To the East of Manchester, in the foothills of the Pennines, lie the secret villages of Delph, Diggle and Dobcross. The moors are seen at every turn, but the villages and their 18th century stone cottages and workshops are unknown to tourists, although scenes in the Richard Gere film "Yanks" were shot in Dobcross. The itinerary is:
Day return from Stoke 09.05, Kidsgrove 09.16, or Congleton 09.22 to Macclesfield, arr. at 09.30 From Macclesfield (staying on the train) we wiU use Manchester Wayfarer tickets (bought in advance £6.60) which allow unlimited train, tram and bus travel for one day in an area stretching from Macclesfield to Wigan, and from Warrington to Greenfield, which is our destination. Arrive Piccadlly at 10.03, for the Trans Pennine Express at 10.28, to Stalybridge (arr. 10.41). Stalybridge Station Buffet has a wonderful bar, but we are too early and have 30 minutes to enjoy an excellent breakfast.
Depart Stalybridge 11.10, arrive Greenfield 11.20. Turn left out of the station to the bus stop for the 427 at 11.40 to Dobcross Square.
The Swan is right by the bus stop. As you go in you will see that according to the front door you are now entering the King's Head. There used to be two pubs, but they were knocked into one a hundred years ago. On the April 'recce' there were seven beers on offer: Theakston's Mild and Best; four from the Phoenix Brewery in Heywood, and Moorhouse's Pendle Witch's Brew. The food is excellent, as the delicious smells will attest.
Leave the Swan at 12.15 or so for the short walk down the hill to the Woolpack (Keg Only), and at thc bus stop opposite catch the 355 (due approx. 12.30) for Delph. Remember that the Swan closes at 15.00, so we aim to get to Delph and back in time to try another couple of the Swan's pumps.
There are three pubs to visit in Delph: Bull's Head (Banks's and Marston's) - not yet tried; Swan (Lee's Bitter); White Lion (Thwaites' Bitter and Chairman's) - a particularly cosy pub. Arriving back at the Woolpack at 13.55, walk back up to the Swan - if the 427 is running late you'll get a ride to the Swan.
Eventually we will have to drag ourselves away, just before closing time, for the bus to the Diggle Hotel. This a very pleasant hotel, close to the portals of the Standedge railway and canal tunnels. If you skipped or missed lunch, don't worry: the Diggle Hotel serves food all day. The beers will probably be Tim Taylor's Golden Best and Landlord; Wadworth's 6X; Boddington's.
There are two more stunning pubs to visit I the Church Inn (adjoining the Saddleworth Brewery) and the Cross Keys - both in the back of beyond above Uppermill. From the Diggle Hotel it is a 30-minute walk along a lane to the Church Inn, and the first 15 minutes is uphill. A pleasant stroll!
At the Inn (food all day) you will find pump clips you have never seen before - it's a homebrew pub, and in April four of the seven beers were their own. There is also a cider pump. Coming out of the Church cross the road, slightly left, and you will find a footpath marked "To the Cross Keys". The next steps are obvious. The Cross Keys looks as though it might have been a farm at one time, but it is now run by John Willie Lees selling Mild, Bitter and Moonraker.
By now it will be about 17.30, and the next train from Greenfield is 18.17, and from the Cross Keys all hills are downhill. Anyone reaching Greenfield station with time in hand may wish to use the railway waiting room. It is called the Railway, and is just across the road:
John
Smith's (on handpump): Taylor's Golden Best and Landlord; Theakstons
Old Peculier.Dep. Greenfield 18.17, arr. Stalybridget 18.27. Visit the Buffet Bar eight handpumps plus Belgian bottles plus good simple pub food and cheerful service Mecca!
Leave Stalybridge whenever you like Last stopping train back to Congleton/Kidsgrove/Stoke dep Piccadilly at 20 37.
Waytarer Tickets must be bought in advance through Greater Manchester Passenger Transport Executive (GMPTE), 0161-228-7811, at £6.60 each. By post from: The Travelshops Manage 9 Portland Street, Piccadilly Garden Manchester, M60 1HX. CAMRA Potteries Branch Treasurer, Ken Lee, will make a bulk purchase of Wayfarers for any adventurers who pay him in advance. Call 01782-783713.
