"As stargazers we should practice what Lee Cains calls
'the serene art of visual observing.' We must learn to see with the mind as well
as the eye. This means really examining and contemplating the varied scenes
before us in the eyepiece. All deep-sky objects deserve at least 15 minutes of
your time. Glancing at an object once it's found and then rushing to another and
another is like reading only the Cliff's Notes of the world's great novels."
- James Mullaney |
5.3. Seeing and Transparency
AS MENTIONED ABOVE,
there is more to a deepsky object than meets the eye at the first glance. This
is to some extent caused by the atmosphere and also by the nature of human
perception.
The quality of the telescopic image, as far as this depends
upon the condition of the atmosphere, is known as astronomical seeing. When you
view an object at high powers under average seeing conditions, the image
shimmers and boils. The degree of disturbance can be estimated using the
Antoniadi scale. The severity of this shimmering changes from night to night and
sometimes from minute to minute. When the seeing is poor, a small telescope will
show twinkling stars which jump about playfully, but with a large aperture
telescope, the lateral motions will be averaged out resulting in a steady blob.
When a deep blue, breezy afternoon turns to a dark and clear
night, we have a night of high transparency. The dark sky and high contrast
afford ideal conditions for viewing faint stars and extended objects such as
galaxies and nebulae. High transparency and good seeing usually avoid one
another. The hazy summer doldrums often produce the best seeing and are
excellent for revealing double stars and planetary details.
5.4. Prolonged Observing
THE NATURE OF HUMAN
perception plays a significant role in deepsky observing. In our day-to-day
experience of the world we are used to seeing things easily. If something can't
quite be made out, our natural reaction is to move closer. But this is
impossible in astronomy. Instead, we have to get everything we can out of very
distant views. This means learning new visual skills that involve active,
concentrated effort. As you watch an object quiver and churn in the eyepiece,
unsuspected detail will flicker into view during brief moments of stability,
only to fade out for a while before being glimpsed again. The image of a
difficult object builds up rather slowly. First one detail is notice and fixed,
and you think there's nothing more to be seen. But after a few minutes another
detail becomes evident, then another. The skilled observer learns to remember
these good moments and ignore the rest, building up a gradual, integrated
picture of the object.
Related to this is the fact that the eye, like a camera, can
build up an image over time -- according to skilled observer Roger N Clarke. It
has been found experimentally that a faint image will build up towards
visibility for as long as six seconds. This may seem counter- intuitive, but
bear in mind that most of your visual experiences have been in bright light;
under these conditions the eye's "exposure time" is only about 1/10th
of a second. Furthermore, fixating on an object in daylight tends to make it
less visible. In fact, if the eye is held completely stationary, it becomes
completely unable to see anything! In the dark, however, things are different.
To make use of the eye's extended viewing capacity, you will
need to keep the image at the same spot on your retina; this helps explain why
bodily comfort is so essential for viewing faint objects. Fatigue and muscle
strain increase random eye movement. This does not, however, mean you have to
stare at the object. It is the physically non- tense but mentally alert approach
that succeeds on faint objects. If you use your right eye to observe, don't
close your left eye tightly. This places unnecessary strain upon the eye. Keep
it open and wear a eye-patch or cover your eye with a cupped hand.
5.5. Averted Vision
WHILE KEEPING THE
IMAGE on the same spot on the retina helps the image to build
up, looking directly at it will probably cause it to disappear! This is so
because the light then falls on the fovea centralis, a region packed with
bright-light receptors (cone cells) but fairly poor in dim-light receptors (rod
cells). The rods are concentrated around the edges of the retina. By looking
slightly away from a faint object, its light falls onto the edge of the retina
where it is picked up by the sensitive rod cells. This very important technique
is known as averted vision. Your eye is most sensitive to a faint object when
its image lies 8 to 16 degrees from the centre of your vision in the direction
of your nose. Almost as good a position is 6 to 12 degrees above your centre of
view. Never place the object to the right of centre in your right eye, or left
in your left eye the image is likely to fall on the retina's blind spot
and vanish altogether. See Inset 1 for a striking demonstration. Incidentally,
averted vision is not the way to look for colour in deepsky objects. The rod
cells do not respond to colour, whereas the cone cells do. You should thus look
directly at the object when examining it for colour.
5.6. Sketching
AN EXCELLENT WAY
to train yourself to see better is to make sketches. These don't have to be
works of art; the idea is to record details more conveniently than through
words. An open cluster requires no artistic talent whatsoever. To give you some
indoor practice, try making sketch copies of photos of open clusters. You may
want to enlarge the photo with a photocopier and then sketching it from a
distance.
When you sketch at the telescope, remember to note down the
date and time, instrument details, sky condition and the size of the field of
view. Also indicate on the sketch where north and east are. It is strongly
recommended that you sketch as much as possible. While you are making the
sketch, you are continually examining the object, paying close attention to
certain smaller details. This close scrutiny often results in the discovery of
hitherto unseen features. A sketch also serves as an excellent record of the
object you are studying. Detailed objects require lengthy descriptions that may
become confusing when read later. We all know the saying that a picture is worth
a thousand words.
5.7. Choice of Magnification
WHEN CHOOSING
the "best" magnification for an object, you must bear in mind that the
eye has very poor resolution in dim light. In bright light, the eye can resolve
detail finer than 1 arc minute, but can't make out features smaller than 20 arc
minutes when the illumination is about as dim as the dark-sky background in a
telescope. This means that details in a very faint object can be seen only if
they are magnified sufficiently. While a low-power eyepiece concentrates a faint
extended object's light and increases its apparent surface brightness (the
illumination of a given area on the retina), it does not enlarge it sufficiently
for clear resolution. Unlike a star, an extended source such as a galaxy or
nebula will grow dimmer as the magnification is increased. Such an object's
surface brightness is proportional to the area of the exit pupil. Thus, an
object viewed with an exit pupil 1mm in diameter has only 2 percent of the
surface brightness is has with a 7mm exit pupil.
As magnification is increased, the sky background grows dimmer
at the same rate that the object does, so the contrast remains the same. But
with higher magnifications, delicate structure is larger and hence more visible.
Faint stars are best seen at high magnification since the star's image remains
constant while the background grows dimmer, improving contrast. What all this
means is that it is wise to try a wide range of powers on any object. You may be
surprised by how much more you'll see with one than another. |