Simple Rail Plans
Supplies Needed:
1.5 inch PVC (Thick so it won't break when you grind)
10 ft long 2x4
Two 2 ft long piece of scrap wood
2" (or longer) screws
Hammer
Drill
Building Instructions:
1. Drill holes in the top part of the pipe (At least 5 holes spaced evenly- and NOT all the way through!)
2. Take the screws and screw the pipe down into the edge of the 2x4
3. Screw the other wood into the base of the 2x4 at each end. This provides lateral support.
What it looks like when finished:
A grinding bar like this works great with plastic plates, but metal
will slide fine as well. Metal pipes will last longer, but are harder to
drill and more expensive.
Another possibility is to use the metal rails found on top of fences.
This will allow you to easily connect several rails making one long rail.
All you need to do it cut it down a little bit so that the tapered end
overhangs your 2x4 by 2"- 4" and the other end is flush or slightly
overhanging. It's also good to secure the rail from underneath to keep
the grinding surface nice and smooth. Just use a 1/2" x 4" bolt
with a 1/2" nut at each end. Drill a 1/2" hole through the 2x4
and rail about 2" in from the end. As long as you can get your fingers
in far enough to get the nut on the bolt (inside the rail) you're set.
If you get really creative, you can attach multiple rails together.
This will allow you to practice transfers and intersting variations. All
you need to do is build two seperate rails, and attach them together with
your screws.
Alternativly, you can go the route that I prefer-- Draw up a picture
of the rail you want and take it to the builder. Have all the specs you
want ready, including length, pipe width, etc. It may also help if you
could cut out a picture from one of the skating magazines out there. My
most important suggestion is to make sure the extended base (to prevent
it from toppling) is flat. I twisted my ankle and had to sit out for over
a month because I landed on one of those supports. Needless to say the
hacksaw was brought out and I no longer have that problem! Something like
this should run well under $100. (My 10' rail cost $70)
Another Cheap Rail Plan
This rail design works really well- it is extremely stable, and pretty
easy to lift. I'd recommend anyone on a budget to try this.
Supplies needed:
*2" wide x 12' long Galvanized Steel Pipe (~$11.00)
2" x 4" x 12' Wood (~$4.00)
2" x 6" x 12' Wood (~$5.00)
(20) 4" common nails (~$1.50)
(or you can use liquid nails all the way down)
(4) 3-4" wood screws ** with 3/8" phillips heads ** (~$.75)
* A steel pole is prefered, but hard to drill- PVC is an alternative,
but it's may be too slick to get a good grinding sensation.
Building Instructions:
1. Drill 4 -5 holes in the steel pipe that are big enough for your
screw's post to pass into, but not so big that the screw's head can
pass through it. Space the holes about 2" from each end and aboout
4' intervals. Since I purchased mine from a fencing company, they drilled
the holes for me.
2. On one side only, enlarge the holes with the drill large enough
to pass the whole screw head through.
3. Using the 4" common nails, Take the 2" x 4" x 12' and mount it length
wise with the 2" x 6" x 12' making a 'T' shape ( see diagram).
I recommend nailing every foot, but more would also improve the
rail's durability.
4. To mount the rail, you need to place it on the top edge of the 2"
x 6" (see diagram). Then, using a screwdriver, mark out where
the holes of the pipe are. Using the marks as a guide, drill holes to start
your screws, or use the common nails to get your screws started. Use the
wood screws to mount the pipe.
What it looks like when finished:
Metal Rail Plans
These are some awesome plans for a metal rail. Its sturdy, will last for
ever, and is easy to assemble and disassemble. (all materials can be bought
at Home Depot or a home supply store and all can be found in the plumbing
department.)
Materials (will cost around $50 total)
One 10 foot 1-1/4in threaded steel plumbing pipe
Three 1 foot 1-1/4in threaded steel plumbing pipes
One 1-1/4in steel elbow joint
One 1-1/4in steel T joint
Two 1-1/4in steel caps
Building Instructions
1. Screw the elbow to one end of the 10 foot pipe.
2. Screw the top of one of the 1 foot pipes to the elbow.
3. Screw the T joint to the bottom of the 1 foot pipe.
4. Screw the other two 1foot pipes to both ends of the T joint.
5. Screw the two caps to the ends of the 1foot pipes to keep the rail from wabling.
What it looks like when finished:
