TIPS AND RECIPES
WAXOYL
Take a � kilogram of paraffin wax or candle making wax and grind it up with a cheese grater. Soak it in 2 liters of mineral spirits/ Paraffin/ Kerosene/ lamp oil/ Diesel until all of the wax is dissolved. It might take a couple of weeks. Stirring will cause most of the wax to dissolve, but soaking should take care of the rest, heating the mixture in hot water (no open flames) will add in the quick dissolving of the wax. Generally try to dissolve as much wax as the mineral spirits/ kerosene/ paraffin/lamp oil/ Diesel will hold. Pour one liter of mineral oil/ non-detergent motor oil into the dissolved mixture. If the mixture is too thick for spraying you can thin it further with more mineral spirits until it is of a spray-able consistency.
Application:
Buy any cheap engine spray gun at your local auto or tool store that carries air tools. You can also use a garden insecticide sprayer, although it will really make you tired. Rent or borrow an air compressor. If possible elevate your car so that you can get at the underside. (Remember to chock both front and rear wheels as you are going to work underneath the car.) First wash your truck's chassis, both inside and out, to get rid of all the mud, oil etc. Spray the solution onto the underside of the chassis and into every little hole, crack and crevice. Make sure you push the tip into the chassis to spray the inside of the chassis. Let the excess drip off. You will find that the solution will blend into all cracks and chips and if the chassis is scratched it will flow, covering the scratch. If there is existing rust the solution will be soaked up by the rust and thereby creating an oxygen free coating stopping the further rusting/corroding of the surface.
Repeat the above once a year if you live in an area where the roads are sprayed with salt. Once every two to three years if staying inland where it is dry and salt free.
The above information was received from the LRO list where various people contributed their own recipe. Most of the recipes was essentially the same varying only on which oil to use and discussing the pro's and con's of Mineral spirits/paraffin/ Kerosene/ lamp oil vs. Diesel etc.
ALIGNING THE CLUTCH
Here is the method I used to align the clutch plate:
One broom handle. (It fitted very snug and tight in the bush that's in the center of the flywheel)
One roll of insulation tape.
Roll the insulation tape on the broom handle till it fits very tight into the splines of the clutch plate. Put clutch plate in, use "home made spline shaft", align clutch and fit.
Hand throttle.
One of the benefits of having a diesel engine is that you don't need a choke. So I decided to keep the choke but to "convert" it into a hand throttle. All that was needed was to get a cable with a fitting at the end that will fit the bottom of the accelerator linkage on the diesel pump. That was quite easy as I used to drive a VW and the clutch cable never lasted more than 10 000km. The fitting on the pedal was just right for the fitting needed on the diesel pump. I cut the clutch cable to the correct length, took a cable block and screw the choke cable in one side and the clutch cable in the other side. Mounted the choke lever back and now I can pull out the hand throttle and relax while the Landy maintains a fairly constant speed on the level.
Fixing the CB radio.
I didn't want to drill holes into the bodywork to fit the CB as I want to be able to remove the CB and transfer it to another vehicle at a moments notice, so what I did was buy some Velcrotm , use normal glue and glue the one side to the back of the CB and the other side to the body panel. (I fitted mine just below the front seat upright against the seat box, so the CB is under my legs within easy reach.)
Fitting new window channeling.
There are various documents describing how to remove the top of the door, how to install the windows etc. I have yet to find somebody who tells me in what sequence to replace the window once the new channeling has been fitted and new window rubbers inserted. Well this is what I found after breaking three side windows.
First install the bottom channeling. Drill new holes into the frame and insert the small self tapping screws. (I used the "counter sunk" type. I did not screw the rubber with the channeling as the rubber fits very tight and snug and is laying down into the channeling. The same with the side channeling.
Now comes the really tricky part. Fit the top channeling with its rubber onto the window. (still outside) Then insert the bottom of the side window into the bottom channeling already installed in the door. You'll have to insert it at a slight angle from the inside. Once the bottom of the glass is in the bottom channeling the glass with the channeling on top can be pushed into the frame. Now you need to drill the holes through the rubber, channeling and top door frame. The screws go through the rubber (keeping it also from falling out), through the channeling and into the frame.
I bought 15mm X 15mm X 1.5mm channeling from the local aluminium supplier. It does require the channeling to be forced about 2-4mm open to enable the glass to slide and not being pinched by the rubber, but it will never rust, looks good and is much cheaper than buying the channeling from the agents. The window rubber I bought from the local truck supplier store. They call it "window channeling" and it's slightly bigger than the original LR rubbers, but again much cheaper. Hope it helps!
Rust converter
Rust apparently is an advanced surface etching and in theory prepares the surface nicely for painting. The oxidation process however needs to be stopped before painting. A nice way of doing so is to use phosphoric acid which very effectively halts the oxidisation of the metal (rust), and converts the rusted surface into a very nicely keyed, well prepared, paintable surface. Phosphoric acid is sold in paint shops as 'Rust Buster', 'Rust Convertor' and such like, at 10 or 20 X the price of a litre drum of the stuff from a chemicals company.To make it work even better, if you buy the phosphoric acid, mix in some water. 20% water seems to work like a dream. Just don't leave it in the can for too long, as it will cause the can to deteriorate.
All the above was found on the LR-SA mailing list with Paul Oxley one of the biggest contributors.