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As in Saigon, streets in Hanoi are dominated by two-wheeled traffic. The similarity ends there, however, as decidedly more bikes are pedal-powered, traffic signals are the norm and pedestrians cross at intersections. The numerous parks and lakes, and the wide, uncluttered sidewalks in the French Quarter make Hanoi pedestrian-friendly. In fact, Hanoi is actually a pleasant place to walk.

For further distances, the most romantic
way to get around town, and certainly the most nostalgic, is by cyclo, the Vietnamese version of a pedicab. Particularly for short distances, cyclos are an inexpensive and pleasant means of transportation. Most one-way fares within downtown can be negotiated for 10,000 VND or less (about 65 cents). A typical hourly rate is US$1-2.

As in
Saigon, many tourists, and even expats have reported difficulties with cyclo drivers. The most common problem is that you will agree on a price, or a driver will tell you to pay what you want, then upon arrival at your destination, he will insist the fare is two, three or even 10 times that amount. These guys are well-practiced at this. They will not accept the dollar or two you hold out and will become beligerent, frequently attracting a crowd. To add to the problem, fewer cyclo drivers in Hanoi
speak English.

The fact is that the vast majority of cyclo drivers are honest and hard-working men who can be a great source of information and even serve as impromptu interpreters. In fact, the drivers themselves are the ones who tell us all the tricks and scams their fellow drivers pull and how to avoid them. If you find a good driver, don't let him go. He will be delighted to meet you at an agreed-upon time later that day or even the next day.

To avoid the problem, always agree on your destination and price in advance. If hiring a driver for several hours, agree on a start and end time as well as the total price. Especially when your driver does not speak English, write down the destination on a piece of paper and ask him to write the amount. The honest ones will be impressed (it's their idea!), the less honest on
es will grudgingly agree; if not, find another driver. Either way, you'll avoid a scene and a lot of hard feelings.

Metered taxis are another option. You should have no problem hailing one unless it's raining. Meter drop is 14,000 VND (US$1) for the first kilometer and 1,000 VND each additional 200m. Tipping cab drivers is not customary or expected; however, these guys never seem to have any change.

Bicycle is an excellent way to get around town. A good place to find a bike is on Cau Go Street. Typical price is US$1/day. You can also rent a motorcycle (Honda Bonus 125 CC or Dream II) for US$7-$10/day. Finding a bike in good condition can be a challenge. Remember, you are required to have an international driver's license with a motorcycle endorsement to operate a bike over 50cc.