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As in Saigon, streets in Hanoi are dominated
by two-wheeled traffic. The similarity ends there, however, as decidedly
more bikes are pedal-powered, traffic signals are
the norm and pedestrians cross at
intersections. The numerous parks and lakes, and the wide, uncluttered
sidewalks in the French Quarter make Hanoi pedestrian-friendly. In fact,
Hanoi is actually a pleasant place to walk.

For further distances, the most romantic
way to get around town, and
certainly the most nostalgic, is by cyclo, the Vietnamese version of a
pedicab. Particularly for short distances, cyclos are an inexpensive and
pleasant means of transportation. Most one-way fares within downtown can be
negotiated for 10,000 VND or less (about 65 cents). A typical hourly rate is
US$1-2.
As in Saigon, many tourists, and even
expats have reported difficulties with cyclo drivers. The most common
problem is that you will agree on a price, or a driver will tell you to pay
what you want, then upon arrival at your destination, he will insist the
fare is two, three or even 10 times that amount. These guys are
well-practiced at this. They will not accept the dollar or two you hold out
and will become beligerent, frequently attracting a crowd. To add to the
problem, fewer cyclo drivers in Hanoi
speak English.
The fact is that the vast majority of cyclo drivers are honest and
hard-working men who can be a great source of information and even serve as
impromptu interpreters. In fact, the drivers themselves are the ones who
tell us all the tricks and scams their fellow drivers pull and how to avoid
them. If you find a good driver, don't let him go. He will be delighted to
meet you at an agreed-upon time later that day or even the next day.
To avoid the problem, always agree on your destination and price in advance.
If
hiring a driver for several hours, agree on a start and end time as
well as the total price. Especially when your driver does not speak English,
write down the destination on a piece of paper and ask him to write the
amount. The honest ones will be impressed (it's their idea!), the less
honest ones will grudgingly agree; if not, find another driver. Either way,
you'll avoid a scene and a lot of hard feelings.
Metered taxis are another option. You should have no problem hailing one
unless it's raining. Meter drop is 14,000 VND (US$1) for the first kilometer
and 1,000 VND each additional 200m. Tipping cab drivers is not customary or
expected; however, these guys never seem to have any change.
Bicycle is an excellent way to get around town. A good place to find a bike
is on Cau Go Street. Typical price is US$1/day. You can also rent a
motorcycle (Honda Bonus 125 CC or Dream II) for US$7-$10/day. Finding a bike
in good condition can be a challenge. Remember, you are required to have an
international driver's license with a motorcycle endorsement to operate a
bike over 50cc.
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