Always prep your miniatures before you begin painting them. Using a small file, remove any of the flash or mold lines from the miniatures. These appear as a fine raised line going around the miniature, caused by metal seeping out between the two halves of the mold. If you don't remove these lines, they will become very evident once you've painted your miniature (especially if you dry brush).

• Removing old paint from miniatures
• Pinning models together
• Conversions
• Attaching miniature to base
• Priming

Alternate priming method

Question: I am very new to the mini painting hobby and have just started to remove the mold lines on my plastic minis. I have been using an x-acto knife and dragging it gently across the mini to remove the line. It works ok, but I was wondering if the flat area I am leaving will show up once painted. I am also having problems with removing the attachment nib on some models where it is on a helmet (GW Bret archers). It seems that as I remove the line/nib the helmet brim gets very thin and somewhat out of "round". Will painting bring this out or will the primer tend to even some of this out? - Chuck C.

Answer: The best way to remove mold lines is with a small hobby file. With the file you can get rid of the flat area caused by the knife. You don't need to buy a whole set of files. All you really need is a half round (round on 1 side, flat on the other). It's what I use. It may also help with the 'out of round' condition. As for the primer filling in any problem areas, you don't want this to happen. If the primer is thick enough to do this, it will obscure the detail on the mini. If there are areas that are really bad, you can try adding two part epoxy putty as a filler, and shaping it before it dries.

There are several methods you could use to strip paint from miniatures. The method I've used successfully involved the use of Pine Sol. I haven't used it on plastic miniatures, but I have tried it with miniatures that had plastic shields and bases. The Pine Sol did not harm the plastic, but it did loosen the glue holding the plastic and metal parts together.

• Pine Sol - I used it at about 1/3 strength and it took a few hours of soaking (no need for overnight) and some brushing with an old tooth brush, but the paint came off 100%. The clear coat I sprayed my figs with made it more difficult, but definitely do-able. I even tried full strength Pine Sol. It seemed to work a little faster, but I'm not sure it's worth it. Of course Pine Sol is pretty cheap.
  One word of caution would be to wear gloves. I didn't at first and it really irritated my skin which dried up and flaked off a few days later. I'm also a little hesitant to try this with plastic minis so I can't vouch for that. But for lead, it works great. - Damon C.

• Nail Polish Remover - Soak the model (metal) in a cup of nail polish remover for a few minutes. take a tooth brush or a soft wire brush to it under running water and most paint will come right off. - Brander R.

• Oven cleaner! - I use oven clearner to remove my paint. After 30 minutes, the model(if lead) is ready for action(painting that is). For plastic minis, I leave it overnight... I forgot one of my minis for a week in it and it's still good! - Francois L.

• Brake Fluid - I have found that soaking plastic (as well as metal) miniatures overnight in brake fluid is an excellent way to loosen the paint up enough to allow for easy removal with an old toothbrush.- Jason P.

I've recently started a lot of conversion work with my Ork army, and have discovered that a 30/1000 drill bit makes the perfect sized hole for pinning with wire from a small paper clip. I also pin my riders to their mounts, and the pin can be inserted into a dowel or paintbrush handle while painting the rider. - anonymous

Question: I was wondering how to make a conversion. I want to get an Orlock heavy with a lascannon. Do you have any suggestions for me??? I'd appreciate any help - Louis B.

Answer: You'll need to get all the pieces needed (weapon, character, etc.). Next, prepare the weapon and model by removing any unnecessary parts. Test fit the parts, and then glue with a two part epoxy (takes a few minutes to set, but does a good job filling gaps).

For an orlock with a lascannon, try an orlock with another heavy weapon. Cut the barrel off the old weapon, as well as from a lascannon. Add the lascannon barrel to the orlock mini (pin the barrel and model together with a small brass rod).

Note: The page on conversions is here! Check it out. Conversions!.

Question: What do you use to fill in the slot on the base of a figurine? I have been told that autobody putty works and something called milliput. What do you personally use and what type of store did you get it from?

Answer: I use two-part epoxy putty. You can find it in any hardware store. It's used for plumbing repairs. There are several brands, but I've always just used whatever I can find at the time. Basically it looks like two sticks of clay. Cut off an equal amounts from each, and mix them together. Then roll out a strip and place in the slot (from below). Finally, push the mini into the slot. It sets in a few minutes, and dries rock hard in a day. It's also great for filling in gaps on multi-piece miniatures. You can also use Milliput, which is harder to find in the US. One source is from MicroMark, at www.micromark.com

Apply some sort of primer to your miniatures prior to painting. Spray primer works well, and is also quick. Don't apply the primer too thick. You don't want to obscure any details. Several thin coats of primer works better than 1 thick coat. I suggest using a white primer, unless your trying to achieve a very dark colored mini, then use a black primer. Be sure to follow any directions printed on the can when using a sprey primer. Although there are several inexpensive brands of grey auto primer, I've always stuck with the primer made specifically for miniatures. Several brands are available, although I currently prefer to use the primer manufactured by The Armory.

• Alternate priming method:

One thing you must try is priming with a white wash. My main colors are white and red, so a white base is must for me. The cool thing about white-washing is that you can't accidentally over prime your fig. It puts just enough paint on the fig without filling important cracks and crevasses.- Matthew C.