TRANS-PENNINE EXPRESS BAR AND PUB CRAWL -
a trip you can do yourself!The Trans-Pennine railway line is, perhaps, unique for the Real Ale enthusiast as three stations on the route boast real station buffets with genuine Real Ale on tap. As there are no cheap day return tickets direct to Dewsbury, you need to buy two tickets one to Manchester, and one from Manchester to Dewsbury the total cost is just over £15.
On Saturday 10th April, four intrepid souls departed Kidsgrove railway station on the 09.16, arriving at Manchester Piccadilly at 10.03. Thirty minutes later the 10.33 Trans-Pennine Express was boarded for the 40 minute journey to Dewsbury.
At approx. 11.16 the four alighted at Dewsbury station and crossed the overbridge to the "West Riding Refreshment Rooms" on platform one. The choice was from York Brewery Bug Bitter (4.6% abv), Ossett Brewery Laughing Gravy
(5.0%) and Silver King (4.3%), Oldershaw Brewery Harrowby Bitter (3.6%), Black Sheep BB (3.8%) and Timothy Taylor's Golden Best (3.5%). A half of each was imbibed, and they were all in excellent condition. Lunch was also taken as the aroma of home cooked food was too tempting.The "West Riding Refreshment Rooms have been very well restored in line with the original station architecture, and retain man' original fixtures and fittings.
A door opens directly onto platform one, so it was handy when, at a few minutes to one, the beer party made a dash for a train which had just arrived. A salutory lesson was learned when the party realised that they had boarded a local stopping train which was 5 minutes earlier than the 13.03 Trans-Pennine express. At Mirlees the twin track quadrupled and a smart maroon and cream coloured train sailed past them
"Who'd have thought it" someone was heard to remark "the earlier train gets there later!"
Huddersfield's "Head of Steam", situated in one end of the magnificent station buildings, was the next port of call. Comprising four rooms, the "Head of Steam" presented an excellent choice of beers, if bit pricey! Original Bill Tidy cartoons adorn the walls in one of the rooms, alongside railway artifacts. Everything is for sale - if you can afford it!
Outside, the true splendour of the Grade I listed station can be appreciated. The debate was whether the pillars were doric or ionic. "Ironic," someone was heard to remark, and the party ventured on to the Good Beer Guide listed "Slubber's Arms", approx. 15 minutes walk away.
This tastefully restored, curiously angled, friendly street corner local, was well worth the visit as it stocks the full Timothy Taylor's range, plus a guest beer. A "Slubber" is a textile occupation, a bit like a Saggar Maker in the pots.
About the same distance from the station, but in the opposite direction, is the "Rat and Ratchet"; a large restored public house which has suffered an unfortunate name change. Here the choice is from 15 Real Ales, plus traditional ciders.
Already an hour late due to visiting the two Huddersfield pubs, the party carefully selected a local train which stopped at Marsden. On this journey the four encountered the inevitable "train nutter" a lady of mature years from Liverpool. She was returning from Leeds after going there to place a bet - on Grand National day! She had an obsession with the windows and kept opening them as other passengers were shutting them! Thankfully, the thirteen minute journey to Marsden was soon over, and fond farewells were exchanged as if old friends were parting forever.
From Marsden station it is a delightful downhill stroll, past the babbling river, and over the bridge at the bottom to the "Riverhead Brewery Tap". This homebrew pub had six of its seven listed beers on, and they were in fine form. Through a glass panel, the brewery itself can be viewed down the cellar steps, and tours may be arranged if you ask for owner Phil Holdsworth.
Marsden celebrates "Cuckoo Day" in April, when the town acknowledges that spring has arrived. Once a wall was built around a Cuckoo to retain spring all the year round, but it escaped because the wall was built "nowt but a course too low!"
The "delightful downhill stroll" became a leg-aching climb back up to the station, but soon a train hailed into view. Shortly the four were travelling out of Yorkshire through the famous Standedge tunnel en-route to Stalybridge.
The "Original Station Buffet Bar" dates from 2nd May 1885, when the MS&L and LNW railways opened a new large station. Conversion of the existing "living" accommodation, together with tactful refurbishment of the main buffet bar and toilets in early 1997 lends an original ambience to the rooms. Up to eight Real Ales are available and traditional Lancashire fayre may be enjoyed. Try the black peas, unless you prefer a quiet evening!
Hopelessly behind schedule, the intrepid four boarded a train back through the desolate East end of Manchester, in time for a quick one at the Castle on Oldham Street before the last train to Kidsgrove at 20.37.
A brilliant day out - and no traffic jams! N.B. Check train times - Sunday services are very restricted.
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