super BG vehicles with Propelling Control Vehicles can convert Lima GUV and 64ft MK1 models using Hurst Models' conversion kits. A Super BG conversion requires a Replica Railways 57ft MK1 BG model as a basis and a set of Replica Railways B4 bogies.
To model a Super GUV, use a Lima GUV base model. Source a set of Commonwealth bogies to enhance the model further and enjoy a simple conversion project. PCV and Super BG conversions require brass rolling of the sides supplied in the Hurst kit as well as glazing work. They are more involved but within most modellers skill levels. The ideal donor coach is a Replica Railways or Bachmann MK1. Novice modellers may wish to start with a Super GUV conversion which also uses etched brass sides complete with roller shutter doors. The sides are flat on a GUV vehicle, so no brass rolling is required to build this model. Windows in a Super GUV are plated over so glazing of the model is not necessary. It is advisable to work up to the more complex conversions such as the MK3b BFO or some of the research vehicles. Etched brass is ideal for replacement coach sides and components used to rebuild ready to run models. Some of Hurst Models' parts simply enhance the model or correct hitherto inaccurate features. For example, the air conditioning units on Hornby MK4 coaches and detailing parts for the Replica Railways 57foot BG. Some etched brass components are complex requiring some degree of folding, rolling or sub assembly. Because brass etching is done as large sheets that hold a number of individual frets each fret holds parts in place by narrow half-etched tabs that may be cut with sharp scissors. File off the etched tabs carefully, ensuring that etches are supported to prevent distortion. Cleaning and preparation of etched components is vital to ensure neat and clean assembly. Fibreglass pencils or sticks are used to remove tarnish from both surfaces of brass and other metal components. For example, equal attention should be given to both detail and reverse of brass coach sides to ensure an efficient bond with the base model. Roughened surfaces provide a key to enable adhesives to achieve their maximum bonding efficiency. Just don't make any mistakes with fitting sides or parts, glue is unforgiving and always sticks hardest where it’s not wanted. Fold lines half-etched into sub assemblies are there to guide the guide the modeller. Fold lines are located on the inside of a fold unless the kit instructions suggest otherwise. A tiny fillet of solder applied to the inside of a fold will add strength to larger items like bogie frames and underframe kits.
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Getting Brass Sides to Stick... Choose your adhesives carefully, superglues are not suitable for coach conversions using brass sides. Superglue will not allow the time to adjust the sides to get the fit right. The bond is brittle and prone to fracture when placed under load.Epoxy resin based glues such as Araldite and Devcon bond more efficiently and are slightly flexible when set that allows some resistence to fracture. Five minute types will allow time for adjustment and parts can be held together with clothes pegs. Glue squeezed from around joins will act as a filler, saving a filling stage in the building process. Step 1: Dismantle your donor model completely, saving bogies and other components for future use. Place the underframe to one side and discard the glazing. With a Swan Morton No.4 handle fitted with a curved No. 23 blade, remove all raised detail from the sides of the coach and the vestibule ends too, keeping only the detail seen on your chosen prototype i.e. coach lighting jumper cables located at the coach ends. Step 2: Remove the brass sides from the fret, noting the half-etched lines on the reverse side. On Super BGs gently score along them so the detail side has a representation of window blanks used to plate over the windows. Note also that the top of the etched roller shutter doors is etched through so the top may be folded in with a little care. Gently open out the holes provided for handrails and carefully roughen the reverse face with a coarse grade of wet and dry paper to provide a key for adhesives. In the case of MK1 based stock, place each brass side onto a thick wad of newspaper and roll a slight curve into them to match the profile of the model. A dowel of approximately 20mm diameter is ideal for this job. Any slight over rolling is not a bad thing, but under-rolling the sides will make them difficult to fit. On MK2 and MK3 coaches a curve is required in the bottom edge of the coach side, i.e the tumblehome. This can be rolled in using a 10mm dowel. Step 3: Offer up your freshly rolled sides to the coach body firstly to check that no remaining detail stands proud and mark in the windows and roller shutter doors (if applicable). You may notice on the Super BG kit that original doors coincide with the etched roller shutter doors. Make use of the moulded door lines as a guide to cutting the top slot to accept the top of the roller shutter doors. Avoid drilling and cutting away plastic much beyond the door lines and do not damage the cantrail rainstrip in any way. Step 4: Other conversion kits such as the High Speed Track Recording Coach or the MK3 conversions require the cutting away of the sides to clear the new windows. Offer up the new brass sides as a dry run to check the clearances. Ensurethat you leave a sufficient rebate around the inside of each widow to attach new glazing. Step 5: Once satisfied with the fit of replacement sides, prepare some two-part epoxy adhesive on a piece of scrap card. Carefully coat one side with adhesive and swiftly move the side into place. The advantage of this type of adhesive is it allows a few minutes to adjust the side into place. Secure with old clothes pegs until the glue has set. Devcon, Plastic Padding "Super Steel" and Araldite Rapid will not allow you much time beyond five minutes for adjustment. Any glue which squeezes from around the etch at the ends may be used as a filler. Any squeezed onto the roof must be removed before it sets! Repeat the process on the other side. Step 6: Before adding other detail, clean off any excess glue from the sides and ends of the coach. Use a finer grade of wet and dry paper, for example 800 to 1200 to smooth off the join at the end of the body. Rather than re-use the rubberised corridor connections provided with the Replica Railways MK1 models, for example, consider the use of white metal castings from FourMost Models. Glazing may be fitted after completing the livery. An option is to avoid using glue to secure glazing. Double sided sticky tape is more effective and will not damage the model through spillage or drips. Ideal glazing material is acetate sheet, thicker sections are advisable i.e. 10thou that will not warp or bow inwards. Contact Hurst
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